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Jul 19, 2012 11:07:40   #
JOHN438 wrote:
We have approx 150 dogs at any one time, so we have plenty to choose from no matter what you are looking for.....here's the deal on pictures as I see it....you don't have to show scale, size, blah blah ...what you do is make the web site with ALL the dogs pictures look as good as you can and the people will come. They may not get the dog they thought they wanted once they interact with several, but at least the people come to look and it usually results in an adoption.

Now for the numbers...I have been taking pictures there for a year...someone told me they were at a meeting a year ago and the director said we had an adoption rate of 50%.....the same person said they were at a meeting 2 weeks ago and the director said the adoption rate is now 85%
the director and operations manage are CONSTANTLY telling me how important the pictures are.
To tell you the truth I would not even try to pretend that good pictures are the sole reason for a raise in the adoption rate by 35%, but I can guarantee you one thing...it didn't hurt.
Think of it this way ...if you go out there and replace lousy pictues with good pictures of say 20 dogs, you can be pretty sure that in the future at least one dog will be alive and happy because of your pictures as opposed to you doing nothing.
If you were that one dog, how could someone who says they enjoy photography explain to you why they didn't help, simply by doing something they enjoy.
We have approx 150 dogs at any one time, so we hav... (show quote)


Sorry John. I have to disagree with you. Size does matter. Most people are looking for a specific kind of dog. Very few are wanting a dog without any type of preference. It's true that many people end up getting something different than they originally had in mind, but they have something in mind to start out with. The thing is to get them in the door. If they are cruising through picture and don't see the type of dog they are looking for, they aren't going to come in. The first question I get asked when I'm trying to place a dog and show someone the picture is, "How big is it?", followed by, "What breed is it?" I have some friends that were looking for a smallish dog and wanted a Shiba Inu type. They thought they had found the perfect dog from pictures posted on a shelter's website. Calls to the shelter weren't all that helpful because they only knew the dog by a number and only read the same info that was on the website. The family wanted me to go evaluate it for them, so we drove the 90 miles to the shelter to take a look. When we got there, the dog turned out to be an Akita, much larger that the parents would allow. The kids already had their hearts set on this dog and cried all the way home. Sure, they got in there and looked at other dogs, but the kids were so heartbroken, as were the parents, that they just couldn't get into it.

Nice photo of the little guy (i assume he's little....see where I'm going). He's got such a sweet expression. However, he looks like his head is chopped off. How about running his body down and out the corner of the frame?
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Jul 18, 2012 23:08:53   #
saichiez wrote:
docjoque wrote:
Good post. I'm AMAZED at how many pro photogs don't shoot RAW, especially wedding photogs and photojournalists. Depending on what you're trying at achieve, it can be a detriment. On the other hand, it's saved my ass more than once.


It's a "life is too short" issue for me. I would never suggest that what I do is the right way for everyone.

However, in all my careers... (now 69 and still humping for $$), if I have learned one thing about the tools I use... construction, marketing, computer consulting, etc,. is that life is too short to do more than focus on learning the tools that get the job done.

Having those other more sophisticated tools available is great, and I could do a lot of post processing, but why should I? I am more happy with the volume of work that is done at the end of the day, provided it meets my standards of quality.

For me, RAW is a tool that is simply going to hang on the wall, unused. I know how to get the standards and quality I want, by knowing how to maneuver the pixels IN the camera. Ie, the histogram, the metering modes, the manual mode, using a high quality hand held light meter instead of depending on formulas engineered by programmers in the camera, some of whom have never snapped a shutter in a creative environment.

Some may say I am being short sighted... and that's fine with me. At the end of the day, I may decide to take the next day or two off, partly because I am not slave to RAW and/or Post Processing.

And when you say it's saved your bacon (Ok, you said ASS, but aren't ASS and bacon somewhat the same, or anatomically near each other) more than once, I respect that, but it also implies that it's a part of your income program, and that's a whole 'nother reason you may be doing it as I see it.

Again, not arguing the point. Just pointing out another perspective. I don't buy the one that says one has to be shooting RAW to be a photographer. What does that make me when I am out with a 4X5 large format, or a medium format film camera. I do still do over half my photography in that realm.

In fact, I am making MY money buying a selling film camera's. Both large format and medium format are rising in popularity and price. Perhaps RAW had something to do with that. Many are finding digital personal usage way too frustrating and returning, or embarking on simpler photography for higher quality results.

