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Posts for: billnikon
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Oct 17, 2019 09:12:33   #
Feiertag wrote:
Would a lighthouse fit into this category?


Anything that is part of the landscape is considered landscape.
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Oct 17, 2019 09:11:34   #
Feiertag wrote:
Would a lighthouse fit into this category?


Everything fits into landscape, every thing.
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Oct 17, 2019 09:10:37   #
WDCash wrote:
I would love to be able to just whip out the checkbook and order the latest and greatest. But life is very good and patients is still a virtue.

I am considering the purchase of a common 100-400 4-5.6 type I or II. Obviously type II should be improved over the type I or there would not be a type II. I understand the AF was improved, I'm guessing a good deal improved.

So while I'm waiting for the expendable cash bucket to fill a bit more I am wondering if the more experienced gaming us would care to offer some thoughts on the +s and -s of the choice.
The cost of one over the other, depending on who has it for or sale can be significant. I realize you get what you pay for, no free lunch, etc. etc.. So I want to avoid if possible, making a purchase and wondering later about my discussion.

I am primarily considering just the 100-400 canon BUT those Sigma and Tameron 150-600 s do seem worth adding to the discussion tree as well.

I shoot wildlife 90% or more of the time , very often from a bot but winter is rushing at us. A lot is hand held with my added surgical grip but I am working more and more with the tripod when ashore.

And, my only camera for now is a Canon t3i (cropped sensor) already slow on autofocus lock.

Thanks
Bill
I would love to be able to just whip out the check... (show quote)


I shoot in Florida Everglades daily. I have had many friends who are Canon shooters switch from I to II. They have ALL said the II is better, MUCH better.
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Oct 17, 2019 09:09:21   #
srt101fan wrote:
A photographic image should be judged first on emotional and intellectual impact. Arbitrary measures such as sharpness, exposure, noise, white balance, composition, extent of manipulation, etc. should be second tier considerations.


Today Albert would be proud. However, exposure, use of light, composition, and many other factors can also effect the emotional response to an image.
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Oct 17, 2019 09:05:31   #
Novice62 wrote:
Hi, a couple of years back I received some superb advice here when I was deciding on the purchase of my first DSLR. I ultimately purchased a Canon 80D and I primarily use a Tamron 18-400mm lens. I am still shooting in JPEG and I currently use the very basic processing program, which is part of my IOS operating system. More and more I'm receiving encouragement to change to RAW. I recently moved to NC and I plan to continue to take photos of Nature and Wildlife including Birds. I realize that when I change to RAW I also have to change the program I use to process my photos. When I have a discussion about changing to RAW from folks from all over, they almost all use Lightroom but I realize there are other programs too. So all this said how difficult is it to transition to RAW? I'm told it's easy to learn Lightroom, but I don't know, what I don't know about it yet or whether I should consider another processing program. I am concerned about the learning curve in all this and the time it may take to process my photos. But while I may be like many somewhat resistant to change, I think I'd like to improve my photo quality. I welcome any advice on how easy it may be to change to RAW and any reference info. Additionally I welcome any advice on what to do with all my JPEG photos after the change. Thanks in advance.
Hi, a couple of years back I received some superb ... (show quote)


I use Photoshop, when loading a RAW image it goes into the RAW photoshop format automatically. I can do what I want with it and then I load it into regular photoshop for further processing. I most commonly then save it to the computer in Jpeg.
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Oct 17, 2019 09:01:11   #
bobbyjohn wrote:
Is it better to buy camera in USA or China?

My son is traveling from USA to China in a couple of weeks. He is interested in buying a new mirrorless camera (his first), either Sony or Canon or Panasonic, and not sure whether to buy from USA or China.

Questions:

1. If he buys in China would he likely get a better price than USA? If so, is such price difference significant?
2. If he buys in China, would that be considered gray market? ie, no USA warranty?
3. Is there any customs tax on such a purchase when he returns to USA?
4. What do you recommend? China? or old USA faithful B&H or Adorama?
Is it better to buy camera in USA or China? br br... (show quote)


