mas24 wrote:
Obsolete-proof lenses? I'll have to remember that quote. A 100 megapixels DSLR, or mirrorless camera, may not be too far away. The sensors exist now.
I just meant they are being built for any bigger megapixel sensors. Realistically there may never be a big market for 100 megapixel sensors in the 35mm-sized, full-frame sensor camera market, maybe only in larger format camera systems that are about there now. . Of course other lens improvements like Canon's proposed touch-sensitive lenses may make some current lenses "obsolete" by some standards. But good quality glass that still fits the cameras of the future, will be lasting.
Darkroom317 wrote:
The cropped digital sensor size is based on the Advanced Photo System film standard that was introduced in the 1990s. It was developed as a joint effort by Kodak, Agfa, Fuji and Konica. My understanding is that it was a colossal failure however, the standard sizing has remained. This is why Canon refers to their crop sensors as APS-C.
Sony also refers to its smaller size sensors as APS-C . They and Nikon's smaller digital sensor are relatively 1.5X the "magnification" of their full frame sensors. whereas Canon's APS-C sensor size is relatively 1.6X the "magnification" of its full frame sensors. I put "magnification" in quotes, because it is not truly magnified, but just a smaller angle of view produced across the smaller width and height of the APS-C sensor.
Ex: A 24mm lens on a full frame sensor camera has the angle of view of an equivalent of a 36mm lens when on an 1.5X APS-C sensor camera such as Nikon and Sony, and a 38.4mm equivalent on a Canon 1.6X APS-C sensor camera.
The Sigma Art 85mm f1.4 has tested super sharp, and all Sigma Art lenses are made to solid build standards and made to resolve with up to 100 megapixel sensors, so they are obsolete-proof.
I have this lens, it is heavy but an amazing lens.
Opusx300 wrote:
I have purchased refurbished lenses and never had a problem. In terms of used, as other have said, your best bet is to buy from reputable dealers such as Adorama and B&H.
Don't forget that hidden gem, Allens Camera, they do reputable big business too.
bpulv wrote:
Since DSLR lenses are not matched to your camera at the factory, the mechanical dimensional tolerances between the camera and a lens may be slightly positive or negative. It is impossible to make any mechanical part with zero tolerance. So, for example, the dimensional tolerance for the sensor to the camera lens on the camera body may be +/- 0.001" and the lens focal point tolerance for the lens may also be +/- 0.001". Because the tolerances are algebraically additive, that means that the distance between the lens and the sensor can between +0.002" and -0.002"; i.e., a 0.004" variation in that distance is within manufacturing tolerance. Statistically the majority of the lenses and bodys will be matched closer, because if the body measurement is on the plus side and the lens measurement is on the negative side, it will provide a closer match. But, that will only be true about half the time since both the body and lens may be positive or negative, in which case the tolerances would add together.
Whenever you buy a lens, new or used, you should adjust the camera's AF Fine-Tune for the lens. That function allows you to adjust the the camera's autofocus function to compensate by nullifying the tolerances. On a Nikon, you should go to the AF Fine-Tune function in the menu. Newer Nikon bodys can store the adjustments for multiple lenses. There are multiple methods for making the adjustment. The following links should help you:
https://petapixel.com/2017/08/16/use-auto-af-fine-tune-nikon-dslr-right-way/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zE50jCUPhM
https://www.slrlounge.com/calibrate-focus-on-your-dslr-af-fine-tune/
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bouly no need with mirrorless cameras. They read focus directly off the sensor (no mirror or flange wear to factor in) . So on mirrorless cameras the EVF (Electronic View finder) and rear screen displays the actual focus at the sensor. If it is sharp here, the shot is sharp, no need for lens calibrations.
burkphoto wrote:
The problem is usually that you have a dSLR that is slightly out of calibration spec in one direction, and/or a lens that is slightly out of calibration spec in the other direction. Some dSLRs can be focus-calibrated to their lenses, and if so, you may — MAY — be able to solve the problem. But your lens may be so far out that it isn't compatible with your camera body (or vice-versa). I once bought a Canon EOS 40D that was so badly out of spec with my lenses (lenses that had worked fine on six other bodies) that Canon replaced it.
Every manufacturer of scale uses statistical process control procedures to monitor their quality. There are normal manufacturing tolerances that ensure MOST products that leave a factory are well-within specification. However, occasionally a unit will be out of tolerance, and that will be the one they didn't sample. And when devices used together are out of spec on the opposite sides of the "perfection" baseline, that becomes a problem.
Mirrorless camera owners don't have focus calibration issues... focusing is done using the imaging sensor itself. So if you are considering a switch to a mirrorless system, know that that is a major advantage to such systems.
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Good point burkphoto. I switched to mirrorless and don't have to worry about focus calibration.
cjc2 wrote:
I am also a customer of Allen's and I have been dealing with them a long time. They are my 'go to' camera store even though they are 90 minutes from me. I have bought new and used from them as well. Their staff is knowledgeable and friendly and I highly recommend them. I often forget to mention them as they are local, yet wonderful. Everything a good camera store should be. I know there are a few others on UHH who are customers as well.
