I agree! But you should still know where what I call the sports "sweet spot" is for the camera(s) you use. And every camera is different. Information from all those that post on this blog help Mom and Pop get those better images. And of course there is always "practice, practice, practice"!

1: Spray cans of anything (or, air, etc.) do not go with cameras.

2: Dump the idea of using your popup flash and get a speed light you will be much happier!

The advantage or the Visible Dust system is that it is a 2 step system. Step 1: for dry dust, you use the blower and the Arctic Butteryfly static brush. Step 2: is a wet clean system using two different cleaning solutions, one for organic contamination, and one for oil based contamination. You may need to use one or both of these methods, but I have found the oil based method to be required the most. I believe this is from the lubricants used on the shutter and mirror mechanisms being tossed about.

The company sells swabs based on the size sensor you have.

I've been using this method for two years. I DO NOT clean them on a routine basis, only when needed. That seems to be anywhere from 6 months to a year. I also recommend their Sensor Loupe. This allows you to see contaminants directly on the sensor without have to take a shot and look at it on the screen.

I use this company's products. I have cleaned my camera sensors several times and done a few others around the area. The products are expensive, but not as expensive as sending your camera out, not to mention the down time. This process takes me about 15 minutes.

http://www.visibledust.com/

Try using "Shutter" priority mode on you camera with your shutter speed set at 1/500th sec. You will then need to raise your ISO setting to the point where you get acceptable exposures (probably 1600 or more). A fast lens is pretty much a necessity for sports photography especially high school sports due to poorly lit fields and gymnasiums. Best thing is to learn the limits of your camera and the relationship between aperture, shutter speed, and ISO.

Yep the 7D sorry.. getting too excited! lol

Wow! Just watched Kelby's field review! He's got me seriously thinking about going with the 7D Mk II over the 1DX. $1799 vs $5999. That's $4200 towards a long lens! Damn I hate photography!! LOL

Yes, take a pic... especially a low light one pushing the ISO... want to see how good it really is!

I'm sitting on the fence trying to decide between the 7D Mk II or a 1 DX? Really need you guys to post ISO/AF opinions!

I see a couple of issues here.

1. The light setup camera left is over powering the light on camera right and as such becomes your main. This is effectively giving you "butterfly" lighting (shadow under the nose).

2. I would place the softbox camera left with the height of the monolight at your subject's eye level. Use your umbrella set at a much lower setting just enough to fill in shadows.

3. Another option would be to move your umbrella behind your subject camera right as a "kicker/hair light" and use your reflector to fill in the shadow side of the face.

Remember, a umbrella is a much harsher light then a softbox, and will need to be at much lower power setting to keep it from dominating the softbox.

Hope that helps.

Hey Bob, I think you have probably figured out from all the other comments that using the lens good most all the time is the way to go unless of course you want the flare for artistic purposes. Also, don't skimp when it comes to filters. Anything you put between your subject and your sensor should be the best quality you can afford.

Also, let me apologize for those few responders that feel they need to make snide or abrasive comments. They have forgotten that at one time they needed help too. I hope you keep asking questions to try to better your craft.

For action shots your primary concern is shutter speed. You will need around 1/500th of a second or better. Second concern is depth of field. The wider your aperture, the narrower the DOF. So you need to shoot at a higher f-stop to increase your depth of field. To achieve both of these you need to either have more light, or raise your ISO (make your sensor more sensitive). The downside to raising your ISO is that you increase picture "noise". One method to add more light is the use of a flash. But if you use flash, you will need to use one the has "High Speed Sync" capability to be able to shoot at shutter speeds over 1/200 of a second. It's all a delicate balancing act. You have to find that "right" set of settings for your camera and light situation. Hope that helps.

Take a look at the "R-Strap" by Black Rapid. It lets your camera hang down at your side instead of in front of you.

Thanks Dave,

It's shots like these that make me want to keep the camera by my side all the time!

Thanks Country's Mama... I think the white spot you are seeing is actually part of the branch that is in the foreground. I was afraid to try to reposition myself a bit more to the left to avoid it.. I thought it might spook him. I was only about 4 feet away. I may try a little PhotoShop trickery to fix that spot. Better yet, I'll go and get a better one and done!

And yes, I did say him. This is a young male Ruby Throated Hummingbird. You can tell by the single red feather on his chest. When he matures, his entire chest will be red feathers. All the females look like the young males sans the single red feather.