Posts for: minniev
Jan 30, 2022 12:05:35 #
When you add a photo to an email in Apple Mail, there is a box that appears on the right hand side of your message header. It has various choices for Image size - small, medium, large, or full size. You can control the size of what you send them this way. If you don't select something, it will select a size for you and it could well be the small one which is truly VERY small. Some email services have different restrictions on image size, too, so that can be a factor.
Dec 31, 2021 14:53:33 #
Jimmy T wrote:
Why not delete the program(s), go to https://www.topazlabs.com/?gclid=CjwKCAiA8bqOBhANEiwA-sIlN_GOd81NoKLzsQLa01_mKBwFplM1oAglqLop26yZNyHNktFs3nj9URoCIpAQAvD_BwE log in and download your program(s) again?
Thanks but I have already done that twice to no avail. I have not gone to the length of dropping backwards to a prior computer OS which was the only thing Topaz could suggest. I’m well pleased with what I get from On One DeNoise so will stick with it for now. A new computer is in my future but not until the new, more customizable mac’s are released next year.
Dec 31, 2021 09:13:21 #
I was very happy with the Topaz DeNoise application till it quit working about 6 months after I bought it and Topaz was not helpful in solving it, eventually telling me I probably needed a newer computer. I then got the new On One denoise application and it runs fine. I actually like its results better than I got from Topaz. But the results could vary from camera to camera (I use an Olympus EM1 Mk3). Like any application, I’d always suggest someone test drive it before deciding.
Dec 11, 2021 08:01:52 #
skier wrote:
I realy like my old camedia Olympus master or viewer software but I can't get it to update on new mac pro
Site says something about cyber security issue. Any suggestions pr other "free" similar software?
Site says something about cyber security issue. Any suggestions pr other "free" similar software?
Several pieces to add to your answer:
1. I’m pretty sure Olympus Viewer softwares have been discontinued and replaced with a newer version called Olympus Workspace which is downloadable here https://support.olympus-imaging.com/owdownload/. Older versions of Viewer are likely not to be compatible with the new Mac pro’s or Macs running other recent OS systems from Catalina forward.
2. With the newer Mac OS versions, when we try to install any software that has not come through the Apple Store, we are likely to get warning messages that alert us to that fact, and we must adjust our system preferences in order to install it. Here is a link to explanations about this warning system. It does NOT mean the software is dangerous, only that Apple has not tested it. I have to bypass these kinds of messages fairly often when installing software I got directly from a vendor instead of from the Apple store. https://support.apple.com/en-gb/HT202491.
3. The photo management system that came on your new computer, Photos, is pretty good and sufficient for most users. It’s certainly compares favorably to the Olympus software. You should give it a try.
4. Others have given you lists of free softwares that might also meet your needs.
Dec 9, 2021 10:24:45 #
Dynamics5 wrote:
My Lightroom has become painfully slow after my 2017 imac with 2TB fusion drive with 64GB of memory. Any suggestions on how to remedy this? Operating system: Big Sur. Lightroom 7.
This sounds like you need some Apple help. I use a 2011 mac with fusion drive and 16 g ram and Catalina. it runs the current Lightroom and Photoshop plus other stuff and it is not particularly slow about it. Yours is much newer and better equipped so it doesn’t seem like it should be that slow. Have you optimized LR? Did you change anything just before the slowdown began? Do you have LR set to make large previews or do some other automatic task that’s consuming too much memory? Have you run the system utility software to look for problems? Have you checked to see which programs are using how much memory to see if you can spot anomalies?
If I were you I’d post on the Apple community forum and ask for help. (They will probably ask you to download and run the free version of Etrecheck and post the results.)I’ve had good luck chasing down weirdness with the help of those folks. Once I had a dying but not yet dead external drive that was creating a lot of gremlins and they helped me find it before it went out and created even worse problems.
And you can always take it in to the Apple store and let them run their deep diagnostics on it. There usually isn’t a charge for the diagnostics if they don’t have to fix something, but your machine may have to spend a few days with them.
Nov 30, 2021 08:50:28 #
John Matthews wrote:
I was under the impression the omd mark 3 has a selective and effective ND filtering system built in (software I presume).
It does, and it is a camera setting, so software for sure. It is handy but is not a substitute for a powerful external ND filter when you need one.
