It would help if you stated how much storage you need. 2T, 10T, 100T. There are a lot solutions available to consolidate into a single drive or maybe 2 - a large spinner for photos you don't think you'll access often and a smaller 2T for things you are actively expecting to use. I have an 8T RAID drive that is network accessible but be aware that Light Room Classic won't interface with a network source.

I'm far from being a LR expert but having gone through the failed HD issue more than once there are 3 things you need.
First of course is your catalog of photos. Second, as others have pointed out you need the install file not the files as installed on your old computer as well as the activation codes Third, what no one has mentioned you need the file(s) xxx.lrcat. You may have created in the past more than one catalog file but the lrcat file contains all the information on all of the edits that you have made on the photos assigned to that catalog. Without it, as far as the edits you made on photos, they are gone. Once you do the new install and start up LR it will look for a catalog file or ask you to create a new one. If it has created a new one find that file, rename it xxx.lrecat.old and rename your old lrcat file to the exact name the program assigned to the new lrcat when you started the the newly installed version of LR. The library file in LR will now show the file or folder names of the photos you edited in the past and the info was stored in your old LRCAT that you've now got the new LR install to recognize. The files will all have a "?" beside them because LR does know where you stored them and it will ask you to find the file. Often if you click on the original hard drive letter that had al the file and redirect LR to that dive it will then find all of the other files on its own.
If you can't find the install files come'on. Bite the bullet and sign up for the $9.99 per month subscription for LR and Photo shop. LR has come a longgggggggggggggggggggggggggg way since the version you have. Does some things you've never even thought about.

It seems you may be making a problem where this is none. I have for the past 21 years used a very basic yyyymmdd file naming protocol for any photo shoot. I download RAW files onto an external HD which is backed up both locally and on Backblaze remote B/U. If (rarely) there is a reason for additional visibility of a particular folder I can append that name with additional words like "Africa 2012" to make the folder more quickly accessible but since the folders are sorted by date it stays in the same chronological order. I have about 4 Tbytes of files of about every digital photo I've ever taken.
When I go to do post processing in LR I import into LR from the HD file but the basic files stays on the HD unchanged. The edit info is in the LR catalog files which I keep on the computer internal HD for speed purposes.
For any exports I have LR export to a sub folder that is a sub to the original dated folder for the photo shoot. So all work associated with the original shoot are in one master folder. Any extras, e.g. a slide show, are also sub folders to the original dated folder.
The only caveat on this is if you start moving files around its best done from within LR so that LR knows what you've done and can find the relocated file. If you move from outside of LR you need to go through the extra step of having LR find the relocated file which it does pretty well as long as you have some idea of where ypu may have put it.
This works pretty well for my aging brain where sometimes I can't find my glasses until I happen to look for them in a mirror.

This is exactly my understanding of how LR handles the editing of photos. If you want to see the edited photo outside of LR you need to output the edited version of the photo in some form that your computer's OS can interpret such as JPEG or TIFF. I generally create a JPEG to the file size that I think is necessary for the use I will have and tell LR to output to the same folder as the original RAW file. Or if I'm doing a bunch, output it to a new subfolder of the folder in which the RAW file is located. Simple, straightforward and makes if=t easy to find the edited pics in the future. You can also create a slideshow in Video format and put it anywhere you want as well but I stick to locating it along with the original RAW file folder.

And the admonition to be sure to lick your finger before sticking it into the empty socket while holding onto an adjacent steel water pipe for balance. Hey - if you want to kilt ypourslef its important to do it right.

Probably the 24-70 unless you're objective is wildlife pics. Then the longer the better.
As for parking, they've really messed with the parking over the past couple of years. What few parking spots are left along the roadways get filed with hikers taking the nearest trail so if you want to stop to take a pic of some scene you're well TOAST. Get in early and you can still park occasionally near where you might want to take a photo until about 10:00 AM. Much after that it's hopeless unless you have someone to drop you off, drive around the loop road and come back to pick you up. Whole set up is really only aimed at parking at the main tourist facility and using the bus. Really not a photographer friendly environment.

If the glass in the windows is double or triple pane you'll get multiple refract images - one for each pane. If you have multiple windows stacked you'll get double images from each window but the image offset will be proportional to the distance between glass panes.

Even better for the outdoor shooter is the EF-RF adapter with the built in CP filter. It enables adjusting the CP even when shooting handheld with the 100-400.

You're going to spend a lot more money on your Africa excursion than on your gear. My experience in Africa is you're going to need the most reach you can get and you're going to be shooting mostly hand held (standing up in a jeep with other people rocking the boat). Plus, when the action happens it's often over with in a few seconds. No time to be fumbling around with settings or lenses. You were either ready to go or you miss it.
So ....
Though I've just transitioned to an R5 from a 5vD IV and I'm still using my 100 - 400 with a 1.4 x teleconverter I'd make the following points.
Weight - isn't the issue the lens is heavy and the difference in the body weight is negligible by comparison.
Reach - nominally the same but the R5 will auto focus with a 2x converter even at f11 on the 100-400.
Complexity - these are both incredibly complex beasts and can do a lot. At 77 years there's no way I'll ever learn even a small fraction of what the cameras can do. But you don't need to know everything. Just set up a few custom settings (or get pro help to get you there) for situations like high speed action, low light, or another special situation and you can pretty much switch to what you need in a second or less.
Back Button Focus - If you're not using it try it but it'll take a few outings to change over your muscle memory. The key thing for me on BFF is that in the heat of battle for things like wild life shots and birds in flight I don't have the quick response to to coordinate a half push on the shutter release, focus, target tracking and keeping steady all at the same time. BBF effectively assigns the focus function to another finger which helps me out. The addition of IBIS in the R5 increases my success in getting good shots in fast moving situations.
Lastly if you don't already, shoot in manual mode as much as possible. On safari shoots I often can shoot all day with maybe changing exposure just twice from early morning, to sun a few degrees above the horizon, back to low evening light. Or, for wildlife and birds stay in shutter priority and let aperture or auto ISO handle the light. Keep shutter above 1/2000th and ISO above 2500 and shoot like there's no tomorrow.