First of all, if he buys in China, it will be a Nikon China Nikon (GRAY MARKET), yes, it will have a warranty, and if his camera needs servicing during the warranty period, he will have to send it to China Nikon for repairs. And yes, the Chinese Nikon is considered a GRAY MARKET camera, ie. NO USA warranty. No servicing by USA Nikon either now are down the road. However, if his camera breaks down say two years from now, he could find US repair services that should be able to help. But rest assured, Nikon USA will not service it EVER. BUT, he can always send it off to China Nikon for repairs down the road.
Yes, you will save money buying it in China, how much? Depends on a lot of factors.
I have bought several Nikon lenses from China on line and have NOT paid any customs tax. BUT, with that said, I have never traveled to China to purchase, it has always been on line.
IMHO, it pays to buy from B&H or Adorama, yes, it will cost more. BUT, if your son can afford to travel to China, he should be able to cover the difference and have more piece of mind buying from USA dealers.
And in so doing, supporting American Camera Dealer Workers, USA Postal Workers, and USA warehouse workers.
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Oct 16, 2019 09:03:47   #
Dossile wrote:
I just read an old travel photography article by Thom Hogan. One of his suggestions is to put brightly colored luggage pulls on the backpack zippers so that they are easy to see, no longer black on black. Great idea, especially as my eyes age. I hate fumbling for the zipper pulls when a great picture opportunity is quickly developing and will soon be gone. I have a few simple gadgets. Despite the life changing benefits of Google Map, I still have found need for the small compass I keep on my camera bag when hiking or in a big city. Phone batteries don’t last forever, signals fade. I also have found surprising uses for a light weight locking carabiner always clipped to my bag handle.

Nothing as profound as the gear vs photographer diatribe now at 290 posts. I’m curious what unique tips or what small gadgets people find useful as a traveling photographer.
I just read an old travel photography article by T... (show quote)


I use the smallest camera I can take. So I take my Sony HX99 with a belt pouch on my belt so I am always hands free and I am ready to shoot at any time.






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Oct 16, 2019 08:58:55   #
Tinker wrote:
I took some images of the Milky Way while at Monument Valley recently, but with a 30-second exposure there is a bit of star trail evident - very slight, only about three times or so the diameter of the star image itself. Is there any way in PS or is there another app to reduce that effect so the stars are sharp? Appreciate any help from all the experts in astrophotography! Bill


500 rule for milky way
For full frame camera's
Set camera to ISO of 3200 to 6400
Aperture at 2.8 or as wide as possiable
set shutter speed to 500 divided by the focal length of lens, ie. using a 50mm lens, 500 divided by 50 equals 10, so 10 seconds, using a 24 mm lens, 500 divided by 24 equals 21, so 21 seconds

For crop factor lens on a Nikon (1.5)
so, 50 mm lens on crop camera is 500 divided by 50 divided by 1.5 equals 6.6 so 7 seconds.
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Oct 16, 2019 08:46:06   #
Rocky Beech wrote:
My interest has been peaked over the Tamron 150-600 G2 lens that has been talked about. I currently have a Nikkor 400mm F3.5 AIS along with the matched teleconverter. It has a lot of history with me and I would hate to give it up. Nikon of Japan rebuilt it in 2000 with all new glass and it has been the sharpest lens I own. But I am getting older now and 7 pounds is a lot to carry around.

I was hoping to get some of your marvelous opinions about whether I should sell the 400 and go for the G2. Maybe I should mention that I shoot with a D7100. I look forward to your comments. Thanks
My interest has been peaked over the Tamron 150-60... (show quote)


There was a time when Primes ruled because they were MUCH sharper than zooms. Those days are long gone. Yes, with primes you can shoot wide open and get great results. But I have found that my Nikon 200-500 was just as sharp at F5.6 as my 200-400 f4 and 300 2.8. So I sold those heavy buggers and now go with just the 200-500 5.6 lens. It has an electronic diaphragm which assures correct exposures using a high frames per second. I am 70 and understand the weight issue. I have no issues hand holding the 200-500 and it is sharp, sharp, sharp.
Best of luck to you and keep on shooting until the end.

Attached file:
(Download)


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Oct 16, 2019 08:06:56   #
Sparky54 wrote:
Hi to all, I have been taking pictures of soccer meets under all kinds of conditions,daytime,night {under stadium lights} rain etc. I will be taking pictures of the seniors and their parents walking onto the field after dark with the stadium light on.Can anyone offer suggestions on taking these pictures ? I use a Nikon D7100 and have a variety of lenses that i could use.Tamron 70-200 2.8 G2, Nifty fifty,Sigma 18-35 1.8 art lens.
Any help would be appreciated.


