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Apr 28, 2022 22:16:02   #
bajadreamer wrote:
When I first became interested in photographing birds, I would spend my time walking around in parks, forests, etc., looking for birds to photograph. Great fun, but not very productive. Most birds are better at seeing me than I am seeing them. Now I am much more commonly sitting quietly in a place that I have identified as a likely spot for birds and waiting for them to come to me. This is an example of that. A Black-throated Sparrow in Portal, AZ. This bird would come to this perch repeatedly at sunrise to warm up. Simple matter to set up my camera (in the dark before sunrise) and sit quietly waiting. Sure enough, right on time, here he was. This is an example (IMO) of a bird that does not have to be colorful to be beautiful.
Shot with a Canon R5, 600 mm lens + 1.4 extender, ISO 1250, SS 1/2500, f/5.6, converted in DXO Pure Raw, processed in PS (small amount of poop cloned out, small crop from L and bottom).
When I first became interested in photographing bi... (show quote)


That is the magic formula. Study your subjects, and wait. . .

Just as if you were hunting with a firearm or bow.
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Apr 28, 2022 22:14:05   #
david vt wrote:
Hi,

Hoping some clever person(s) can help identify this tripod. No markings, but seems reallyheavy-duty. We are clearing out a parents house and have come upon a treasure trove of camera items, from 6+ various cannon bodies (both SLR and DSLR), bags of lenses, accessories. Most will go to the local highschool as a donation, but we are looking for values on some items, like this tripod.

Condition: perfect except camera foot is missing.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance
Hi, br br Hoping some clever person(s) can help i... (show quote)


Head looks like a Bogen. Skinny legs = light duty. Not worth keeping unless you don't mind a heavy, relatively unstable tripod.
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Apr 28, 2022 22:11:57   #
mvetrano2 wrote:
I just bought an Opteka 500-1000 f8 mirror lens to play with, its a manual lens. My question is what should my camera settings be on my Canon 6D mark II? I will not be able to change the aperture, and I can shoot in manual mode, but to what would I set the shutter speed and ISO? I tried it today and got a very white-outed picture with the camera set on P just to see what would happen. Then I went to M and played around outdoors with shutter at 500 and ISO at 800 and got a few decent pictures, but I feel there is more to do to get the maximum benefit from this lens. I realize this is not a great lens, and maybe a little more than I toy, but I bought it for fun. So, please don't answer by telling me it is not a great lens, and I should get rid of it.
Thanks,
Mike.
I just bought an Opteka 500-1000 f8 mirror lens to... (show quote)


It depends on your situation. If using it in daylight - start with 1/1600 and ISO 400. Overcast, 1/800 or longer, and so on.
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Apr 27, 2022 18:00:59   #
Dikdik wrote:
For laptops, look to a good gaming laptop. They have the speed and the graphics 'snort'. Use it to drive a real monitor if required.


Graphics processing speed is not critical to still image editing - so a mid-range graphics card with around 6 gb vram is all that is needed. When you buy a gaming machine, you are paying for a lot of graphics horsepower that you will never use. Kinda like buying a VW Golf to haul building materials.

Fast drives, enough ram (32gb or more), and if using Lightroom - a cpu with 8 cores + hyperthreading is where the money needs to be spend.
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Apr 27, 2022 16:03:19   #
Bill_de wrote:
There was a time I worked on and even built a couple of computers. I haven't had to open one in many years.

I probably should, just to blow years of dust out.

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I built my last machine for a friend in 2018 - I just retired my desktop in use for 11 years - talk about dust!!!!
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Apr 27, 2022 16:01:17   #
Rongnongno wrote:
The more I think about, the more I become inclined to recommend a solid laptop against a full desktop.

