Actually, unless the camera requires the SWM (silent wave motor) in the lens, it doesn't make a difference. They both will use either FX or DX lenses (especially if they have the built-in focusing motor Usually the D7xxx) I have both DX and FX cameras. I use the DX for the additional reach on the same lenses as the FX and I ONLY buy FX lenses for both. My old DX lenses will work on the FX cameras (D600 and up) but they will put the camera in DX mode or will vignette the outer portions of the FX images so will have to be cropped to dX.

There are several reasons that people will not sell US made cameras (and many other electronics). The main one is that there are no QUALITY US manufacturers of Cameras, TV's, etc. We (the US Consumers) tried that with RCA (Philco) Admiral, Kodac, and many others. We saw the handwriting on the wall with Agfa, Hasselblad, Nikon, Canon and others. AT THAT TIME, labor, utilities, and parts are less expensive overseas. Japan, has ALMOST done the same things to it's self as a country. Very few manufactured goods are ACTUALLY manufactured there. They are designed and developed and then the product is shipped to Thailand, India, Korea, the Philippines, Mexico, and other countries where labor is inexpensive. If a Nikon D3400 or what ever the current entry level camera was made in the USA and Nikon wanted to continue to make the same profit to pay stockholders, fund research, etc. That camera would probably cost the US consumer 3-4,000 dollars. And I'm pretty sure that Nikon, Canon and other stockholders would not accept a cut in dividends.

I do a lot of shooting in the nature preserves in Pinellas County (FL) and have (as my primary long lenses) a Nikkor 70-300 and a Nikkor 80-400. The 80-400 is an FX lens BUT it's widest aperture is 4.0 at 80 and 4.5 at 400. It works great in good daylight but is very slow in shade or darkness. The 70-300 is slightly better on the aperture and I do get some decent shots with it. My cameras are a DX D7000, DX D7100 and an FX D610.. I generally use the 80-400 on the D600 but occasionally put it on the D7100 for the additional reach. If you don't crank the ISO and shutter speed up it gets a little slow and sometimes blurs the birds and animals.

I have a Nikon D7100 and a NIkon D610 that I use for most of my night photography. I have a Nikkor (But I'm sure Canon makes fine ones too) 50mm f/1.2 which works well on both the Full Frame D610 and the D7100 DX with lots of low light capablility. Most of my other lenses are slower and don't get the exercise in the darkness.. Also I have a goot tripod and a Vellow Freewave wireless release. I also have the Vello Shutterboss Wired release for wired use.

I use Lightroom Classic which has a large catalog and the ability to (effectively) do about anything that you could do with film in a darkroom. The New Lightroom (which is included along with "Lightroom Classic" is fine for use on cellphones nd tablets.. It does NOT seem to have the precise development control of CLASSIC. However, it works well on cellphones because it doesn't need a mouse/keyboard. However, it seems to save the photos to the cloud. I use Classic 99% of the time and ONLY use the other on the Cell Phone. (but I almost never use the cellphone camera.
I would keep the stand alone as a backup.. but remember that Adobe is discontinuing updates and support. I use Classic (from the Cloud and also included on the cloud) most of the time.

I use all three... depending on circumstances.
I use option 1 when on a long shoot.. Option 2 to record stills to 1 and video to 2
and option 3 as a secondary catch all.. Option 1 is 80% of the time. I have 2 64 gb 1000x cards in my camera and 4 100 plus gb cards in the camera case (the larger cards are slower so they are backup.

You are absolutely correct! Part of the issue is that the final version of the cameras (well the shipping version because the final version won't be for several years as Nikon, Canon and other reputable manufacturers are constantly improving original cameras with internal software upgrades and releasing upgraded versions of the shipping camera). These cameras are for show only! They are not even preproduction models... It would be like taking a test drive in a preproduction car that might have the "small" engine but in no way other than looks would represent the finished product. Basically Nikon made the announcement to get preorders to justify production. This gives financiers and investors an idea of how many "could" sell. It also tells second and third party accessory makers how many items they need to make for it. I would imaging that the magazine writers and editors haven't seen it yet either... Probably the ONLY non-developer/manufacturer types in Nikon that have seen/handled a "working" model are the Nikon Ambassadors like Joe McNally, Lindsey Addario, and others. This attitude is consistent with most corporate developments. If you were a government purchaser looking at military jets, Lockheed, Boeing and others would invite you in, show you what was available and also show you what was on the drawing board. This is very similar except that Nikon is dealing with millions of consumers and some professional photographers rather than 5-10 government aviation experts.

