Should be on 'Auto' if using the cameras 'Focus Shift' function.

I own both the Z8 and the Z 70-200mm a superb kit. It's not light but that depends upon how long you carry it, how and where doing what.

If you already have some Canon lenses what advantage do you see in changing brand.

Quick answer is no, because I have it already 'kicked in'.

I'll refer to my scenario where I am photographing people running towards me (or just as applicable to candids of people stood around talking). My camera is set up for AF-C and BBF using the AF ON button or alternatively you could use half shutter button press.

The camera is set to AF- area mode - '3D Tracking', with AF subject detection options set to either Auto, People, Animal, Car, Plane. I'll use the People option for this example.

In the viewfinder a white box is shown where the focus point has been selected, mine always remains on centre. As you move the camera and bring the white box towards the subjects face an additional smaller box will/may show if the camera has detected an eye. With the white box over the subjects face you press AF ON (or shutter half press) to activate auto focus.

At this point the camera locks focus on, in priority, the eye (if detected), the face (if no eye detected), treats it as an 'object' if neither eye or face recognized. In the rare worst case scenario if it recognizes neither an eye, face or object it reverts to Auto Area mode. With the focus locked on and AF ON kept pressed the camera can be repositioned or the subject move position (e.g. closer to you) correct focus will be maintained.

This will also work the majority of time if your subject is something such as a static telephone keypad or flower allowing quick easy composition reframing. It recognises objects within its focus box by color and contrast.

The Nikon Studio software indicates by the size of the red focus boxes whether it achieved AF using eye, face or object recognition.

Thank you for the explanation.

I've had the Z8 for some months now and could not be happier with the camera. The Z6 and D800 had been what I was using. The primary reason I got it was for the hope that its AF would make it 'easier' to focus and maintain focus on fast moving subjects, which were race competitors running towards, or, obliquely towards me. I have been amazed at its capabilities with respect to accuracy and consistency in achieving this.

I highly recommend having a play with the AF '3D Tracking' mode. For both moving and static subjects it can almost completely alleviate the need to ever move the 'focus point' from the centre position, allowing easier quicker framing for composition on just about anything.

Can you tell us which specific 'focus' mode/settings you used with the Z8 to capture this and why it was especially advantageous compared to other focus modes available in the Z8?

I would suggest you test that theory a.s.a.p. This may enable you to confirm if the problem is relevant only to either camera or either grip.

No similar problems with my Z8.

I can not think of any camera set up (menu option) within the Z8 that is going to cause a total shutdown, only a sleep mode that you can instantly wake up. Additionally, cards and buffer are extremely unlikely to shut a camera down.

You can undertake a "controlled" comparison using the same image with various software options.

Photographing a plain black/white/coloured surface at high ISO will enable you to play with removing the noise with the software's your are testing and they will all be able to do that from zero to total removal.

But, what that testing method is not going to reveal is 'real world' evidence of how that software has affected the fine hairs hanging over a subjects face when it is viewed at the size required for your intended output use.

Whilst 'being scientific' with a test as you suggest is an option, it's problem is that you are photographing something you never will under normal circumstances.

Defining what is acceptable to you in that case will be far more difficult than using something we commonly photograph and look at.

I have a few different choices of denoise tools. If I take one of my very high ISO noisy images there are a zillion (slight exaggeration) permutations of noise removal I can do.

Getting the odd result by working on your image from someone who may have not have even used their denoise software to its best possible ability will be of little value to you. Why not undertake your own testing, the majority of software has a trial period?

I'm absolutely amazed that there are those around who do not consider the absolute simple basics of investigating problems before suggesting such possible drastic and time wasting procedures.

The image you posted is 6000x4000px, this is the max (L) pixel image area of your D5300. It was taken with a 55-200mm lens at 60mm.

From the above it suggests all is normal with respect to subject distances.

What I meant to say was top pic is correct, lower pic inverted. All to do with the angle it was taken from.

Top pic.

Good work outlining them and here's how I had interpreted Deer 2. Not being a Deer expert, what is the possibility of Deer 1 with the antlers being that physical size compared to the others behind it?

(Download)

Thank you. Rusty was found in our garden almost nine years ago in a pretty sad state, he adopted us and is the most loyal four legged friend you could ask for. More pics here https://fijitime.smugmug.com/Birds-and-Animals/Rustys-Gallery/