In fact that may be the reason some wedding photographers have not switched. One reason is the learning curve to quality if they are already booked heavily. But then, there is the wedding photographer I know who switched to digital, got brave and shot a whole wedding on one 32 Gb memory card. Put it in his computer, and the card failed. Turned out to be counterfeit. Lost the whole wedding.!!!!! Well, as it turned out, not entirely. His second man was shooting his film equipment, and he told the guy to try to dupe what he shot throughout the day.

He came to me and asked me to sell him back one of his film camera's he "unloaded" when he switched to digital.

Is this a RAW problem ... Ok ... No. Is this a digital problem? Well it shouldn't be???? but is it? No... it's his problem for not considering all the variables and a switch to an entirely new way of creating images.

Lastly, the turnaround time for delivery for wedding and some other professions, like sport journalism leave no time for RAW. Many tight timeline professions do not leave time for dealing with a format that is unusable as it comes from the camera. RAW is that to me.... unusable in it's native OOC (out of camera) format and quite useless (to me) as a result.
quote=docjoque Good post. I'm AMAZED at how many... (show quote)


No, I right there with you. I agree with you 100%. I usually shoot RAW+jpg, but only because I can without it being limiting storage wise and speed wise. If I shoot only RAW (which is pretty much never now days) then I use IJFR to extract the jpegs from the raw files. Sometimes I only shoot jpeg because I need speed and I need to get the files to where they need to be - fast. And I'm not even a pro; i just get called on every so often to do photo work.

You're right though. raw takes a lot more time, and many times it's for negligible benefit. Like I said earlier, I was surprised at how many TOP professionals don't shoot raw, especially since we always hear about how raw is the be-all end-all and Holy Grail. I'm with you though.

My brother shoots everything in raw. We both shot our niece's dance recital a little while ago. I had all the shots up the following morning. He spent hours and hours on his raw files and had them up a week later. There are so many programs now days that simplify batch processing raw, that it is definitely a lot easier than it used to be, but sometimes (read usually) I just don't want to take the time.
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Jul 18, 2012 13:22:09   #
Good post. I'm AMAZED at how many pro photogs don't shoot RAW, especially wedding photogs and photojournalists. Depending on what you're trying at achieve, it can be a detriment. On the other hand, it's saved my ass more than once.
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Jul 18, 2012 13:17:38   #
Go to: http://michaeltapesdesign.com/index.html

and DL for free the IJFR utility (Instant Jpeg From RAW). Shoot all your RAW, then you just right click on the folder and the Jpegs that are already stored in the RAW file will be extracted in no time.

IJFR is free, but I ended up buying the WhiBal card as well, which works great.
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Jul 18, 2012 12:54:11   #
Great photos. Are those your pups?
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Jul 18, 2012 12:53:38   #
John,

I find it commendable what you are doing. I donate the proceeds of the photos that I "sell" to the local no-kill shelter, and they can use any type of help they can get. I have often thought of volunteering my time with the camera to them, because they have some pretty God-awful pictures on their website of some pretty great dogs. The picture can make a big difference in the dog even getting looked at. I have to disagree with CAM somewhat though. The head of the dog is where it's at, especially with purebreds, and with those knowledgeable about the breed. However, with many shelter dogs of mixed breeding, it's hard to tell what size they are and what their body type is by just a head shot. For instance, if you are looking for a jogging partner, and saw a head shot of a corgi, you'd not know that this dog wouldn't cut it for you unless you knew the breed. Or they might have the corgi listed as such, but it may be mixed with a running breed, making it the perfect running companion. However, if there was just a head shot, and you knew what a corgi was, you might perhaps just bypass this dog, no matter how cute it's face was. I would also try to get some type of scale in there.

One of my current little guys was a rescue from a buddy of mine that rescues herding breeds. he knew that I was looking for another dog and suggested one he had recently rescued. He directed me to the link of the shelter, and upon looking at the picture they had, balked and decided I wasn't interested. When I finally saw the dog, I was amazed that it was the same dog in the picture! They had him shot from high up, looking straight down, not interested in anything.....just horrible all the way around. If this dog stayed in the shelter, I'm sure no one would have wanted to see him based on his picture. He's simply a stunning dog and a great all around guy!!

