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Nov 16, 2013 07:25:55   #
BuckeyeBilly wrote:
Not trying to pooh-pooh anyone else's response to you, but if they have not identified themselves as a Florida attorney, then you're playing a crapshoot game. This forum is NOT the place to be asking about legal jargon. Find a local attorney who can advise you on what this means under Florida law.


This is not complicated, no lawyer needed. Imagine selling your car to a company. Would you have the right to knock on their door next week and ask for the keys so you can take the car on vacation, of course not. CaptainC is exactly correct. You take the picture, you sell the picture, it's gone and you never get to use it again. Just like the car. Now, if you don't like those terms, then you might want to look to a lawyer with experience in the area to help you negotiate changes in the agreement that are common in the industry. Also as the Captain said, do not look to make a fortune on the sale of your picture. There are lots of sources for pictures. Unless yours is both highly unique and badly needed by the buyer, they will probably just tell you to go away if you want to change their normal agreement, including the price they are willing to pay. Let us know how it turns out.
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Nov 3, 2013 09:07:49   #
mborn wrote:
Ditto
I have D3s D800 and the D7100 and use them interchangeably


Great, then you are in the perfect position to show us a comparison between the D3s and the D7100 in a low light situation where the ISO needs to be at least 10000 with a shutter speed of 1/500th of a second an at F4.0.
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Nov 3, 2013 08:11:41   #
mvetrano2 wrote:
Can someone explain the real differences between a full frame camera and an APC format camera. It seems to me that the higher end APC cameras have more to give than the full frame versions. They are somewhat less expensive, lighter, smaller, have more lenses available to them and the sensors seem to be more advanced. Am I missing something here? I currently own a Canon 40D and T3i, both are APC, and as stated in a prior post, looking to replace the 40D with either a 70D or 7D, also both APC. I have gotten some very informative responses with suggestions on these to cameras, but also many suggested going to a full frame format. I looked into some comparisons on line between some full frame Canons and the 70D, or 7D, and fail to see any real benefits to purchasing a full frame version.
Can someone explain the real differences between ... (show quote)


For me and the type of shooting I do, the FF sensor is far better than the crop frame sensor because of its ability to get good action pictures in low light. Anyone can go to the dPreview site and compare low light/high ISO capabilities of all the major cameras. If you do that you will see clearly that none of the crop frame cameras are as good at high ISO as the Nikon D4 or the Canon 1Dx or even the generation old Nikon D3s. So, if you're going to do your best at ISO 10000+, F4 and 1/500th of a second, you need one of those three cameras, all full frame.
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Nov 2, 2013 13:59:54   #
charles brown wrote:
Why is it going backwards? I see it more as going in a different direction. The capabilities of the bridge camera is constantly improving. There is a Panasonic bridge camera on the market that has a Leica lens with f2.8 through all focal lengths. I think many forget that today's DSLRs are very sophisticated computers and it is just a matter of time before camera processors will be able to make up for shortcomings of the lens. Think about it, it was just a short time ago when many of the features in todays cameras had to be purchased as software for use in PP.
Why is it going backwards? I see it more as going ... (show quote)


It's not really a question of lens quality between DSLR and bridge cameras. It is, in my view, more a question of sensor size and all of the differences that make.
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Nov 1, 2013 13:50:51   #
physicsbob wrote:
One thing to check for is are there floresent lights in the room you re shoot in. The old lights flicker at 1/120 second, some of the newer ones withan electronic balast flicker at a much higherfrequency. they will all cause this effect if the shutter speed is not substanually slower than the flicker of the lights


This is exactly right. There is nothing wrong with your camera, it's lens, shutter or sensor. You can deal with this in post, but it's not easy. Change your lights to tungsten and you should be alright.
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Oct 30, 2013 13:09:31   #
Zophman wrote:
My research indicated the 7100 is the best value today. I just wanted to verify if my opinipn was valid. My intention was not to waste time for anyone. If I did, please accept my apologies.


You still don't know if your opinion is valid. You just know that it is shared by several others. Also, don't worry for a second about wasting anyone's time. This site and it's contents are completely voluntary. Reading and responding here is not a life requirement. If someone thinks that reading your post, or more likely, mine is a waste of time they can just move to another thread, or another site, or maybe just move, Arctic?
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Oct 30, 2013 12:57:07   #
[quote=Thurm]I'm thinking about buying a cannon sX50. Already have a Nikon D90 with 2 kit lenses (18-105, and 55-200) that came with the camera. I am not so much into technical perfection as I am into composition. I don't use any fancy post photo software. Picassa Is about as far as i have gone. I think a bridge camera will fit the bill for me. three questions:
1) am I over optimistic about the capabilities of a bridge camera. Probably.
2) will I run into some unforeseen compatibility complications mainly utilizing the available Nikon software for my D90 and available Cannon software for the SX50?? Don't think so.
3) if I some day get into more sophisticated post processing, (probably photoshop) will the software work seamlessly between Nikon and Cannon? Very hard to predict what will be seamless in the future.[/
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Oct 30, 2013 12:44:47   #
Sinbad wrote:
In a word no.


