Oh, OK, glad you told me that. I did an export before I left home today. Did not look to see of originals were still there.
Thanks for the warning. An easy way to loose a whole load of work without that one vital piece of info

Yes, you did understand correctly.

How does merge function handle items that have changed?


I seem to remember some issue about LR5 and the version of OS X I run...10.6.8, I tried ML 10.8.4 but did not like a few things, so went back to SL.

I have just built myself a 'Hackintosh ' laptop, instructions from tonymacx86 website. Built on ebay HP4530s , 8g ram 480 gb Crucial SSD, 2.5ghz Core i5. All for less than £450.
Speed is equivalent to late 2012 13 inch MBPro, geekbench tests giving a score about 7500. After what I have spent on camera kit recently could not go and buy a real macbook,so settled for DIY approach for now.

4,

The x9 is a little tight to do the zip up around the top with the 5D body with dded battery pack..could do with being maybe only 5mm larger. but otherwise great usable bag

Just wondering if anyone had a good 'workflow' /system for mobile computing and using/sync'ing lightroom catlogue from laptop to main machine.

OK, so one way os to keep your 'current active catalogue on an external drive and choose that , but wondered if anyone had any other solution to the 'problem' of keeping photos that you edit while mobile in sync with the main catalogue back at base.

I have one too., the x9

It accepts...just a 5D MkIII with the battery extension pack with a 70-200 2.8 USM II lens fitted.
leaves room for the folding Velbon UT43b tripod, swivel head, small flash gun and th 24-70 lens too..
front pocket then holds , spares..flash batteries, cleaning stuff, etc

I am using LRTimelapse and Lightroom.
I am using th free version of LRT so limited to 400 frames. I can't justify 100 euro or more on software foe a bit of playing

Ah ..thought it was me.

Thanks for that sunshooter. Unfortunately I was only in that place for one nigh, so had to rely on the iPhone, TPE and built in compass.

That ended up with the alignment being out in relation to where the sun appeared.

Also my tripod did not allow battery change while mounted..so as soon as ack goes flat that is it. Still got got the hang of Holy Grail' method of using LRTimelapse to get clean exposure changes without brightness jumps

thanks..new ones look a bit different, ..better..may not need to cut the legs down

Would like to buy another of these

Anyone have a name? or one they want to sell?

You can see in the last pic, how I have cut it down to fit the camera bag

I bought an every day carry to work camera..Olympus xz-2..as it has remote socket...and can interface with the same timer I use on my 5D3.

Was in hospital for a few nights with broken arm..had camera..could not sleepand happend to be up to catch this from the hospital ward day room.

still not got the hang of removing the flicker in LRTimelapse..but its is an attempt if nothing else.

Can't seem to attach video here..is it me? so here is Youtube link

http://youtu.be/eYDOBRnOEfc

Yes probably should have left that out..but fuming at the time. That last response was actually the first thing i wrote..but thought i ought to put more

Of course, the old ways I was brought up on like you mention do work. That is the technique I have used on my F1n and earlier cameras all my life before all this modern new fangled auto focus and auto exposure came along. But that would be rather like buying an automatic car but always using the manual shifter.
Since the tech is there I'd like to try use it to its fullest ability. The camera is designed to track focus of a moving object, switch auto focus points etc. seems crazy to have a camera capable of all that and switch to full manual.
I agree there are places when I still use manual focus and exposure, but I had the chance to try out a shoot I would not normally get to do, so wanted to give the tracking focus system a try.

Thanks for the link. I found some others too, but not got them here on the phone.

It is the use and adjustment of how the switching/ tracking settings on page AF1 that are interesting me at the moment.

Think that centre plus 4 or centre plus 8 is the way to go for the cycling scenario, with the centre of focus moved up to the top of the screen . This will avoid the contrasty areas that the 61 point full screen focus mode was capturing.
Along with setting the AI servo shutter release mode to Focus priority.

The orher settings on AF1, still not sure of

Of course, the old ways I was brought up on like you mention do work. That is the technique I have used on my F1n and earlier cameras all my life before all this modern new fangled auto focus and auto exposure came along. But that would be rather like buying an automatic car but always using the manual shifter.
Since the tech is there I'd like to try use it to its fullest ability. The camera is designed to track focus of a moving object, switch auto focus points etc. seems crazy to have a camera capable of all that and switch to full manual.
I agree there are places when I still use manual focus and exposure, but I had the chance to try out a shoot I would not normally get to do, so wanted to give the tracking focus system a try.

Thanks for the link. I found some others too, but not got them here on the phone.

It is the use and adjustment of how the switching/ tracking settings on page AF1 that are interesting me at the moment.

Think that centre plus 4 or centre plus 8 is the way to go for the cycling scenario, with the centre of focus moved up to the top of the screen . This will avoid the contrasty areas that the 61 point full screen focus mode was capturing.
Along with setting the AI servo shutter release mode to Focus priority.

The orher settings on AF1, still not sure of

http://lrtimelapse.com/