First ensure the tutorial you are watching is for the correct version of Lightroom - i.e. Lightroom CC or Lightroom Classic. These are two different programmes.
Version 6.x and before would be similar to Lightroom Classic, but Lightroom CC is relatively new.

Focus Merge - a tutorial video for Affinity Photo

https://affinity.serif.com/en-gb/tutorials/photo/desktop/video/295557891

Here is another one - if you like this then I will try to do something about the leaning over door in the background and the pink radiator.

(Download)

This is the original thread with other photos - it might help to understand what it is all about:

https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-597722-1.html

Try this for size -- I have no idea what the colours should be - if they are not correct just say.

(Download)

Rename one of the files then import it into LR. I that works, then do the same for all the other (missing - now found) files.

+

This is a link to the instructions on Photostacking

https://photoshopcafe.com/focus-stacking-photoshop-tutorial/

I think this is home made, have a look at this video (uses Photoshop)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KSKPBT7XqSg

Your statement concerning Affinity is absolutely incorrect. A raw file can be destroyed by disassembling and reassembling the code, but not by using the Develop Persona of Affinity Photo.

A raw file opened in Affinity will automatically open in the Develop Persona and a copy of the image will be made and displayed on the screen. (a raw file cannot be viewed directly as it is not an image file in the same way as a jpeg, tiff or png. The results of the image manipulation in the Develop Persona is then opened in the Photo Persona. This so far, is the same methodology as Photoshop - start in ACR and end in the main editing section of Photoshop.

The image can be with saved as an .afphoto image (equal to a .psd image), or exported from Affinity as one of several different formats - tiff, jpeg, raw, png, eps etc., but the raw file will still be on your disc, unscathed, untouched and unaltered.

I would be most interested in how you arrived at the conclusions you stated, and what is the free program which you state also will destroy raw files.

Have you raised the flash on the camera? (I have often set up everything, shot, no flash, pondered and realised I had forgotten to raise the built in flash.)

I have made greetings card templates for Word:

Page Layout: set the spread size (9x7 or 9 x 14 depending on if the card is to fold or not fold
Set the outer margins
Set the gutter if the car is a folding one
Show grid if you need it.

Save as a template and open it for use for each different card.

Whichever method, don't forget to set your printer to custom size for the paper or card.

My Word is v.2007 but newer versions may have guides as well which will make it easier. I now use Photoshop and/or Affinity to make greetings cards. If you have MS Publisher it is very easy to make the template but commercial printers will probably reject it. It is good for home use, as is Affinity Publisher and Affinity Designer.

View > Studio > click Basic

That's good info, thanks.

I was trying to help you decide if you picture was sharp enough for your purposes. Since you targeted the focus close to the subject's eye, and since all of her face and most of her hair is indicated as having sharp pixels, I (perhaps incorrectly) thought this may help in your decision.

Whenever I tryout a new lens I always use this method as a first test. If targeting a face using say f/5.6, then I would expect the subject to be sharp and the sky totally out of focus. Other posters have mentioned a "softness" overall in the image; I would test this by photographing a chart or even a newspaper.

I have photographed many faces and if too sharp, become unflattering, rarely are they sharp in real life.