One point to consider is that there is a much broader choice for lenses for APS-C format Canon and Nikon cameras. Sony comes in third.

If you rarely make prints larger than 8 X 12, the lenses with great zoom ranges make for an all purpose lens. Way back when, I got a Sigma 18-250 mm zoom. It is my carry around lens. When I first started with a 35mm film camera (back in the 70's), I found that wide angle was as important, if not more often useful, than telephoto.

I recently upgraded to the 80D. I love it for several reasons over the T2i it replaced, better low light performance, and, to my surprise, a very handy articulated touch screen.

As for Wi-fi, I tried using it to Xfer photos to my computer after a concert. I found it much slower than the USB cable (USB 2). On the other hand, if used with a smartphone, you would be able to move a photo from camera to phone to posting on the internet. There is also the ability for remote control of the camera, as others have stated.

Another thought, if you get Canon for her, you might find you prefer using it yourself rather than the 20D. :)

It is also my walk around lens. My only complaint is the creep. If the camera is left pointing down, it zooms all the way to 250, up and it zooms down to 18. Other tan that, I love it. Right now it is on my Canon 80D.

Matisse; Why is it time to buy another camera?

I agree with "Impressionist". It is most important WHY you want a new camera body.

1) Are the images you currently get lacking some how? Is so, how, and is it the camera or lens at fault (you haven't said what lens you use)?
2) Is there something the current camera can't do? My last upgrade had nothing to do with image quality (IQ) or resolution. I wanted a much better focusing system, both normal and "live view" as well as an articulated screen. I found that a touch screen is also very handy as the body I got has it.
3) Do you want the latest and greatest for the sake of it - buy the body.

Back when I was in film, I eventually got sick of photography magazines because I kept reading about newer cameras that couldn't take better pictures than what I needed (the largest prints I made were 8 X 12), so I didn't renew my subscription.

Have you contacted B&H to have them correct the situation?

Only true if a low level format was done. Otherwise, as already stated, just the directory is cleared.

Heck - Sunspots are cooler areas of the sun's surface. They have a 22 year cycle. So what?

The distinction is irrelavent to solving the problem.

1) You have not told us what is disappointing you with your present equipment. Perhaps that plus a sample photo would help us give better advice. It also would give us a chance to review the EXIF data to look for ways to improve the photo taking.
2) You indicate you use manual focus. Modern cameras focus better than humans. Can that be your problem?

As far as choosing new equipment (if you really need or want to)

3) As already stated, Nikon and Canon by far have a greater selection of lenses.
4) One significant advantage of full frame over APS-C is ISO sensitivity, as pixels in the sensor are larger and collect more light. However, from what you indicate is the type of photography you do, low light sensitivity doesn't seem that important.
5) the other advantage possible is with the same size pixels, they can pack in many more of them and increase resolution (as far as MegaBytes) but the number of lines per mm is the real indicator of resolution.

One way they can get around the controlled price is if you buy anything else along with the main purchase, a memory card, a spare battery, a lens filter, etc. then they can "reduce or eliminate the price" of the main item

The Canon PowerShot G3 X has a 25X zoom (24-600mm) for $900

It is known as the T6i here in the states.

If you have a Windows computer, Microsoft's Movie Maker is free and rotates video.

I had a 18-135 lens (Sigma) but for the type shooting I do (live concerts in a small theater) I needed a longer reach. I then got a Sigma 18-250. I disagree, I can and do crop shots taken at 250. I'm sure there are better lenses (the 70-300L for example), but for my purposes, that lens is more than adequate and covers a tremendous range.

In order to properly use any mode it is necessary to understand the relationship of what I call the holy trinity, f-stop or aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. The proper combination of those three is necessary to obtain the proper exposure. Each influences the amount of light captured, but impacts the image obtained in a unique way.

F-stop has a large impact on depth of field, which is the range of distances in focus. The larger the number (which is the smaller the lens opening) the more is in focus. A large number is good for landscapes to keep the most in focus, a small number is good for portraits to blur the background.
Shutter speed has a major influence on stopping action, or blurring (as in a creek).
ISO can be used to balance the other 2, but the more it is increased, the more it will add "noise".

My first "automatic" camera had only one automatic mode, shutter speed preferred. I chose this type to help insure minimizing shake due to hand motion. I chose a speed adequate for that and let the camera choose the aperture (F-Stop) appropriate for the film speed (ISO).

Once you become experienced in these concepts, then you would need to learn when you need to intentionally increase or decrease the amount of light captured, or the exposure rather than accept what the camera metering indicates. I think that is best left for the future.