You mentioned the word "webnar" in your title. Is there one? or is it just a wish? There is a rather comprehensive setup guide on you tube by Hudson Henry for the Z9 and the Z8. They are quite similar because the Z8 is for all practical purposes just a feature or two shy of being a Z9. I downloaded the Z9 guide and the Z8 guide. The z9 guide is a series of 4 vidieos and the Z8 guide is a series of 2 videos and was very happy NOT to have to wade through the almost 1000 page online Nikon manual. I was particularly interested in the explanations describing the menu banks and their set up for maximum efficiency. I recommend them as a great starting point and then setting up your camera(s) for your personal needs. I have been hoping that David Busch would get a "How to" book out on the Z8. I have his books for the Z6 and D850. I constantly used them as reference when I had my Z6's. I traded my Z6's in for two Z8's so I no longer need my Z6 book. (If anyone is interested in having it PM me and I will sell it to you for about ½ I paid Amazon for it, (you pay the book rate shipping)).

I was going to recommend the P1000. (I have a P900 but they're almost the same), The P900 is my goto travel camera. On vacations I am not trying to create priceless images, I am only trying to preserve memories of sights and am mostly snapshooting. I do use a monopod both as a camera support and a walking stick. I also have a P100 which is much smaller and lighter but the zoom range is not as large. I am guessing it's about 24mm to 600mm, (equivalent), or thereabout. I bought the P100 from Goodwill as a non functioning, as is, camera. When I got it home I attempted to recharge the battery while it was still in the camera and got a warning message saying that there was a fault in the battery. I ordered two new batteries with an external charger, (surprisingly cheap ), on Ebay. When I inserted the new battery, after charging, the camera worked perfectly. Did I mention I paid $13 for the camera and less than $10 for the two batteries and charger? I am going to the Holy Land in November and will be bringing my P900 and will be carrying it on a belt holster. I also plan to bring a lightweight collapsible tripod. When you get back I'm sure we'll all be interested in your experiences. Good Luck and safe travels.

Wow oh Wow, I only regret that I am too old and feeble to get there. So glad you share or I would never see these wonderfvul places!

This was "down and dirty" photography, no posing, get the shot and move on, every five seconds. Camera worked beautifully once I had light, Lens was nikon 24-120 f/4. Students were wearing maroon gowns. I prefocused on the "N" on the backdrop before the student came into the photo depth of field did the rest.

I am very fond of Twain. I always quote his comment on his father's stupidity and how quickly he learned.

Update to my original post. . . Thanks to all who replied. All of the information given was greatly appreciated.

A caveat. I mentioned I was shooting several graduations. On my final graduation shoot my job was to take a picture of each graduate in front of a white step and repeat backdrop with the school's logo, holding their diploma, as he/she exited the stage. Another colleague was taking the actual grip 'n' grin on stage. We were photographing approximately 450 graduates at approximately 5 second intervals. I arrived early. I did test shots in the arena under the ambient lighting using an on camera fill flash. Each test shot was right on the money. (did I mention I love this camera!). The moment of truth arrived, and some yahoo thought it would be very dramatic to turn all the lights in the arena off, except for a spot light on the students as they received the diploma. The rest of the arena was in near darkness. The first student arrived in front of the backdrop, I pushed the button and. . . NOTHING happened. Five seconds later the next student arrived, then the third. . . I was frantic. By time the sixth student arrived I realized the problem was there wasn't enough light for the camera to focus. The camera sent out a green focus assist beam but in the darkness the camera refused to work. The camera will not fire if it cannot achieve focus. When I realized this I asked an assistant to open a nearby exit door to the outside allowing sunlight in. This allowed me to lock the focus on the backdrop before the students stepped in front of it. Once this happened everything went off without a problem. I only hope those first six will not be looking for their picture. In retrospect, even if I had the camera shutter set to trip regardless of focus. Those images would probably not have been of good quality.

Update to my original post. . . Thanks to all who replied. All of the information given was greatly appreciated.

A caveat, I mentioned I was shooting several graduations. On my final graduation shoot my job was to take a picture of each graduate in front of a white step and repeat backdrop with the school's logo, holding their diploma, as he/she exited the stage. Another colleague was taking the actual grip 'n' grin on stage. We were photographing approximately 450 graduates at 5 second intervals. I arrived early. I did test shots in the arena under the ambient lighting using an on camera fill flash. Each test shot was right on the money. (did I mention I love this camera!). The moment of truth arrived, and some yahoo thought it would be very dramatic to turn all the lights in the arena off, except for a spot light on the students as they received the diploma. The rest of the arena was in near darkness. The first student arrived in front of the backdrop, I pushed the button and. . . NOTHING happened. Five seconds later the next student arrived, then the third. . . I was frantic. By time the sixth student arrived I realized the problem was there wasn't enough light for the camera to focus. The camera will not fire if it cannot achieve focus. When I realized this I asked an assistant to open a nearby exit door to the outside allowing sunlight in. This allowed me to lock the focus on the backdrop before the students stepped in front of it. Once this happened everything went off without a problem. I only hope those first six will not be looking for their picture. In retrospect, even if I had the camera shutter set to trip regardless of focus, Those images would probably not have been of good quality.

