The Sony RX10 (M3, M4) does have power zoom but also has manual zoom. I almost always use the manual zoom because it can be user-configured to work exactly as I prefer it.

Gotta watch that spell check.
https://www.pixelmator.com/photomator/

This is the one I included in my post a few back.

I tried it yesterday and yes, it does seem to want to use the Photos app on the Mac. It uses that as its catalog, I think. It's an award winner, btw. For a Mac user, the integration may be an advantage.

Different printing companies have different requirements or limits. The best way to answer a question like this is to ask the printer directly. When I was interested in printing I found that many would only do JPG but some would do other (better?) formats. As far as I know, however, none will take raw files directly because (insert here all the reasons!).

PC only

That is why I said to forget CD. It is quite hard to find SW on CD these days and CD makes a free trial impractical at best. I know he asked for CD but he also admits to low skill level on computer. Any Mac with a built-in CD reader is very old, btw. For that you need a separate device. I have one and use it maybe every two years at most.

Sometimes it is a kindness to suggest that the OP's request needs a bit more info.

Snob

Forget CD. Download. Free trial. Pixelmator Pro is the upgrade from this.

The LensRental article is really worth reading. Thanks to both posters for that.

This may be old news to most users of this camera and its siblings but I was curious. All these observations were done with "Quality" set to raw only. This is, of course, a mirrorless camera. I don't have access to any other brand so perhaps others will say if theirs behave differently.

● When shooting M with "auto ISO" the EC changes the ISO.
● When shooting M with fixed ISO the EC not only doesn't do anything, the camera tells me it won't do it.
● When shooting Shutter priority and fixed ISO, EC changes the aperture.
● When shooting Shutter priority and auto ISO, EC tries to apply the change to aperture but if pressed will also change ISO. In my simple tests using my monitor as a target, it wanted to use ISO 200 until it couldn't.
● When shooting Aperture priority and fixed ISO EC changes the shutter speed.
● When shooting Aperture priority and auto ISO EC tries to apply the change to shutter but if pressed will also change ISO. In my simple tests using my monitor as a target, it wanted to use ISO 200 until it couldn't.
● When shooting "P" and fixed ISO EC changes both the aperture and shutter speed but I'm not sure how it decides what to change and how much (unless, of course, it hits the limit of the aperture).
● When shooting "Intelligent Auto" the camera won't accept exposure compensation and tells me that.

When the camera accepts the exposure compensation it also shows a brightness change in the rear screen and also in the VF. In other words, the camera will either accept the EC and show the result visually or it will indicate that it refuses.

All of this seems logical and expected but with some settings it's not - at least for me - crystal clear what will happen when it can change two variables. When it can only change one then it's very predictable.

Since I have no information or preference, I will just ask why B+W is considered best or better. Has anyone seen any actual testing or other form of evaluation/comparison?

I don't know if this is only for mirrorless but my display in the viewfinder shows exposure on a scale with what it thinks is perfect at zero in the center of the scale. Easy, then, to adjust.

Also, with most digitals in my experience, if you have it set to lock exposure and focus with a half-press then you can pick a spot (spot meter of course) that will give the desired exposure as you are seeing it.

This is a good approach, BUT the meter will try to make the subject equal to something like 12 to 18% depending on the way the factory set it AND depending on if shooting raw or JPG or other non-raw.

So a lighter than middle gray subject or a darker one will require adjustment.

OK, now for the easy way: if the dynamic range is well within the sensor's ability then shoot raw, fix it in post.

I just completed a one week rent of the Tamron 50-400. I wanted to use one for birds, mostly. My camera is the Sony α6500. I use a Minolta 500/8 AF and was trying to get equal or better image quality plus the flexibility of a zoom. I was very disappointed with the comparison on image quality. Maybe it’s just a bad copy but I won’t be buying one.

I really wanted it to be the solution!

Perhaps for travel having a zoom is a must-have. But I suggest that if the OP has enough time that renting a candidate first is worthwhile. The Sony 100-400 is about twice the price and lacks the wide end benefit but in my experience it’s better for IQ.

Depending on subject matter a zoom with max length of 300 or 350 may be better and easier to carry. My best lens for general purposes other than distant birds is my Sony 70-200 f 4.0. Light, fast, internal zoom and great IQ. On my crop frame it’s like a 300. Reasonably priced, too.

I repeat myself. He’s not a female. Pretty, yes. But just like his namesake he is male. See above.

Absolutely right!!