Nov 30, 2021 08:46:15 #
gfpresley wrote:
I am having trouble getting consistent focus (very few tack sharp) with my Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark III.
Any similar issues and solutions?
Greg
Any similar issues and solutions?
Greg
I use the exact same camera as you, and have no issues with focus (except my own errors
)Burkphoto has given you an excellent analysis and I agree with his thoughts on this. I shoot mainly landscapes and seldom use an aperture smaller than 8 unless I’m doing something very specific. Diffraction can be a real problem with this format. I am far more likely to use large apertures than I was with other camera formats, and have shot acceptable landscapes at 1.8 which seems unthinkable but m43 is just different that way.
My general landscape shooting settings on the EM1 -III: I keep IBIS on unless on a tripod, keep ISO low, use smallest/single point of focus with manual adjustment and focus peaking (SAF/MF). I have custom buttons set for magnifying the viewfinder image, for returning to my chosen single focus point, and moving the focus point without taking my eye from the viewfinder. And I have all my specific settings for landscape saved into custom slot C1 so I have a good starting place. I don’t use back button focus but have in the past, it is a matter of preference.
The lenses make a difference too. The 12-40 pro is on my camera most of the time, but I get good results from a handful of Oly and Panasonic primes. I did have one Oly lens, a 14-42 kit lens, that was a disaster, and everything I shot with it was fuzzy no matter what. Equipment failure is always a possibility, though user error is generally more likely.
I suspect that you are just adjusting to using a new camera that has a format different than what you’re accustomed to. It’s worth continuing to wrangle with. There’s not that many m43 users here compared to users of other formats but there’s more than when I joined so help can be had here. I also use the m43 forum on DPR for technical issues.
Nov 25, 2021 08:41:55 #
gvarner wrote:
This is just an opinion of mine but it seems like photography is populated more by men than by women, both in the professional realm and the amateur realm.
I will only speak to my own direct experience, but from that I share your conclusion. Photography is not very popular in my state (Mississippi), but I have traveled in 47 other states, and a dozen foreign countries. Because I’m a number nerd, I keep count of stuff just out of curiosity.
In my state I’ve encountered, over 12 years of shooting outdoor photography at least once a week, a total of 22 other photographers, and 4 of them were female. When traveling in other states, I see more photographers but similar or more male-oriented percentages. When traveling abroad, the percentages are about the same.
The only camera club in my geographical area has about 15 active members, of which 4 are female.
I have attended only one photography on-site workshop (in California), with 16 participants, of which 12 were male and 4 female.
I belong to 3 online photography forums. The vast majority of the posters in all of them are male. In the two smaller ones, I am the only female who posts regularly.
The professional photographers who do baby, children, and family portraits in my area are predominantly female. Bridal photographers are mostly male but females make up about a fourth of the ones at a bridal services fair.
I don’t offer any theories, just observations.
Nov 22, 2021 10:21:45 #
CHG_CANON wrote:
If our OP used Apple instead of Windows, they may find the way is shut, in that the older / unsupported LR versions can't be installed and run on Apple's newest equipment.
Perhaps. I didn’t try to install the old V5 on my mac, I just located the link to download it again.
And the latest Apple equipment is quite different than the old.
Nov 22, 2021 10:09:56 #
Rloren wrote:
I bought Lightroom outright in 2017. Went to download it in my new computer from my Amazon library and it wouldn't load. Adobe Support told me that version has been decommissioned. Now I have to pay monthly if I want it. I'm no lawyer, but isn't that called " theft."?
I bought Microsoft Office 2013. Contacted Microsoft, " You bought it son, it's yours, here is the download for the new computer."
No problem, but Adobe?
I bought Microsoft Office 2013. Contacted Microsoft, " You bought it son, it's yours, here is the download for the new computer."
No problem, but Adobe?
Actually, I got the same “decommissioned” response from Microsoft Office when I recently tried to install it on a new system. “Out of date, to use it you must buy a subscription”. They did provide a workaround to open my old files but I can’t edit them. I don’t want a Microsoft subscription so I switched to Libre Office which is free, and can open/export to Word.