It depends on the Nikon body.... Nikon did a wonderful job of keeping their lens to body connections compatible up through the ages.. The http://www.nikonusa.com website has a wonderful lens compatibility chart. It should help you determine which lenses work on which bodies. I have a Nikon D70s (hard to get CF cards for and doesn't work well any more), a Nikon D7000 (replaced the D70s(DX)), a Nikon D7100 (DX) and a Nikon D610 (FX) cameras. These will use all of the Nikon manual focus and autofocus lenses. Some of the newer Nikon consumer bodies (Nikon D3300 and above in the D3xxx line and D5300 and above in the D5xxx line) use the silent wave motor lenses.. ( I can't remember if they will also use AFS and AF lenses in manual focus ONLY mode or not but the cameras do NOT have the built-in focusing motor in the body so any Autofocusing lens would be manual focus only (assuming that it fits) on those cameras. NOTE: after verifying with NikonUSA and DXO all Nikon (Nikkor) SWM lenses are compatible with the older AFS cameras. Typically, the cameras which REQUIRE silent wave motor lenses are the Nikon D3xxx (beginning with the D3200 (I think) and D5XXX beginning with the D5200 (again I think that was the first) All of the Nikon D7XXX bodies will use all of the Nikkor DX and FX lenses. Personally, I have a D7000, D7100 and D610 so I purchase all FX lenses as they are compatible with both DX and FX bodies. Note: the one of the supposed advantages to using an FX lens on a DX body (since the image will still only use the center 2/3rd of the lens image) is that the entire image is supposedly in the "sweet spot" (best image area) of the lens. My main reason is because I have both FX and DX camera bodies and I don't have to worry about sticking a DX lens (which will work but only gives you the DX portion of the image) on an FX body.. All of my lenses work seamlessly on all of my bodies.

Personally, I use LR Classic for everything off of my cameras.. the ONLY thing I use the "new" Lightroom for is my Cell Phone (or tablet) photos. It is more of a "blanket" fix rather than a spot fix.
My wife loves the "new" Lightroom because she shoots a lot of impromptu shots with her cell (and unfortunately sends me copies of everything :( ) It does a good job for blanket fixes but (because it uses your fingers for adjustments) doesn't do spot fixes as well as the Classic (in my opinion).
Personally, I feel that both are good for their intentions.. LR Classic is full control and detail oriented.. New LR is more blanket fix and great for impromptu fixes or camera/phone, tablet photos... Don't get me wrong, you can always send your camera phone pics to your desktop and work the pictures or you can work your DX/FX photos in the New Lightroom... you just don't have the control in the new version... it works great for impromptu fixes on the phone though.

I have had several Seagate drives over the years and replaced all (I used to work for Magnetic Peripherals which was Control Data and became a part of Seagate). I've seen (supervised) the building of their drives and was part of Quality Control. I have managed to get rid of any Seagate drives in any of the devices that I own.. It has to do with their lack of quality. Also, Seagate has jumped in and purchased all or nearly all of their US manufactured competitors... (the ones that stayed in business) but rarely changed the product. I try to stick with Toshiba, Panasonic, Samsun and Western Digital. I will say that every company has some failures but Seagate is the least cooperative at facing their issues. I have a large WD Cloud that has multiple 8TB drives in it and a secondary 4tb Cloud in addition to 8 eight TB drives and a 1TB C: drive in my desktop an 8tb and 1 Tb in the wife's desktop, a 1tb in each of my 3 laptops and 4 or 5 4tb external USB drives that are WD, Toshiba, or Samsung. I used to have 3 or 4 Seagate drives... (all in the 100mb-100gb size) and all failed. I have several IDE and a couple of MFM drives that are 8-10 years old and running Linux and one Novell Server.. that have only been shut down due to storms /power loss or for moving from PA to Fl. Yes all are on uninterruptable power supplies and run 24/7. The only times that they were down were because of power loss in Hurricane Sandy (Philly area) and Hurricane Irma (Clearwater Tampa area). All came back up with no issues.