Thanks to you and Chasgroh for the references

Yes, I saw that today. I would have probably bought one Z8 and one refurbished Z9 if I had seen the advert sooner.

Talk about GAS!!!! I started drooling about a month ago when I first learned about the new Z8 from Nikon. Then came the big announcement and the initial presentations showing its capabilities. Finally, May 25 was announced as the "ship by" date and B&H started taking preorders. I researched a bit further making sure that my XQD cards and ENEL15c batteries were compatible. Then I called my local camera store, (World of Photography, Columbus, Ohio), to see if they were taking preorders, because I like to support my local stores when possible, and they said yes. I did not expect to hear from them on May 25th as they are a smaller store and do not have the same clout as B&H et. al.
However, at ten AM my phone rang and I was told my cameras arrived. I got together my trade ins ( two Z6's) and a buncha other equipment I wasn't using to make the hit on the bank account lighter and headed out. Fifteen minutes later I was talking with store owner, Gary, who asked me if I would mind if he unboxed one of the Z8's. All of the store employees gathered round and everyone gawked at the camera. It seems I bought one of the first Z8's sold by that store in Columbus. When I returned home, I unboxed and registered the cameras with Nikon. Nikon's included manual is sparse, only 60 pages covering the bare essentials to get up and running. A fully fleshed out "reference" manual is available online in PDF format. So, after two hours I headed out to cover a high school graduation armed with the "basics". The camera performed flawlessly. Today I am getting into the nitty gritty of what the camera can do. At present there is very little on You Tube on camera set up etc. so I am relying on the "reference" manual, (written in Nikonnese(?)), to fill in the gaps. Hopefully, David Busch is preparing yet another Nikon tome on the Z8.
Two more graduations to go, Wahoo and HUZZAH!!!
Gilkar

I don't care what anyone says that cat joke is FUNNNNNNNNNNy!!!!!!!!! I am still laughing.

Thank you for your reply. I am having no trouble making my copy of the program work. I am having trouble remembering how to do it. I am fortunate enough to have printed a copy of the instructions, (144 pages), that I saved in an old loose leaf book so many years ago. My problem is in the creation of, and subsequent selection of and manipulation of, the text boxes so that I can add my exif data to them. Once I have that figured out, or an intrepid UHH user tells me how to do it, the problem will be solved. I seem to be forgetting more than I remember these days but at 80 years old I'm still learning, or relearning, new things. I have my fingers crossed that someone will have the answer.

Back in 2006 or thereabouts I bought Lumapix Fotofusion. I used it for a number of years and then moved on to other projects. I used it primarily to create composites for sororities and fraternities, (I'm in a University town). I now have a need for it again and I managed to find the program on one of my archived disk drives. To the best of my knowledge I have the last incarnation of the stand alone version, (Version 5). The program is now a subscription and I have no desire to upgrade as I only need to use it once. One reason for using the program is that it easily will create a photo-composite for headshots. I have about 200 heads that I have to place. I did the photography with my camera tethered to my computer using Lightroom. Lightroom allows me to rename the camera file to the students name on the fly, so for example IMG-202.jpg is renamed to Jones, J.jpg in the exif file. This enables me to use a feature in FOTOFUSION that allows me to import that file data without the .jpg extension and put it into a text box under the corresponding photo. This saves a huge amount of time as I do not have to manually type in each name under the picture. I know how to access this feature and do this one image at a time but I do not remember the procedure for doing it on multiple images at a time. I know how to create text boxes under each image by selecting all of the images and pushing the text box button, but the created text box appears with the hint, "double click this text to replace it". If I do not clear the text box of the "hint" I get, "double click this text to replace it Jones, J". I have tried selecting all of the text boxes and doing a global delete so all that remains is an empty text box but have not been able to get it to work. Once the text box is clear all one has to do is select auto fill and the exif data is automatically placed in the proper box. If anyone can tell me how to do this please respond. Your help will save me a lot of time and typing.
Thanks in advance

Thank you, I have already downloaded the program and have tried it. I am quite happy that it will accomplish in one click , the things that require several adjustments, and a good knowledge of the software that other programs offer. In other words a minimal learning curve. When adjusting several hundred images one click beats even 15 seconds of fiddling. I like the slider that shows the original side by side with the resulting image.

Thank you for your reply. I have been quite successful with my tethered imports into lightroom for client identification. As noted in my initial post, lightroom allows me to rename the file prefix. My assistant types each client name into the computer, just before I take the headshot. (This can also be done with Nilkon's camera control). When I import the images into my compositing software, (Lumapix 4, old but paid for software), the progam will "auto-magically" place the file name under the photo and drop the .jpg designation. I am trying to speedup the process by taking the excel spreadsheet, (which the client provides ahead of time), and have the list of names already in lightroom when I start photography. Then when each person comes to be photographed we simply click on their name from the alphabetical list already in lightroom and append the headshot to the name. The whiteboard solution you suggest is a good one but would require that I rename the files in post. I would have to do this in order to take advantage of the compositing software's feature of placing the names automatically under the correct photo. Without this feature placing the names under each photo would be quite tedious as it would have to be done manually for each picture.