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Dec 12, 2011 15:40:52   #
nat wrote:
What's the best angle to shoot a horse?...with a camera, of course. This also applies to cattle, I assume.


All contributors are good advice. When taking horse photos be aware of there head, use a med to long tele and back off some, if you don't then the head will be out of proportion to the body. Also, not too much space in there stance. A further away back foot should be slightly forward, and a further away front foot should be slightly back. Hope this helps
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Dec 12, 2011 15:39:29   #
nat wrote:
What's the best angle to shoot a horse?...with a camera, of course. This also applies to cattle, I assume.


All contributors are good advice. When taking horse photos be aware of there head, use a med to long tele and back off some, if you don't then the head will be out of proportion to the body. Also, not too much space in there stance. A further away back foot should be slightly forward, and a further away front foot should be slightly back. Hope this helps
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Nov 30, 2011 13:28:08   #
Eugene wrote:
I have a Nikon D3000. The focus motor is in the lens for these cameras. I understand that this is also true for the D3100, D5100 etc.
My question is this. Does the D90 or any other Nikon in that price range come with the focus motor built into the camera. I believe this would save money on lens.
If that's not true let me know that also.
Are there any advantages to having the motor in one place over the other?


Question? If the af motor is in camera on the D90, then why does the kit lens 28-105 have a S identifier. And which af motor takes control the lens or the camera?
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Nov 28, 2011 23:04:53   #
robert-photos wrote:
K2KImages wrote:
Also, remember that Win7 or others can't view Raw format files. You would need to use a photo editing s/w to view them. Also, there are settings say in ViewNX at the top that will let you view only Raw, or only Jpg, or both.


That is absolutely not true.

I view thumbnails and previews of .dgn, .cr2 and .arw files (all RAW formats) in Win 7 64 Explorer (otherwise known as My Computer). You just need the codecs and can easily find and download them from the web by searching "view <file type> in Win 7 Explorer" if you are missing them.

I also view the same RAW format files in Windows Photo Viewer which is part of Win 7.
quote=K2KImages Also, remember that Win7 or other... (show quote)


Wow! thanks robert, I didn't know that was available. I apologize to anyone for the misinformation. I will also get the codecs. Thanks
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Nov 28, 2011 22:46:30   #
docrob wrote:
Lmarc wrote:
After someone pointed me to the "depth of field calculator" online I found it invaluable. My wife just bought a new Sigma 70-300 "macro" zoom lens which has a switch that initiates the macro function when zoomed between 200-300mm. It works good for what it is supposed to do, I guess, and the lens in general is far better than I expected for the price.

Is there any way to calculate DOF when in the zoom macro mode? How can she increase DOF? Are there any tricks other than aperture adjustment?

a cheap trick: make sure the "film" plane ie the back of the camera is perpendicular to your subject, a second cheap trick is to increase the contrast between subject and background...........

:?: :?:
After someone pointed me to the "depth of fie... (show quote)
quote=Lmarc After someone pointed me to the "... (show quote)


Don't you mean that the film(sensor) plane should be parallel to the subject?
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Nov 26, 2011 18:13:06   #
Vr is one of the best things that has been developed. We always are looking for a way to be more stable. Just think of it a 200mm was 1/200th and now is a 50th or so. Wow! If you take the same precautions with stability you get amazing results without the tripod.
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Nov 26, 2011 16:24:10   #
abc1234 wrote:
I would not shoot in manual. Let the camera do the work; that is why you bought it.

I do not have a Nikon but I presume it has controls like my Canon 60D. I use creative mode with either a fixed shutter speed or fixed aperture. The camera will set the other. This is the usual trade off between stopping the flames and depth of field. You can also change ISO to get both shutter speed and f-stop into a range you want. You decide which you prefer. You may want to check the histogram. You will have a lot of shadows but adjust the exposure to move the flames/highlights to the right.

As mentioned above, probably no flash. It wipes out the dramatic difference between the flames/highlights and the shadows. It also loses the reds of the flames. If you want that drama of the flames, shoot without the flash. Otherwise, use flash.

Good luck.

