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Posts for: jboy24
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Mar 8, 2015 18:39:39   #
Brian in Whitby wrote:
The moon is illuminated by the sun. It is not a source of light itself although it may be used as a source for moonlight photos. For all practical purposes the brightness of the sun's illumination does not change. The phases of the moon are just a result of the sun's Light hitting at different angles. The illuminated part is just as brightly illuminated as when the moon is full.
Since the intensity of the sunlight on the moon is constant, the exposure is constant.

There are three factors affecting the exposure; ISO, shutter speed and aperture. The Loony Eleven Rule gives on possible combination that will be correct in order to show the features on the moon's surface. However, other combinations are also possible for example, instead of using f/11 & 1/100 s at an ISO of 100, you could equally well use f/8 & 1/200 with the same ISO. This is the concept of reciprocity. There are of course many other combinations of shutter speed and aperture that could be used but it is rather pointless to list them all.

If you are really fussy about an accurate white balance, and I don't see this as an issue use 5800 K, the temperature of the sun's surface. Note that this is not the Daylight white balance on your camera since it is calculated using a combination of the sunlight and the blue light from the sky.

As far freezing the relative motion of the moon as the relative motion you do not have to worry unless your exposure is longer than one second. Using a fast shutter speed to prevent motion blur of the moon is like doing the same to freeze the motion of a slug crawling along a leaf. Far more relevant is having a fast enough shutter speed to prevent vibration on the tripod. If that concerns you lock the mirror up, use a shutter release and hang a weight from the centre post of the tripod.

I hope this rather long explanation answers all your questions
The moon is illuminated by the sun. It is not a so... (show quote)


OH I agree with all that you said, not really any questions... on WB, like i said daylight works for me good enough even though it is not spot on it is close enough... Yes many combinations can work, I do use 2 sec timer delay.. OK if I can't get sharp enough @ 1/100 sec or lower- f16 or 18 then I will have to examine my gimbal set up because with apertures of 5.6 to f11 I get good results with plenty of detail across the entire moon.

1/125 sec f9 ISO 100

(Download)

Resized and recrop 400mm

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Mar 7, 2015 22:30:28   #
Brian in Whitby wrote:
The Loony Eleven Rule:

To photograph the moon, set the aperture to f/11 and the shutter speed to 1/ISO.
eg ISO = 200, Aperture = f/11 shutter speed = 1/200 s
or the equivalent such as f/8 and 1/400 etc.

There is a similar rule for a photograph in full sunlight called the Sunny Sixteen Rule.


It seems like there are several different rules here, never heard of this one, I am sure it can work.. It also seems like we are all over the place with different settings, Aperture, SS, ISO, also is it full moon, half, or partial and what about white balance... I use daylight setting because it is daylight on the moon and when I load my pics into my computer and look at them on my calibrated monitor the color looks exactly what I see outside. Setting the aperture to f5.6 works if your glass is sharp at that setting, mine is...also 7.1 to f11 is good as long as the shutter is fast enough to freeze motion because of the earth's spinning. It has been my experience that a minimum SS of 1/125 sec and up ( can work without motion blur), with ISO set at 100 for lower noise and better resolution.
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Mar 6, 2015 23:58:40   #
Also, I have a gimbal for my 400 mm lens which is great the longer lenses...
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Mar 6, 2015 23:41:59   #
I have the Kirk BH3 bullhead it is smaller then the BH1 and it has served me well for ten years now. Kirk "s gear is all aircraft high strength aluminum and, his plates clamps L bracket are all solidly built and will last a lifetime. My next bullhead will be the Kirk BH1 for sure.
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Mar 3, 2015 20:04:45   #
imagemeister wrote:
For smaller budgets I like the older Tamron SP 20-40 f2.7-3.5. The newer Tokina 12-28 f4 is a crop frame lens but covers 18mm and up on full frame - reasonably priced- you can see it here - http://www.kenrockwell.com/tokina/12-28mm.htm.

Of course, there is always the Canon 17- 40 for big bucks.


I have the Tamron 17 - 35 f2.8 - f4 and it is a very sharp lens back in the day when researching many reviewers considered this lens better then the Canon 20 - 35 f3.5 - 4.5 by a wide margin..so I bought the Tammy and never looked back, love this lens for all my landscape work. Now I'm thinking about a crop sensor lens maybe a Tammy or Tokina.
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Mar 3, 2015 18:53:22   #
When I shoot the full moon camera is wet to.