I strongly suggest you go ahead of time and practice your shots under the conditions you will be shooting. Then and only then can you fine tune your exposures.
When I started out in photography this was how I learned to take images. I would go AHEAD of time and fine tune until I got the results I wanted. Then when the show began, I was prepared and ready.
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Oct 16, 2019 08:04:07   #
WDCash wrote:
The full moon reflecting on the bay was beautuful last night. I tried to photograph it and my reaults were way less then acceptable.

The moon and its reflextion werr like headlights. Ahould I use a filter (circ. Pol.) to dampen the moon down to allow its lumination of the meadows show up?
What might be a good starting place ?

Thanks


The moon is a brightly lite object, same as a scene on earth around noon. The base exposure for the full moon is 1/iso at f16. So, if your iso is 125, then your base exposure is 1/125 at f16. Again, this is a staring point. You have a digital camera so you can adjust up or down based on your view of the first shot.
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Oct 16, 2019 08:01:29   #
BrentHarder wrote:
What's this??? Splotchy!! I took this photo and had two speedlights helping out. I had these settings on my Canon 6D with a 24-105mm lens: 1/50 sec, F9, ISO 1250. My image stabilizer was off since the camera was on a tripod. Was my ISO set to high? I shot the photos in RAW with jpgs.
I know several of you out there in UHH land know exactly what I did wrong.......please share with me so I don't do this again!


Learn your equipment before you go out and shoot. I always take test photo's before leaving the house with the equipment I will be using exactly the way I plan to shoot it on site.
And, I always take back up.
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Oct 16, 2019 07:58:21   #
gvarner wrote:
To improve my landscape shots, I need to go out when the light is what I want it to be and not be satisfied with the light that I have. I usually try to "work the scene" and move around to take advantage of the lighting that I have at that moment in time but I can see how seeking out the right light ahead of time for a scene would be beneficial.


Ansel Adams would be proud.
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Oct 16, 2019 07:56:35   #
JeetND wrote:
I love wildlife photography. Photography is not my profession but i like to give voice to the voiceless mainly through pictures.
I love Bigcats. I also do click birds if chances arise, wouldn't like to miss them. But bigcats are a priority.
I spent maximum 1-2 months in a year in the jungles, rest i have to work. So, i don't want to miss any chances because of less reach, or angle of view.

I am confused between the D750 and D500. The D850 is out of budget. The other Dxx series is not at all available here or older ones like D3s.

The bigcats are mainly active in early morning and late evening especially the tigers, which i shoot mostly as they are in India.
But these leads to low light scenarios.

I currently own the D3400 with 18-55mm & 70-300mm VR kit lenses which is good upto 2000 ISO & have used D7100(rented) which was good till ISO 3200 max. But picture quality takes a hit after 1600 ISO in both.

I have recently got an used Nikon 70-200mm VR II f2.8 for 785 USD and an used Nikon 200-500mm f/5.6 for 642 USD.

I know the D500 have all the fancy features of D5 and D750 have nothing of those features, even a max of 15 raw bursts buffer. But it has low light performance which helps with shutter speed when handholding. There is no room for tripods or monopods in shared vehicles. I will be attaching a few images with focal lengths if possible, you can check them.

Price of D500- 1614 USD ( Also have noticed a grain present in D500 shots, in sunlight for birds its not noticeable but in shades for mammals i can see it in few images)

Price of D750- 1271 USD, used around 930 USD
Price of D7200- 700 USD, used around 400 USD

So, i could get a used D7200 and a new D750 for the price of a new D500.
I love wildlife photography. Photography is not my... (show quote)


I use the D500 with the 200-500 Nikon and get great shots. In focus and sharp. The D500 also shoots at 10 fps. much faster than the D7200 and D750.
In addition, one of the best focusing modes is called GROUP AUTO FOCUS, the D500 has it, the other two don't.
In addition, the D500 shares a second focusing system that both the D850 and D5 have.
In short, if you want to shoot wildlife, the D500 is the way to go. Don't forget the 200-500 which, by the way, has an electronic diaphragm which gives you exacting exposures at 10 fps. Third party glass does not have this.
Good luck and keep on shooting until the end.
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Oct 15, 2019 07:27:13   #
Pete Kelly wrote:
I recently bought a Lumix gx85 and now I am getting ready to sell one of my 2 gx1 cameras. I am also going to sell a 25 mm Panasonic prime
What I would like to know is how do you read the shutter count


http://exif.regex.info/exif.cgi
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