I use remote tethered shooting particularly for unique situations like bird shots where you'll never be able to get close, pictures of the moon and stars where the camera angle is inconvenient or impossible to get behind the eye piece, also in mirror up situation (no longer an issue with the Canon R5) etc. In some cases for example the moon) photos I can sharpen the focus better than the auto focus does. The other advantage is getting the exposure optimized to emphasize the shadows particularity with moon photos. The bigger image will show you things the view finder or screen just can't do justice to.
Also allows you to work from a still sitting position if you're waiting for a bird or other wild life to enter the scene(Crested Blue Jays are notoriously flighty.)

You have a number of options available for the control software at least for Canon.

The Canon EOS utility supports tethered as does Canon Digital Photo Professional.
Light Room also supports tethered
I use these with my laptop computer that has a UHD display and a 10' to 12' USB cable. I also have a 100' USB cable for when I need to be totally out of the scene e.g. sitting in my vehicle. Could probably use Wifi as well but it tends to be a battery hog.
The software replicates most of the key camera settings and gives "jog" control of the focus allowing sharp focus on the target subject which may be hard to get quickly when your target area may have other nuisance branches and twigs in the way.

The advice I received from a Lightroom Sensei was to do the copy of the photo files to the new drive "FROM WITHIN LIGHTROOM". Then Lightroom will know where the files are. If you do the move from outside of lightroom then you may be faced with the laborious process of telling Lightroom where to find each folder or individual file. You can then change the drive letter if its important to you. The other piece of advice from this same person was, as mentioned above, to keep your Lightroom catalog(s) on your main system drive and keep them backed up These .lrcat files are not really big but contain all the editing info that you have done. Having the .lrcat files on your system drive will also speed up your editing process a bit. This is particularly true if you use an SSD as your system drive

I can't speak to the Mark II but the 1.4x/100-400 zoom does work with the Mark IV. The 2.0 x does not.

I want to underscore my comment regarding the Canon 100-400 in combination with the 2x TC on a 5D IV.
I went to by a 2x TC from a private party and when we tested it on my 5D IV it wouldn't autofocus so I didn't buy it.
I went home and checked with Canon Professional Services and they indicated the 5D will only auto focus up f8. The 100-400 f4.5 - f5.6 is above that with the 2x converter hence it wont work in any of the AF modes - very critical for shooting photos of fast moving wild life.

Bob
For your photography are you going to be on foot or wildlife jeep safaris? By and large on the jeep safaris you're not allowed to exit the jeep except at selected short rest stops AWAY from most wildlife. A tripod is useless in a jeep even as a monopod and some safari outfits won't permit a tripod. Unless you have the jeep all to yourself and maybe one other person. And beanbags to rest the camera on the window sill. NOT! The action is all around you and more than likely you'll be standing up doing a 360 regularly. As another suggested I'd keep the lens count to just 2 or 3. The 100-400 and the 16-35 to shoot an occasional broad view of wildlife everywhere. Most of your wildlife is going to be pretty small in the viewfinder even at 400mm. As to the 2x converter ??? as far as I know the 5D IV won't autofocus with the 100-400 + 2x so get the 1.4x. Probably 90% of my shots on 2 saris trips were with the 100-400 combined with the 1.4. And you do need autofocus.Things happen at warp speed in many cases. If you're fumbling around trying manual focus on a moving animal you're probably going to miss the real action. Just go to AI Auto backbutton focus and shoot shoot shoot. For a 3rd lens stick with the trusty 24-105 for the shots around the camp. Bring along a few large memory cards. Preferably the 128 GB. I'd take up too 1K shots per day and I can assure you that you'll often be a thousand miles from the closest replacement memory card if you get some failures. You might consider a good high power flash. Particularly in camping but also in some of the wildlife refuge camps there will be wildlife around you at night. Again it will be moving so you're not going to be able to use long exposure. I've at times had to use multiple flash shots just to locate where an animal is and then set a proper shot. Makes for some pretty dramatic photos.
With the reduced kit and a good wheeled backup I'm able to keep the load at less than 11Kg.

I've moved up to the Canon R5 so I want to provide others with a complete kit for 5D photography
Included:
- Canon (US) 5D IV body in excellent condition w/body cap and strap. Shutter count 52810 All connectors, buttons, displays working fine
- Canon 24 -105 L IS II USM f4 zoom including hood and front and rear lens cap No dings or scratches
- "L" Bracket for quick shift from horizontal to vertical format on tripod
- 2 Canon LP- E6N batteries
- Canon L6-E6 battery charger
- 2 Lexar 128 Gigabyte 160MB/s compact flash Cards
- 1 Lexar 64 Gigabyte 160MB/s compact flash Card
- 1 San Disk 192 MB compact flash Card w/ some manual and Canon software down loaded
- 1 each Sony and San Disk 32 GB micro sd cards in adapters
- 1 San Disk 64 GB micro SD card in adapter
- 1 USB Cable for camera for connection to a computer
- 1 Miniature HDMI to HDMI adapter for connection to a TV

All user manuals and Canon software are available online from usa.canon.com

All for $2400 includes insured shipping to your address in the 48 US states with some allowance for shipping to higher cost locations.
Contact stan@ostassoc.com - 650-851-1924

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