:thumbup:
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Oct 30, 2013 12:41:24   #
buglinbilly wrote:
I was talking with a friend yesterday and he wants to take one of my photos and do a full wall scene in his newly remodeled home.

The photo is a very sharp scenic view, with a couple of elk standing in the foreground and some huge mountain scene in the background.

The photo is only 10 mega pixel, so I know without doing something, it can't be blown up to the size he wants without running it through some sort of program.

With that said, I was talking with a guy last summer when I was out shooting some wildlife photos that told me he no longer worries about mega pixels and his only concern is getting a good sharp photo because he said there are several good programs out there that will allow you to blow up the photo to almost any size you want without loosing the quality of the photo.

Now my question-----Is he correct, and if so what program or programs do you suggest, and how big could one blow up a 10 meg photo with them and still have the quality that was in the original photo? And if such programs exist, how much are they, and how hard or easy are they to use for a handicapped computer person?

I can't think of a better place to bring this question than to UHH for a fast and accurate answer.

I appreciate your reading and responding.

Have a great day. BB
I was talking with a friend yesterday and he wants... (show quote)


Perhaps you and your friend should look at Fathead.com. I don't know if they make murals as large as you want, but perhaps they do.
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Oct 29, 2013 17:35:03   #
SteveR wrote:
This link helps to explain a lot. When you look at the "circle" photo it will help explain a lot. The circle is what the lens projects to the sensor. The large rectangle is what a full frame sensor sees. The small rectangle is what a crop sensor sees. You'll notice that the image in the center that the full frame and the crop sensor sees is the same size. The crop sensor has no extra "reach." A 50mm lens only sees 50mm. It is merely a difference in the angle of view, and when you print those two rectangles on similar size paper, the image in the smaller rectangle will come out larger than that same image in the larger rectangle because the larger rectangle sees not only the center image, but surrounding image as well. This is what gives crop sensors the illusion of reach.

http://www.garydatesphotos.com/2010/full-frame-lens-on-cropped-sensor/
This link helps to explain a lot. When you look a... (show quote)


Thanks for the clarification. I think it was that illusion of reach that confused me. It seemed like real reach to me.
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Oct 28, 2013 17:53:24   #
SteveR wrote:
That would be the "field of view" of a 42mm-105mm. It would not, however, have the "reach" of a 42mm-105mm.


What? I don't understand the difference between reach and field of view please help.
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Oct 28, 2013 15:35:14   #
Festus wrote:
10 yr. old or 30 yr. old?


10, 30 can't be good enough to mortgage the ranch for. :-D
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Oct 28, 2013 08:29:19   #
Festus wrote:
To join you I just poured a we bit of Lagavulin, my favorite single malt. Might it just be my monitor? I saw a lot of red specs in the blue quilts. May just be color abnormality of my monitor. And I believe you are correct, the lens should not create noise, unless you drop it!


See, if you would switch to Laphroiag (sp), my choice, those red spots would immediately go away. :-D
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Oct 27, 2013 18:15:41   #
joer wrote:
Recently down loaded ver 2.8.1 of ViewNX2 and I can't add it in Photo Gallery Open With list.

Its the 64bit version but it is not shown in Program Files (x86)
but it is in Program Files.

I've tried to add it the conventional way and also though Control Panel Default Programs. Nothing works.

Hey all you Nikon shooters; any suggestions.


I am quite illiterate when it comes to matters of the computer. So , take my ramblings with a grain of salt. I don't think 64 bit programs are located in the x86 folder. There should be another folder just labeled programs where the 64 bit programs are located.
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Oct 27, 2013 16:55:44   #
Festus wrote:
Lots of noise.


I want to respond to this but I don't quite know how. You and I have an entirely different perception of what "Lots of noise" looks like. I blew up a portion of the quilt with a single color and a smooth material and I did not see any noise. Maybe it's my tired old eyes or that old devil, scotch, that is causing my different viewing of this picture. I do a lot of shooting at ISO 10000 and above. Now in my view that's lots of noise. The poster's point was that one does not have to use the best glass to make a very good picture. The presence or absence of noise does not, so far as I know, have anything to do with the quality of the lens. If I'm wrong on this point, or any other for that matter, I will look forward to being corrected and learning something new. Monologue over, sipping scotch, waiting for replies.
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