windshoppe wrote:
Yes, we were there several years ago during summer. Unfortunately, it wasn't open last winter during our stay.
Closes after first snow, usually late October at 8000+ ft. elevation.
See attached article for RAW vs DNG discussion. I use Lightroom for all of my organizing and much of my editing, and convert my raw's to DNG upon import to Lightroom from my SD card, for the reasons cited in the article. Takes very little time, and if done at import there is no extra step.
http://photographylife.com/dng-vs-raw
Searcher wrote:
I guess you are referring to thumbnail badges (the tiny black and white icons on the Library image).
Select an image in the grid of the Library and right click.
On the Pop up, right at the bottom of the list choose "View Options". In the section "Cell icons" ensure that Thumbnail Badges is ticked.
In the right hand panel, open the "Keywording" panel. If you have LR6.1 or LR CC2015, ensure that against "Keyword tags" the side box reads "Enter Keywords" Click the very tiny arrows to the right of the box to change the entry if necessary.
Click in the keyword space and it will change to white. Enter your keywords using a comma as a separator and when done press the enter key. If the panel remains white, press Enter a second time. The keyword(s) should now be recorded and the image in the grid should now carry a keyword badge.
If this fails to work, or you have an earlier edition of LR, please repost here.
The best place for this type of question is the Post Processing section:
Click here to come in and look around
Click here for the Tutorials and Tips index page
Click here for the Free software index
Click here to subscribe to the Post-Processing Digital Images section, click on "All Sections" and scroll to the third-to-last item:
Post-Processing Digital Images and click to subscribe in the appropriate box.
I guess you are referring to thumbnail badges (the... (
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Glad you are back Searcher. Missed you.
Gene51 wrote:
The idea is to get a collection of images where the moving elements are not overlapping each other and in all the images viewed together, the stationary elements are clearly visible if you were to erase all of the moving elements. Sounds confusing. These links may help.
http://www.photoshopforphotographers.com/pscs3/download/sample-04.pdf
http://www.media-division.com/photoshop-tricks-solving-common-photography-problems-using-image-stacks/
And this video and explanation are great:
http://www.deke.com/content/dekes-techniques-022-removing-people-with-image-stacks
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Thanks Gene, amazing tools.
Gene51 wrote:
You don't "need" a tripod. I've done it successfully both ways. In fact I believe the Ramelli video I posted the link to shows it done handheld.
But you do need Photoshop or another program that uses scientific image analysis. So it's just another reason to get PS. Or not and miss out on this.
Gene, for this method. are the exposures additive? That is if you want a normal 1 sec. exposure, would you shoot 10 1/10 sec exposures and combine using the mean option?
Sherman A1 wrote:
:thumbup: The only bag brand that I will buy is Lowepro. I have 3 and have been exceptionally pleased with them.
ThinkTank products are excellent also.
Focus stacking for both macros and landscapes is primary purpose as explained by others, and you could also use it as a nodal rail for panoramas if long enough. If you would like to know more, the Really Right Stuff website has some nice tutorials. They sell both products also.
minniev wrote:
The Oly 75-300 is not bad. I am no kind of wildlife photographer at all, so I don't claim expertise, but it does OK for me except in real bad light.
Sample below, the first is SOOC and the second is the final edit/crop from it so you can see I went pretty far with the crop. Zoomed out all the way. Most animals end up having to be cropped because the 300 is not long enough to avoid scaring them except when you're in National Parks or something, where they are more used to us. Most animals where I live deal with human predators regularly so they are pretty shy.
I've been tempted by the ancient BIgma with the 43 adapter but a trusted friend told me it didn't work that well.
The Oly 75-300 is not bad. I am no kind of wildlif... (
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The cropped version looks pretty good to me. I would be happy. May have to try that lens.
suntouched wrote:
I have considered the M5 II mainly for the water resistant qualities and because I am very impressed with Olympus equipment and lenses in general. But I want greater than 150 mm reach ( 300 mm equiv)
The 75-300 will give you 150-600 full frame equivalent.
R.G. wrote:
That's a good sign. I don't know what the true colour of that kind of sandstone is so I had to guess. It's possible my WB shift to the left was a bit more than was required.
As one who lives about 2 miles away, I think you just about nailed it. Must have been winter as the trees are a bit grey.
I do lots of hiking with my gear, so the first thing I did, as several recommended, was to downsize to an Olympus m4/3 system which cut weight and volume by ~60%. I don't like backpacks tugging at my shoulders/traps when hiking and climbing, so I went with a belt pack which feels great to me as the pelvic bones bear the weight. And my camera is protected in back until I need it, then it's easy to quickly slip the belt to the front for quick access. And you can leave them in front if desired. Two recommendations- Lowepro Inverse AW-comes in 2 sizes. And the Think Tank Speed series- comes in 3 sizes. Both also come with a sling strap which helps distribute some weight to the shoulder if desired.
Last time (and it will be the last time) I was in Death Valley in July, night time temp was 112. Was camping, and was almost impossible to sleep. Bryce is at ~8000 ft. and Zion at 3500 ft so much cooler there, especially at night.
minniev wrote:
Will PM you.
Thanks, that's probably what I should have done in the first place.