A good laptop (cost is $1.800.00 6GB graphic card, 2 internal drives, 32GB RAM) cost slightly more but has serious advantages.
► Can be used anywhere
► Can us use all the peripherals a desktop does, including large screens
► Energy use is greatly reduced

Laptop display can be calibrated
If the laptop is 'touch screen' they can be used as primitive drawing tablets (Lack the pressure option)

Draw downs:
► Can be slower depending on CPU selected
► Smaller display (17")
► Less expendable (RAM & Internal drive).
► Keyboard is smaller and no dedicated numeric pad.
► Awkward (to me) touchpad
► Not all that attractive if ones creates videos or audio tracks.

What is your take on this?
The more I think about, the more I become inclined... (show quote)


Agee with most of what you wrote with the following exceptions.

An AMD Ryzen 9 5900 or an and Intel i9 cpu on a laptop is a screamer, especially with Lightroom just as fast as on a desktop.
If one is transitioning from a desktop to a laptop - it's not an issue. I just did this myself - and I still use my dual displays, and I can still use the laptop screen if I want to.
Ram is upgradeable to 64gb, (I have 32gb) (2) m.2 NVMe PCIe drives total 4 TB, and a 2 TB SATA III SSD in the 2.5" internal drive bay.
Using the wireless mouse and keyboard I used with the desktop I only use the laptop's keyboard and touchpad when on the go and traveling light.

Other benefits - if you don't mind spending a few extra $$ you can seriously surpass most desktops. If someone is accustomed to not spending over $1K on a computer, this is not for them. They are trading off performance, storage capacity and general usefulness to save their pennies.

Making the transition has been the best thing I have done in a while with respect to computers since I bought my first IBM PC in 1984. BTW, that was a 4.77khz machine, with 640kb ram thanks to an AST Multifunction I/O card which added 384 Kb ram to the motherboard's native 256kb, Tecmar Graphics Master video card with 640-480 resolution in color, and a Hercules monochrome card with parallel port for the monochrome display, and dual 5-1/4" floppy disks, an Amdek Color display and an Amdek 300A amber monochrome display and it cost me almost $6,000 in 1984 dollars. I later bought a 10 mb hard drive for $800, which lasted about 5 months before it died. So my initial investment in 1984 was $6800, which would be almost $19,000 today, assuming the average inflation of 2.71% from 1984 to 2022, give or take.

https://www.inflationtool.com/us-dollar/1984-to-present-value

Most people today have no clue what constitutes a good price for a decent computer. So $1,800 a total bargain compared to the early ones.
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Apr 27, 2022 07:13:00   #
billnikon wrote:
This shows off Ansel's famous darkroom generated image. One of my favorites. Well done Ansel. He stopped his auto and quickly set up for this photo. Lending to the story that he saw the image before exposing. A true artist.


Uh, they were all darkroom generated.
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Apr 26, 2022 18:17:10   #
nikon123 wrote:
Thank you greatly! It took some time to resize but I got the actuals down to 2MB each.


FYI, in a program like Lightroom or Photoshop you can specify the file size and the image size in a preset, takes about 3 seconds to make it a preset so that you don't have to go through this time consuming process all over again. Nice work, btw.
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Apr 26, 2022 18:11:13   #
larryepage wrote:
I think the question here is just exactly what does the viewer consider this photograph to be. To me, it is not a landscape at all.

If ypu pay attention to what Mr. Adams writes, it started out, essentially, as just another "moon shot." It is not, as suggested a couple of times above, badly underexposed. It is perfectly exposed for the surface of the moon.

But, because of his deep knowledge and quick response, he was able to set up and make an exposure that captured detail in the lunar surface, but also enabled a print that portrayed a beautiful environmental portrait of the community. In fact, if you removed the village, what would be left is really just an unremarkable barren expanse. No village, no photograph, moon notwithstanding. Certainly not a saleable print. Try it...cover Hernandez and see what remains.

As I stated in my first response, this is drastically different from any other well-known Adams print in memory, including every one mentioned in this discussion (Half Dome, Clearing Winter Storm). There is no evidence of humans in any of them, and that was very intentional on his part. That difference is part of what increases the impact of this photograph and probably what disinterests others.