Zack at Baldy


Zack at Palos Verdes


Zack sleeping

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Jul 18, 2012 12:14:46   #
I don't have time to sleep either. I'm busy building my business....the same business that everyone else built for me. They get to sleep, I don't. :-)

I'm also building my body and health, which apparently, everyone else built for me also.

Sorry, couldn't resist.

"If you’ve got a business. you didn’t build that. Somebody else made that happen." Obama, 2012
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Jul 17, 2012 11:21:20   #
Looking good. The second shot looks like focus might have been on the blades of grass instead of the eye of the tiger. Still pretty sharp though.

But yes, lens, focal distance and aperture might have something to do with it. Did you do test shots with your lenses to find their sweet spots?
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Jul 17, 2012 10:59:19   #
CaptainC wrote:
odellvic wrote:
When looking at websites where photographers have their photos for sale they say " professionally printed". What are the parameters when calling a print professionally printed. Can one get good quality photo paper and a quality photo color printer and say it is "professionally" done? I am wondering how a person cam make a profit selling a print if the only way you can say professionally printed is through a photo lab.


Oh my goodness - If you think you cannot make a profit just because it was "professionally printed," what on earth do you think the selling price is? An 8x10 at my lab costs (depending on options) from around $2.25 to $4.00. I sell it for between $50.00 and $85.00 depending on subject, amount of total sale, and some other considerations. I can make a profit!

This is where so many wannabes fail, they think if it cost $4.00 to print and they sell it for $8.00, that they made a profit. Nope, they just lost around $25.00 and are too naive to know it.
quote=odellvic When looking at websites where pho... (show quote)


This seems to be the area that confuses photogs most. I've been to seminars where the section on pricing was supposed to be 30 minutes, but stretched to 2 hours because of all the questions from everyone regarding pricing, packages, strategies, etc. The next time around, the organizers alloted 2 hours to pricing, and it still ran over.

BTW, I just took a look at your portfolio, and I think your images are incredible. Just the perfect amount of stylization to be artistic without being over done. Great eye.
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Jul 17, 2012 10:30:25   #
jimberton wrote:
i have used this product for years and years. i have used it when it was genuine fractals 1.0 and i think a company called leaping lizards or something like that owned it.

it is great and does exactly what it says it will do.

i use this product at least 5 days a week.

if you have a crappy small image....it will be blown up crappy.

but if you have a decent photo you want blown up...it works great.

i also use it at work as i do the graphics for out 10' wide banner printer. i have made 4x6 photos up to 8' tall and sharp as it was at the small size.

but if you have intentions of pulling tiny 37k optimized photos off the web and plan on blowing them up to 8x10 or larger, you will be disappointed.

like the old saying...garbage in...garbage out.

this is one of the most spectacular pieces of software that i have ever used.

if you get it and need some help or pointers..you can PM me. i would be glad to help.
i have used this product for years and years. i ha... (show quote)


I agree. I love it, but don't try to take a small image from the internet and expect to blow it up sharp.

The whole OnOne suite is really impressive.
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Jul 16, 2012 05:07:00   #
Additionally, OnOne Perfect Mask 5 will take about 4 swipes and 10 seconds to remove the background. If you take the photos on a solid colored background or cloth, the process would be one swipe and 2 seconds.

Works great on hair, feathers, veils, glass, etc.
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Jul 16, 2012 04:57:34   #
Gill747 wrote:
I use Perfect Mask by OnOne: http://www.ononesoftware.com/products/perfect-mask/ It comes in two flavors, Mac and PC.

It is a plug in and you need photoshop CS4 +, Photoshop Elements 9 +
Lghtroom 2 +, or Aperture 2.1 +.

It is great for $100. They offer a 30 day download and have lots of tutorials.

ps. great with fine hair


Yes, hands down OnOne Perfect mask 5. I don't touch PS5 or 6 anymore for masking.......well, sometimes, but very rarely.
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Jul 16, 2012 04:51:54   #
barbkelly wrote:
I am using spot metering. I tried recomposing but it still didn't work. I was wondering (after reading another thread) if I focus on the foreground and then set my lens to M if that would work better.

I really appreciate your help!!!


When you spot meter and press halfway and recompose, are the settings remaining the same, or do they change? If they are changing then you will need to change some settings in your camera for your shutter button, or use the aperture lock button.

