I always recommend buying true Nikon (Nikkor) lenses if you can afford it. There are cheaper non-Nikon lenses of course but you get a lens that will not have an "in-camera" profile so distortion correction can't be done and no metering data that helps ensure auto-corrected exposure (even WB can have issues).

I know people buy/use non-Nikon lenses all the time. I am a systems engineer that knows that an "engineered solution" is going to produce consistent results, and no I promise I do not work for Nikon. The way I see it bodies are fleeting but lenses are, or at least were, forever. I.E. invest in lenses and buy bodies that can do what you require.

Having said all of that I use D7200s and LOVE them with FX lenses since most of the issues with vignetting, distortion, etc are literally beyond the physical sensor edge and what remains can are auto corrected. I literally just bought another one to replace the one I bought in Aug 2017 with 314028 shutter clicks (and still working btw).

Back to lenses eh-um: If you have a focus screw (D7000-D7500) then I like the older lenses but I bang mine around so older non-plastic lenses like 70-210mm f/4-5.6 AF and AF-D and 35-70mm f/2.8 AF-D are not super expensive and work but my go to lens is the 70-200mm f/2.8 VR. I have two and can't recommend them enough.

Hope that this helps a little. I know I went off topic a bit but felt it needed to be said.

Thanks,
Jim Cameron

IG: @jcstudiopics

I love sports photography and the technical aspects of needing to know your camera and lenses to shot 1/750 to 1/1500 shutter speeds in low (crappy) lighting without flash (gymnastics mostly). I'm always trying new things and expanding my portfolio.

Here's an example of my work to give you perspective on what I shoot and skill level.

Thanks,
Jim Cameron
JCStudio Photography

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