It is helpful to understand that Adams really was not first and foremost a photographer. He adopted outdoor pursuits to try to overcome a sickly childhood. In his heart, he was a conservationist. Photography was his means of communication and his livelihood. The photographs that we know grab us because thry came from his heart.
I think the question here is just exactly what doe... (show quote)


Badly underexposes is how a photographer who shuns processing would see it. Disastrous, actually, and ready for the circular file.

Adams, as you pointed out, exposed properly for the moon, having done so multiple times in the past there was no calculating involved, and no need for the light meter. His concern was that by doing so, did he get enough shadow information to make it a landscape photo, with foreground sky and his signature full range of tones. He typically custom-processed he negatives, but in this case he absolutely had to nail it - get enough workable detail in the moon, while being able process the faint shadows (very thin areas in a negative) and pray there was enough there above films base and any processing-induced fogging.

I'd say that this was one of his more challenging undertakings, and since he only had the single negative - he did try to take a second shot but the clouds had moved in the couple of seconds it took to change film holders (or reverse the one that he had in the camera if he was using a two sheet holder) and the composition was forever lost.

He had made a number of versions of this, early on the sky was lighter and the foreground darker. The clouds at the horizon also changed in brightness. At one point he made the decision to irrevocably treat the negative to a combination of selenium toner+HCA (hypo clearing agent), to proportionately build up contrast in the foreground. As new tools and techniques appeared, so did his treatment of Moonrise evolve.

The story is not obvious from viewing the print. But having had a foundation in wet chemistry darkroom, I could appreciate the challenge represented by the image, and how difficult it was to get the results he did. Needless to say, trying to evaluate his work on a computer screen is futile. Nothing substitutes for experiencing the majestic mastery of the real thing.

As one reviewer stated - of all the original versions of this image, no two are precisely alike.

In the digital age, sorry to say, this level of dedication is all but gone. There are true masters that will labor and experiment with software to get the results they want, and have the creative muse to know exactly what that looks like and the skills to make it happen. But they are few and far between.

This link shows some of the variants of moonrise:

https://www.google.com/search?q=moonrise+over+hernandez+before+and+after&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS908US908&oq=moonrise+over+hernandez&aqs=chrome.4.69i57j0i512l6j69i65.12069j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
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Apr 26, 2022 17:46:31   #
SueColvin wrote:
I now own 2 (different) camera bodies. If i use both cameras on the same day, will I have an isssue with image #'s overwriting each other? I contacted Adobe, first person knew nothing. Second person said no, each camera has its own metadata, so it is not a problem. Is there a time to be concerned about this? I do have the box for "do not import duplicates" checked upon importing.


Possibly, unless you import with a preset that will rename the files.
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Apr 25, 2022 16:31:47   #
Deanie1113 wrote:
My 86 yr. old aunt does not want a cell phone. She wants a nice small camera she can carry in her purse to take pictures of her family and sights while traveling. She will probably keep a camera on auto all the time, has no interest in changing lenses, and wants to keep it "reasonably priced." She has no idea what cameras cost. 86 year olds generally are a little shaky and she's probably not good at pressing teeny tiny buttons. I have researched, but have come up empty. Please help!


Take a few minutes and explain that the device from Apple or Samsung or Pixel is actually a camera that has, as an added benefit, the ability to do some other things, like keep track of meds, health/exercise metrics, notes to self, keep photos easily accessible, a calculator, send messages to friends, listen to online radio programming, etc etc etc. You can even sneak in that it can make calls. But first and foremost it is a killer camera and is so small and portable it is easy to always have it handy.

Then show her these https://www.flickr.com/photos/tags/cellphone/

If she still doesn't want a cellphone camera, then at least you gave it your best shot. . .

