Now that you have done your scouting trip ...

Marilyng,

Look up this item on Amazon. You will find some information about sticking it on the LCD viewfinder and problem/solutions. Hope that helps.

I assume that you are flying into a large commercial airport (Seattle?) in a reasonably sized commercial plane. If not, you might want to check what the plane model is and what restrictions that might cause for carry-ons.

But not past his prime!

Can anybody provide a comparison to Mike Hagen's book "The Nikon Autofocus System: Mastering Focus for Sharp Images Every Time 2nd Edition"? Things like target audience, topics covered, non-autofocus topics covered, cameras covered, clarity of examples, etc.

Glad you got a good canvas print, but I don't think the profile helped much. Each profile is for a specific printer with a specific paper at a specific Costco location. Specific printer means a specific serial number, not just a specific model. Costco doesn't supply profiles for off-site printers because they cannot (will not?) specify a specific printer or even a specific site.

If you are concerned about correct color and tones, make sure that you have a well calibrated and profiled computer/monitor. If you don't then let Costco autocorrect and do a series of trial and error tests (view, print, compare, adjust, view, print, compare, ...) until you can predict how your print will turn out when you look at the image on your monitor. Make sure that you can repeat the monitor settings, room light, room color, etc. once you find settings that will let you reasonably predict the print.

If you have a calibrated/profiled setup you can do better if you have your prints done at one of the Costco locations that have calibrated/profiled printers. Check https://www.drycreekphoto.com/icc/ for your location. If it has profiled printers, you will be able to use the profiles from Dry Creek Photo. Make sure that you grab the correct profile for the printer you will use and the type of paper.

See https://www.drycreekphoto.com/icc/using_printer_profiles.htm for what you should do. The discussion talks about Photoshop. A quick look will let you know that you will need to be fairly serious about this. The setup and process is not as onerous as it looks. It is tedious for the first time. This is a setup, you will not need to do this for every print.

Enjoy

Feedback:
1) The art quilts that I have seen are fairly low resolution patterns. If you want enlargements to lay out quilting patterns don't worry too much about the resolution. If you want enlargements to print to view and compare with the quilts, that is a different matter.
2) If you are talking long-term and plan on acquiring multiple lenses, then buy for the lenses rather than the camera body. Camera bodies are evolving rapidly. In the future you are likely to want to upgrade your body without abandoning your lens collection.
3) When I photograph flowers I generally put the camera on a tripod and down low. If you do that, think about how well you can use the camera viewfinder and/or display when the camera is positioned where you want it. Are you a mud crawler? Can you bend that low?
4) Why do you want a DSLR? The world is changing in terms of SLR implying the best quality in the 35mm segment. Is there something you want that requires a DSLR? If not, don't rule out mirrorless and other options too quickly.
5) How hard is it to get where you wish to photograph? It's an old maxim that the best camera is the one you have with you. A great system that you leave behind because it is too hard to tote doesn't help. Same thing if you don't go at all because of the bother of the gear.
6) Nikon and Canon are two very good lines. I think that you will find the differences matter to you far less than you might be led to believe from these replies.

Hope this helps.

FYI: I shoot with a Nikon D600 and Nikon, Tamron, and Sigma lenses.

@amfoto1 makes a good point about the polarizing effect being greatest when looking 90 at a 90 degree angle from the sun. The least effect is when looking 180 degrees from the sun (also 0 degrees). A 10mm lens has about a 100 degree field of view (wide dimension) when used with an APS-C sensor. That means you can compose a picture with sky ranging from 90 degrees from the sun (maximum effect) to 180 degrees (minimum effect) giving a very obvious darkening in only part of the sky. I suggest that you play with the combination BEFORE you start your trip to experience the variation. You will be able to see it when you shoot in the Park but you might forget to pay attention with the Park's grandeur in your sights.

Also, a polarizer can give you much richer foliage colors.

I am having trouble seeing indications of overexposure other than some bright spots in the water where there is some loss of detail. I do not know how these images compare to the images prior to editing. I don't have enough information to help.

I think that people would be able to help you better if you would supply an image with EXIF data that has had no post processing. Also, please provide more information. Give a brief explanation of the overexposed aspects of the image. Also give a brief explanation of what was different in the camera. Please include the camera model and the capture mode (presumably JPEG). Tell us if this is a continuing problem or just happened yesterday.

Should have read D7000.

I don't know about the D700, but if it is like the D200 and D600 you can set the built-in flash to work in commander mode while also providing some flash. I often have my built-in flash (with a diffuser) providing a low level of fill to soften the shadows created by the main off-camera SB-800.

If you feel that the supplied search function is less useful than Google's search, then use Google's search. Either go to the advanced search page https://www.google.com/advanced_search or include the term "site:uglyhedgehog.com" (without the quotes) in your search criteria.

Members on most fora tend to be more inclined to help if they feel you have spent some research effort before just asking. A search on "site:uglyhedgehog.com scanning slides" produced 795 results. This suggests that there is a large amount of discussion on the topic already. You may find enough information for your purposes. You may also find what additional information you need to include in your question in order to make it answerable.

Barring loss from the extra glass, a 1.4x extender lowers 1 f/stop, a 2x lowers 2 f/stops, and a 3x lowers slightly more than 3 f/stops (~3.17 stops - 3 stops would mean 1/8 the amount of light, it is slightly more because only 1/9 the amount of light is passing through).

True, but one stop below f/6.3 is about f/8.8. It is f/5.6 that is one stop more open than f/8. F/6.3 is about 2/3's of a stop above f/8.