The point to all of this is that most drive selection is a personal issue and based on user experience. I personally will not give Seagate my money.... and I consider their products to be bottom tier for reliability. But everyone has different experiences. I've been doing heavy data computer stuff since 1990 and have been in computers since the Apple II and Apple IIe, TRS80, Atari 400/800 and the Z-80. I worked in QA for Magnetic Peripherals when their major product was a huge 80gb Phoenix hard drive.. it had a 12" removable platter. This was my first job after I got my Electrical Engineering Degree at the University of Oklahoma.

The point to all of this is that every company has some good drives and they all have some really bad ones. I've never had good experiences with Seagate and they bought out Magnetic Peripherals (they still have a manufacturing plant in Oklahoma City). But your mileage may vary. Many of you may have read my remarks about them and their Mexico manufacturing experience, in the discussion about Non-USA labor.

I don't have any problem with DOF on my DX camera (Nikon D7100 and Nikon D7000 or my old Nikon D70s NOTE: ALL DX cameras). I generally use a 50mm, 18-70mm, 70-300, or an 80-400mm lens and put the camera on aperture priority or shoot manually using a wider (most wide open) f/stop... I don't let the f/stop go more than one or two clicks below wide open and focus on my subject. Usually the foreground and background drop out of focus leaving ONLY the subject. DOF IS DOF regardless of full frame or crop sensor.. However, DOF is wider /different on DX. Use the DOF app on the internet... it will show you the focus area for any lens on any camera.

http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html
try this... I have it on my cell phone and on my computer at home.

I have several older Nikkor lenses that I use regularly on my D7100, my D610 and the wife's D7000. I have had the 18-70 and the 70-300 since our (now defunct) D70s was new. I now have added a Nikkor 50mm f/1.4 and a Nikkor 80-400 and a Tamron 10-24mm. All of the Nikkor's are excellent lenses.. The Tamron is okay but not quite the Nikkor quality (in my opinion). The 10-24 and the 18-70 are DX lenses and the 50mm and 80-400 are full frame. I'm not sure about the 70-300.. it may be DX. The wife is visiting Philly and has the D7000 with the 18-70 and the 70-300 with her so I can't look at the barrel to verify. I do have to say, that if I had it to do over, I would probably have gone a different direction on the Tamron 10-24... I probably would have gotten a Nikkor full frame in that general focal length. The Tamron is okay but not compared to the Nikkor (in my opinion).

That is one thing that I really miss about moving from Pennsylvania to Florida. We had a herd of 10-12 deer, several foxes, racoons, and other wildlife that daily visited our yard. Down here in Clearwater, there are nature parks and lots of wildlife but its all different from that in the Pennsylvania area... not worse just different.

I'm just the opposite. I like FedEX (as long as they handle the shipping start to finish). I don't like them OR UPS handing it off to the USPS once it gets to Tampa or Orlando. The USPS is terrible down here. The FedEx and UPS carriers do great when given the chance.. Also, I track from shipper to destination and I REALLY HATE it saying turned over to USPS mail facility at the end of the UPS or FedEx tracking.. And that's where the tracking ends until the package is delivered (or in many of my cases NOT delivered). I can't understand how FedEx can turn a package over to the USPS in Tampa on a Monday or Tuesday and it takes the USPS 4 or 5 days to finally deliver it. I can drive to the FedEx and UPS facilities (at the TPA Tampa Airport
) in less than 30 minutes... I would rather pick up there than have the Post Office get their chance to misdeliver the package and get it lost.

That was strange.. it didn't want to post my reply