Now, for the Adobe problem. Try this link. https://community.adobe.com/t5/download-install-discussions/download-non-subscription-adobe-software/td-p/11919842/redirect_from_archived_page/true. I did try it out of curiosity and was able to access the download link for my purchased version of Lightroom 5, the last version I bought before I subscribed. Personally, I have no problem paying that $10 a month for Lightroom, Photoshop and a trove of other goodies because I have way more than $10 worth of fun with it and I love getting all the new features, but everybody’s needs/wants are different. And my subscription costs me far less than the old “purchase” plan used to cost me, because I “purchased” LR and PS about every other update, and those prices added up.
If this link doesn’t work for you and you still don’t want to subscribe, you might look at other software alternatives outside of Adobe’s offerings. There are some that are free, others that allow you to purchase “rights” to use (we never really owned the software itself anyway). Good luck with this effort. With computers, there is always one hassle or another.
Nov 16, 2021 20:40:08 #
JD750 wrote:
Can you do this with full size raw files or does it only work with reduced size jpegs?
Yes. My raw files average around 20 mb so they’re not as big as those from a full frame and I can’t speak to those. But my iPad Pro which is now about 5 years old handles the raw files easily. I download directly into Lightroom, edit, then the full size raw files move themselves to my desktop computer when I get home, with the edits. Those I’ve taken into PS on the ipad go back to LR and then on to my desktop computer. The only time I run into trouble is when I have more pictures than my basic Adobe cloud can hold, then I have to wrangle around with it in phases.
The only time I ever run into unexpected compression is when I take a side trip through Apple Photos, where odd things can happen.
Nov 14, 2021 00:04:04 #
Several years ago I replaced my old MacBook Pro with an iPad Pro with plenty of space for photos. I use it for lots of things - reading, web browsing, typing (with a Zagg keyboard) and photo editing (with the Apple Pencil) in Lightroom, Photoshop, Photos, and a ton of other aps like Procreate, IColorama, etc. My desktop mac remains my primary photo workstation with LR Classic, Photoshop and my other more “serious” photo tools. But when traveling, or when I want to tinker a bit while watching TV, I use the ipad. I use Adobe cloud to move the photos from the ipad (along with their edits) back into LR Classic once I get home. Then I delete most of them from the IPad and from Adobe cloud. That way I don’t need extra cloud space and I don’t clog up the ipad with too much stuff. This system works well for me. But everyone’s needs are different.
Oct 26, 2021 12:22:36 #
Jim-Pops wrote:
I now have a 2019 MacBook Pro with 32 g ram that I... (show quote)
The new release of LR has persuaded me to attempt to upgrade the dinosaur to Catalina. This will murder a couple of older programs I like that are not 32 bit, but for reasons I can’t explain, I decided to take the gamble.
Oct 26, 2021 08:16:12 #
Jim-Pops wrote:
Minniev,
Thanks for your kind remarks. I'm sorry your computer asks up using Smart Objects. Do you remember how much ram/memory, you have?
Jim
Thanks for your kind remarks. I'm sorry your computer asks up using Smart Objects. Do you remember how much ram/memory, you have?
Jim
It is maxed out at 16 g ram, but it’s a dinosaur, going on 13 years old, so I’m not shocked it won’t do everything. I’ll replace it when Apple releases configurable desktop mac’s with the new M chips. The SO problem has to do with graphics processing. With the GP off, some things don’t work. With the GP on, other things don’t work. I picked my poison, and with the chosen poison, I seem to give up only smart objects and some functions of Liquify. (It is interesting what the SO’s do - rectangular chunks of the image disappear or relocate to other parts of the screen - it was a chore to diagnose the cause and cure.)
Oct 25, 2021 16:18:21 #
Jim-Pops wrote:
I now have a link, reduced picture size, to my Pho... (show quote)
You've done a great job of explaining how to work with layers and adjustments to build a composite. It's easy to follow and anyone who has been mystified by the process can solve that mystery if they are inclined, using the steps you've laid out.
I use a very similar process to yours. The only difference is that I don't use smart objects. My old computer will run the latest version of Photoshop (and I do like having all the latest toys), but is allergic to the latest incarnation of smart objects and will do various kinds of mischief when I try to use them. I stick with adjustment layers, masks, and groups. If anyone else is having smart object trouble, don't let it deter you from the fun of composites. Photoshop almost always has several ways to accomplish similar tasks.
Thank you in behalf of everyone. A great series to bookmark and return to.