There is also an phone app called Exposure Pro that takes the place of an expensive light meter. Easy to use and you can't go wrong.
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Jul 16, 2012 04:35:38   #
drydock wrote:
Thank you all for your contributions. Your helpful comments have helped me clarify things (I think). After further research, I have decided to go the 15-85 route, because, for my purposes, the low end of the scale will be more important than the length of the zoom. Also the quality of the glass and sharpness mentioned in the reviews was a factor.

I will take my "nifty fifty" as well. Who knows, I may even "chicken out" and pack my kit 55-250, but I'll purchase the 15-85 lens well before I go and see for myself if that will really be necessary.

Next upgrade will be to replace the kit 55-250 with better glass but that can wait for later.

Thanks once again.
Thank you all for your contributions. Your helpful... (show quote)


You might think about bringing the 55-250. I have NEVER been satisfied with my 15-85 as a travel lens, but I'm always trying to get close up and nature stuff when I go. Just be aware also that many places don't allow you to get as close as you'd like, so the extra reach is imperative, at least for me.

Sorry to throw a wrench in your plan, but I travel quite a bit and my 15-85 doesn't cut it.
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Jul 16, 2012 04:19:09   #
drydock wrote:
jimberton wrote:
drydock wrote:
David Morrison wrote:
I have just completed a month's travel in Europe including a 12 day cruise around the Mediterranean.I took approximately 2200 shots using a Canon D5-11 and one lens, the 24-105 L USM IS.

I took just this one lens and often remarked to myself that this seemed to be the ideal single lens to do the job.A few thoughts....

I'm not sure that you could call it light weight, and I'm not sure that any good quality lens will be?

But, the D5 is full frame which which means you get a true 24mm at the wide end --- a camera with the multiplier will obviously not be so wide.

However, looking ahead, being a top quality robust lens, it would be a good investment for the day when you may have a D5 or similar full frame Canon.

I have always understood that the more zoom you have in a lens, the more image quality you lose -- I'm not sure whether others would agree or not.

The widest f stop is f4, but I have never thought of this as a problem. It has good image stabilization.

One last thought which maybe shouldn't be added.... Since the D5-3 came out, the price of the mark two has dropped by approx. 35% ( in New Zealand anyway), but in most respects is as good as the mark-3.You have so much resolution ( due to 21 mp , and the full frame ) that you can afford to crop quite a bit , which you may conclude effectively gives you more zoom ( the effect is not strictly the same of course).
I hope these thoughts are helpful.Good luck!
I have just completed a month's travel in Europe i... (show quote)


Thanks David-- now instead of springing $700-$1000 for a lens you have me thinking about spending $4000 for a mark 2 and a lens-- good job!!
It's maybe a bit early to think of upgrading to a full frame camera--I have only had the 600d for about 3 months. The 24mm on the crop turns out to about 38mm which isn't exactly the best for scenery but your point about it being an investment for a camera upgrade is well taken-- certainly food for thought
quote=David Morrison I have just completed a mont... (show quote)


ansel adams used a 50mm and took a few scenery photos.

to have something that would give you the same view on a 600d, you would need about a 35mm (which the view would equal about a 53mm).

i just bought a sigma 30mm 1.4 for my 7d and i love it. it's very very sharp lens. but shooting landscape would not require a 1.4 lens. but it gives me ability to shoot in very low light. go to your local camera shop with your camera and try on a 50mm 1.4 and then something from 28mm-35mm.
i mostly use my 24-70mm2.8L...but it is very expensive and very heavy.

i have a friend that shoots a lot of scenery and he uses a 28mm canon lens, which is not very expensive. all these prime lens yield great results at pretty low prices.
quote=drydock quote=David Morrison I have just c... (show quote)


I agree about the prime lenses. I bought a 50mm f1.8 for just over $100 and it's my favourite lens.-- so--off to the camera shop tomorrow to play!
quote=jimberton quote=drydock quote=David Morri... (show quote)


Sorry, as I read through this thread, I realize my earlier posts were redundant and really not helpful. Sounds like you've got it covered. Have fun! One thing I would like to add (and it's probably already covered in the next couple of posts, lol) is you can take multiple images of scenery and stitch them together if whatever lens you decide on is not wide enough. It's pretty easy to do in PS, but you have to make sure you standardize some of the settings. Just check out what settings to use for a panorama.
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