I recently bought some Wescott FJ400 battery powered strobes. I had trouble syncing them with my Z6. I called Wescott and was advised to turn off the electronic shutter in the camera and only use the manual shutter. I did this and the problem was solved. Now another problem has arisen. When I am shooting portraits in the manual mode all of my adjustments for proper exposure are replicated in the viewfinder. To give an example, the correct exposure for ambient light in the studio may be one fourth sec. at F4 everything looks and photographs great through the view finder. However, the correct exposure using the strobes is 1/100 sec at F/8. The resulting image is correct when the file is viewed. In the viewfinder, however, the image is so dark you cannot see the subject. I have obviously messed up a setting somewhere that allows me to view the image normally rather than at the correct setting for the strobe flash. Can anyone advise me as to how to correct this? Thanks in advance.
gilkar

David Busch - Nikon Z6 digital photography
While not a simple instruction book, it is comprehensive and easy to read. Ir also has a great index if you are looking for something specific, (like resetting bracketing). The first few chapters go over the basics in detail, and then the following chapters get specific on how to customize your camera for your exact needs. I would not be without mine. If you do not wish to make the investment, there are thousands of how to's on You Tube

Thanks for the link - I have a question about noise. I do a lot of high school sports action. We all know many highs school filelds are not well lit for night photography. In my situations, I find I am always shooting at high ISO's. When I switched from DSLR's to mirrorless (Z6's), I was amazed at how little noise I saw at the higher ISO's, (notice I did not say "no noise"). It was more than acceptable for the work I do. Now I am having a GAS attack and am thinking about upgrading to the Z9. For those of you who already have and use this camera would this be a wise move given the parameters i have described? I always welcome any advice

Smile ;-) I never thought of that

Phillips replaced my machine, it took them 9 months to do it. I had to use the old one during that time. I received no info about returning or what to do with the old one.

I always mount the lens not the camera. I also use a monopod which relives a lot of the weight when I use the camera lens combo. The strange thing is there is no problem like this with the kit lens. Of course, that is a direct mount, no FTZ.
The adapter is snug to the camera. The weak point appears to be where the lens bayonets to the FTZ. Just a very slight wiggle although I believe it may be enough to allow those ball bearing contacts to slip off the FTZ contacts. Like I said, the situation corrects itself on the next exposure. Since I have the lens mounted on the monopod I think that the movement is caused by my pressing the shutter button. The downward pressure seem to be just enough to cause the miniscule movement of the lens to the right.

Thankyou for your insights. I will check the exif files, (why didn't I think of that?), and the contacts.

Thank you for that information I will contact them

Thanks for that tip I'll check it. If it is too big there's probably no way to correct it.

Thanks for your reply. The lens is locked in but problem still exists

I am not sure I will check that. Thanx for you quick response!

I do quite a bit of high school sports action photography. I have found that my Tamron 70-200 lens works very well, (most of the time), with my Z-6 mirrorless cameras. However, from day one the lens has moved slightly in the FTZ adapter. I queried you tube about this problem and the suggested fix was to check the screws on the back the lens and on the adapter to make sure they were tight. I did that and all the screws seemed to be as tight as they could be. However the lens still moves, (rotates), slightly. This movement does not affect the focus. It DOES seem to affect the exposure. Every so often the normal exposure will jump to extreme over exposure. I attributed this to the lens losing touch with the contact pins where it mates with the FTZ adapter. The problem is not continuous and seems to correct itself on the next exposure. However, it continues on and off throughout the shoot. I'd be interested if any hoggers have encountered a similar problem and what you did to correct it. At this point I am thinking I either need a new lens or a new adapter. Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

I owned a couple of them back in the day. My first one ran off an ever ready battery That hung from my shoulder. One battery usually lasted for a few weddings before having to be replaced. My second one was a Honeywell similar to the one pictured but it had internal rechargeable batteries. I used them in conjunction with a 2-1/4 x 3-1/4 roll film back on a miniature speed graphic camera that gave me 8 shots on a 120 roll of VPS film. In those days if I shot more than 40 images, (5 rolls), it was a lot! Eventually, I replaced them with Vivitar 285's, (that I still have), on which I replaced the plastic hot shoe with metal ones. I synched them to my Hasselblads and Nikons with a H-PC trip (synch), cord. Although the 4-AA ni-cad batteries lasted through most weddings and I always carried extras and I eventually tricked the flashes out with long lasting power packs which I wore on my belt. I only gave them up when I stopped using film cameras and went completely digital in 2000. Now I use the flashes that are dedicated to the camera. Writing this has brought back so many memories. I'm gonna go take them off the shelf.

A great shot with amazing depth. I like these anaglyph photos when they are made by someone, (like yourself), who knows what they are doing. When I view the image without the glasses I cannot see the red/cyan separation. This is not true of most anaglyph images I've viewed on this forum. Wow!

John,
Happy to sell you the grip as described for $300 with the second battery chamber cover included but only one EN-EL15 battery as I need the other one to sell with the camera.