Manual mode/RAW
Shutter speed= 1/125 or 1/160 sec
Aperture= f5.6 to 7.1
ISO= 100
Meter= matrix
Focus point= center with expansion
Timer= 2 sec delay
400 mm 1.6 crop censor
Tripod

In my experience, anything slower then 1/125 sec the moon comes out a little soft, reason for that is because we are spinning which equals movement which equals blur at slower shutter speeds. I like sharp detail on the whole surface of the moon. Most of my work ((bird & wildlife) the meter is in matrix mode but I am going to try partial metering on my next moon shot...
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Feb 23, 2015 18:57:59   #
Edmund Dworakowski wrote:
I've been a LR user from the beginning, and have no problems running the software. My problem is that I have a copy on my laptop and due to problems with the HARDWARE, I'll be forced to format my hard drive, and thus loose my copy of LR during the format. Because I have the original key code, I should not have a problem downloading a new copy, My problem is Where Do I Download A copy Of LR 5 ?
Anyone with a web address with the LR 5 downloads ?


I am looking to do the same, upgrade from LR4 to LR5, so I found this..
http://www.amazon.com/Adobe-Photoshop-Lightroom-5-Upgrade/dp/B00CH6AWOY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1424735480&sr=8-1&keywords=lightroom+5+upgrade
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Feb 19, 2015 12:55:18   #
kitcar wrote:
My 18-55mm came with my Canon & was amazed at its performance. I've since added a nifty/50 & the Tamron 18/200 thus giving me a range to suit all my purposes.
The 18/55 I use mostly, on account of its lack of weight & fits into my smaller camera bag when out walking any distance.
Incidentally I have had my 400d & 18/55 5yrs & still waiting for Armageddon. If fate plays a nasty on me, I can well afford to renew them for all the service I’ve had from them.


The 18/55 is a great lens...although I do not have that lens but know people that do and they love for performance and weight. I also still have the Canon 40D, a great workhorse of a camera, I just recently moved up to the 7D...I will keep my 40D.
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Feb 10, 2015 19:28:29   #
For many photographic situations the polorizing filter is the most important filter. For landscapes, then the neutral density gradient filter is a must for many situations. I have both, they are permanently in my backpack. The mid to higher price ones are better (color wise) and these filters are worth every penny...
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Dec 22, 2014 18:51:54   #
I do back up on one outboard drive and store my catalog in the other outboard drive from which I edit from, and also on archival DVD discs, when I have time or I realize I have way too many folders in LR..funny this came up, just the other day I realized that I desperately need to back up my files...
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Dec 21, 2014 18:59:10   #
hondo wrote:
get yourself a canon 400 5.6 .. i love mine with or without converters ..


I concur, and AF is pretty good with the 1.4 in good light...
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Dec 21, 2014 18:55:16   #
jeryh wrote:
You would do alot better if you got a Canon 400mm F5.6L- far away the best for BIF.


Absolutely!!!
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Dec 20, 2014 20:03:40   #
I have been using Energizer Lithium in my 550EX and 420EX for many years now and have had no problems..but then again I don't use my speedlights like some people, (note the older models). I like the lithium's because they do last longer and it has been my experience the alkaline batteries run out sooner but they recharge faster then lithium"s.
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Dec 2, 2014 23:17:15   #
SonnyE wrote:
Manfrotto is kind of Oddo.
I have one of their gear heads for Macro use. So interchanging isn't important with it. But they do have a strange mount base.
Works fine. Just strange.


Yeah I agree they work fine but their mount is strange indeed...also, Manfrotto has many different clamps and mounts, why, I do not understand, case in point, my Brother in law has to switch plates between his tripod video head and his mono pod tilt/swivel head, all Manfrotto, makes no sense.
I will say this, I have Manfrotto tripod and monpod for years and they work great, my ballhead is Kirk and the monopod is an early manfrotto tilt/swivel head which I was able to attach a Arca Swiss plate... The newer Manfrotto tilt/swivel monopod head will not accommodate the Arca plate it has a permanently attached Manfrotto clamp.
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Dec 2, 2014 22:43:56   #
jcboy3 wrote:
RRS and Kirk are very good, but also very expensive. I use an Arca BBH-200 ball head for my larger tripods, a Sirui travel tripod with C-10X ball head, and a Kirk MPA-1 swivel tilt monopod head. I use various Manfrotto and Neewer Arca plates, and generic Arca L-brackets. My gimbal head also takes Arca.

Arca QR systems are particularly useful for L-brackets and gimbal heads. The L-bracket allows mounting of a camera in landscape or portrait orientation. A long Arca plate on a gimbal allows positioning of the lens for balance.

The drawback of Arca is that most Arca systems are not as quick because they require screwing and unscrewing the clamp (a lot if you have stops installed on the plates).

The other issue is that the swivel tilt monopod head doesn't work with the L-bracket. For monopod use, I prefer the Manfrotto QR; it's quicker to mount and release. But it doesn't support portrait orientation. So I use an Arca adapter attached to a Manfrotto QR plate, and then mount the L-bracket on the Arca adapter; this all mounts on a Manfrotto swivel tilt head.
RRS and Kirk are very good, but also very expensiv... (show quote)


I have used Kirk for several years and have no issues...you can't go wrong with either one of these companies.
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