PS I am from the other Elk Grove: Elk Grove Village, Illinois.
I would not shoot in manual. Let the camera do th... (show quote)


If your goal is to let the camera do the work, this is great. For all given f stops, and ss, there is two setting combos for good exposure. In manual mode you can be creative, which is what photography is all about. You just can not duplicate some of the creative effect with auto settings(letting the camera decide). Bracketing, exposure, even focus is controlled by camera or the photographer. Good luck.
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Nov 26, 2011 14:12:52   #
snowbear wrote:
WxGuesser wrote:
However auto does a miserable job in snow as I discovered to my sorrow-a lot of Photoshop work to correct (hundreds of pictures).

The problem with snow is caused by the meter. They are designed to work with midtones (12%-18% grey) so they render all white, and all black as a mid grey. Try overexposing by one to two stops to get white snow, and bracket the shots.


You are right. What happens with show is that the sensor, in film cameras too, is that the sensor wants to expose the scene to med grey so it underexposes. What you need to do is overexpose by say 1-2 stops to render the snow white. The over and under exposure is true with all extreme light or dark scenes.
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Nov 26, 2011 14:00:39   #
ahzwizerd2 wrote:
Does anybody know how to adjust your white balance to see true color, like you see with your own eyes.
I can always edit later but I want to sync my white balance with correct Factory Default.
With a Card


White balance is another learning curve. There all kinds of instruction, and text on what to do. I apologize but don't want to get wordy with the explanation. A trial and error would be to note the light condition, cloudy, sunny etc. set your wb to that, look at the scene with live view, paying attention to the colors, then set the wb +- to fine tune to the color you see.
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Nov 26, 2011 13:42:13   #
Based on your situation, extension tubes will only make things worse. Tubes allow you to get closer which makes the DOF shallower. As far as cropping, shoot in raw and then you can crop with better success.
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Nov 24, 2011 17:54:23   #
silver wrote:
kimberliswenson wrote:
Ok, so I am new to this, and I got all excited when I found out that My CS4 would merge images into HDR...But I don't like what I am getting. Can anyone enlighten me as to what their favorite HDR programs are and how much I need to save up to get it? Don't want to make a huge investment because I don't know if this is going to be my cup of tea just yet, but I definitely want to play with it and get a good feel for it. THANKS!!


HDR is very over rated. So many people think that HDR is the perfect way for presenting there images. The answer is to be a better photographer and learn how to use light properly. Dont lean on digital effects to improve your images. Learn to shoot your images properly and there will not be a need for image manipulation in post.
quote=kimberliswenson Ok, so I am new to this, an... (show quote)


Ok, you are correct on some points. However, Ansel manipulated almost all of his work in the darkroom. There are times when the light will never fall on part of a scene, and therefore, using HDR will bring out the darker portions without washing out the lighter. Our eyes see things in so much detail and can see the lighter and darker, but film or cencers can't. This is why a subtile use of HDR works.
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Nov 24, 2011 16:37:49   #
Also, remember that Win7 or others can't view Raw format files. You would need to use a photo editing s/w to view them. Also, there are settings say in ViewNX at the top that will let you view only Raw, or only Jpg, or both.
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Nov 24, 2011 16:25:22   #
JerrysPhotos wrote:
OR if you just tag them with the Keyword Heron, the when you click the Keyword, all of your herons will appear...


Thanks for the info. I do use tags also, very usefull.
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Nov 24, 2011 16:20:37   #
I don't know about other models of cameras but mine will count(number) photos untill 9999 is reashed. I know that I can use folder, but I don't for simplicity. I have shot above 600 photos during a photo shoot without using folders.
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Nov 24, 2011 15:38:36   #
Taz1 wrote:
When I downloaded by canon camera to my computer the transfer would automatically created a folder using the date of the file as the name. With my new Nikon I have noticed that all the files are downloaded to the Nikon Transfer folder and when it creates a folder it names them by starting from 1 and progressing, then within the folder it again starts with 1 and the pictures numbers from there. It is very confusing to find a photo on the computer and then try to correspond to the shot on the camera when all the number are so different. Is there a preference or something that can be set either in the download software or the camera to make this more consistent?
When I downloaded by canon camera to my computer t... (show quote)


Set the camera file numbering to continueous. Then a number won't repeat untill to get to 9999. Please see other comments for discussion on file systems, and numbering. Hope this helps.
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