Thanks cjc2 . Allens is great and folks can take advantage of them online if they don't live close enough to stop in. I drive 50 miles from my home in South Jersey to Allens when I can. They are always so friendly and helpful. They are my camera store of choice, and will remain that.
They always test any used gear they accept, no matter what time of year. I know from experience trading in stuff during the holiday shopping season.
Cheers !
As a longtime pro I recommend three great sources for quality/inspected used equipment.
#1 is Allen's Camera ,Levittown,Pa, (the biggest and premier camera store in the Philadelphia area)
http://allenscamera.com/
I have bought great, pristine used cameras and lenses from them. And I have traded in some of my gear there on occasion as I upgraded. They would only except excellent quality gear that they had tested. I once saw folks from Adorama Camera there at Allens. They came down from NYC to buy many many thousands of dollars of Allen's used gear to sell in their store. I asked the Adorama guy and he said Allens consistently has the best condition used gear. Allens also matches national prices of Adorama and B&H on new gear.
#2 :So I would also recommend Adorama Camera (the second biggest camera store in America) they are super reputable and also stand behind the quality of their used gear. .
#3: B & H photo (the biggest camera store in America). They also handle great used gear. And just like Allens and Adorama they only sell "like new" or "excellent" rated used gear. Hey these folks care about their reputation and they don't want to chance it by selling poor quality gear, new or used.
You can be confident buying used lenses and cameras and other photo gear from these I consider the best three in America.
Certainly the skill and knowledge of the photographers matters most, but good glass will last you a lifetime , while camera bodies will come and go. As a pro shooter for four decades, my "good glass" always paid for itself with better image quality and longer life.
24-120 a great travel lens focal range.
dmsM43 wrote:
My vote is for the Canon F1.
I enthusiastically agree, Canon F1 !
For me it was the Canon F1 (top of the line for Canon 35mm film cameras at the time). . I used this when I was covering the Sandinistas vs Contra War in Nicaragua back in 1987. Its ruggedness and durability in horrible jungle warfare conditions was outstanding. Meter was spot on. Worked while caked in mud or in a jungle downpour, heat and humidity no problem. Helped our two-man reporter and photographer (me) team win many awards, including from World Press Photo, NPPA Pictures of The Year, (including being a finalist for the Pulitzer Prize) for the images and story we brought back, which led to Congress cutting off US aid to the Contras, actually ending the war, saving lives on both sides. It holds a special place in my heart and my photo equipment history.
I keep a working Canon F1 in my collection alongside all my extensive digital gear. Used it recently in a 35mm B&W film class I taught at the University level.
For me it was the Canon F1 (top of the line for Canon 35mm film cameras at the time). . I used this when I was covering the Sandinistas vs Contra War in Nicaragua back in 1987. Its ruggedness and durability in horrible jungle warfare conditions was outstanding. Meter was spot on. Worked while caked in mud or in a jungle downpour. Helped our team win many awards (including being a finalist for the Pulitzer Prize) for the images and story we brought back, which led to the actual ending of the war, saving lives on both sides. It holds a special place in my heart.
I keep a working Canon F1 in my collection alongside all my digital gear.
Latest News , Sigma to announce new line of FE Art (fullframe) lenses for Sony E-mount (no adapter needed) at CP+ show in Japan this year.
https://www.sonyalpharumors.com/sr5-source-confirms-sigma-will-announce-multiple-fe-lenses-cp-show/
https://www.sonyalpharumors.com/sr3-trusted-source-says-sigmas-first-fe-lens-new-35mm-fast-prime/
These lenses will surely continue the great Sigma Art series quality, at less-than-Sony prices.
Sounds like a plan. Keep us informed and ask any further questions that might arise. Cheers !
Don't have any A-Mount lenses so I am not versed in how well they work with Sony E-mount adapter. Yes there are a lot of A-mount lenses that may be more affordable than E-mount. A good E-Mount lens that won't break the bank is the (full frame) Sony FE 28mm f2. I have it and love it. It is sharp, fast focus, great for low light, compact and quiet for video. I do love my A6500 (APS-C sensor) camera also, in addition to my A7R3. For that A6500 camera a great E-Mount choice is the 18-105mm f4 (APS-C size) with power zoom option which I love using. Also sharp and easy to use. I have this lens also and it is a keeper.
There are great Sigma lenses for E-Mount (both full frame and APS-C size) that may be another affordable option. The full frame Sigma Art DG series lenses work with the Sigma MC-11 adapter on the Sony E-mount. They use the MC-11 adapter because they come in Canon EF mount. No worries, the MC-11 adapter makes them work just like native Sony glass on full frame and APS-C E-Mount Sony cameras. I have three of these and love them.
Not to be confused with other great Sigma DC lenses that come in actual Sony E-mount (no adapter needed) for Sony APS-C cameras, such as their 30mm f1.4, and new 16mm f1.4.
I recommend that you start with a few basic E-Mount lenses (Sony or Sigma) that cover the focal ranges you need. Shop price and check reviews. I am here to help you if you need further advise. Cheers.
But yes, by all means, the A7R3 is worth it. 10 frames a second is great for sports and action. (The A6500 shoots 11 frames a second). The quality of both A6500 and A7R3 images in still and video ,make these two cameras that you could live with for your photo needs for many ,many years.