Then show her one of these:

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1029529-REG/sony_dsc_w800_b_cyber_shot_dsc_w800_digital_camera.html

and this:

https://www.flickr.com/groups/sony-cybershot-dsc-w800/

And call it a day.
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Apr 25, 2022 15:39:15   #
Bill_de wrote:
If you shoot raw and process the file using all the information the raw file provide, then convert it to raw so you can post it on UHH, doesn't that discard the benefits of processing a raw file?

---


No. Even though I suspect you meant "convert it to jpeg" not raw.

To understand why, you'll need to shoot raw only for a while. The answer to your question will be the same one I provided. Even with subjects of average contrast you may find better dynamic range, detail retention and smoother color and tone gradation when you shoot raw, process in a large color space like ProPhoto in 16 bit, and convert to jpeg. Working in ProPhoto makes no sense if you start with a jpeg.

This may expand your understanding.

https://photographylife.com/srgb-vs-adobe-rgb-vs-prophoto-rgb

The advantage of shooting raw all the time is that there is zero chance you will be using jpeg when you really wanted raw. From the standpoint of results, raw serves up 100% of what you can get out of an image, and jpeg varies from 100% to zero, as I demonstrated in my pictures of the sky after a storm, where no jpeg worked, despite bracketing. So standardizing on a complete solution that works 100% of the time has its benefits. Standardizing on an incomplete solution that may not work for all situations is not as good.
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Apr 25, 2022 15:27:52   #
Tom Shelburne wrote:
I am going to be taking pictures for a golf event at our club. I need to allow the golfers access to the pictures for free but would also like to use this in the future for paid pictures. What is the best dropbox like vehicle for this. Thank you


You may want to take a look at http://ifp3.com/

They are set up for ecommerce with a shopping cart, lightbox, images are searchable, right click disabled, watermarkable, etc etc etc.

That is what you need if you want to get $$ for your work. Other photography ecommerce-specific sites include Zenfolio, Smugmug. Other simpler cloud solutions Like Dropbox are mostly intended for sharing not selling.
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Apr 25, 2022 11:43:58   #
Triplets wrote:
The attached photos were taken by me. In #1, I did some minor editing to enhance the visual. In #2 I did a sky replacement in Photoshop. My question is, if I post #2 on any social media platforms am I obligated to disclose the editing and sky replacement?

Thanks,

Dennis


Well, that certainly explains the incongruous lighting in the second shot. The sun is low in the sky, and judging by the light off the clouds, the sun is ON THE LEFT of the image, while the mountains in the distance, and to a lesser degree, the arch on the lower right, are clearly showing light coming the RIGHT of the image. But the EXIF data shows a capture time of just before 5:00 AM on 11/1/21. Very disorienting.

As far as the image is concerned, it could make sense to reverse the sky so the light appears to come from the right. I do like the choice and it eliminates the halo around the arch in the first image.

Typically there are two main categories of photographers - documentarians who merely record and artists who create. Enhancing an image to your vision doesn't make you a liar - if done correctly and tastefully, as you mostly have done, it makes you a visual storyteller. I find the creatives far more interesting that documentarians . . . Just sayin'
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Apr 25, 2022 06:07:04   #
bikinkawboy wrote:
I was doing some cleaning and came across the old Sony Mavica digital camera I used at work. A whopping 1.3 mp sensor that recorded onto a 3.5” floppy disk. A disk would hold 6 photos. I think we paid something like $700-$800 for that jewel. Actually the images weren’t as bad as you would expect by today’s standards. Also, I’m old enough to remember when floppy disks were actually floppy and 5-1/4”.


The first floppy disks were 8" and held 80 KB and it was read-only IBM brought them to market in 1971. They cost $4.50 at Radio Shack

IBM was the first to make hard drives. They used to be called Winchester disks, and held 30 mb of fixed storage and 30 mb of removable storage. And yes, it was named after the rifle the Winchester Lever Action .30/30. Before that in 1953 they invented a storage computer the RAMAC, which was 5 mb and took up an entire room for the supporting electronics. That was 2 years after I was born.

I guess that that makes you not quite as old as me . . .
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