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Feb 5, 2023 14:16:13   #
Picture Taker wrote:
Can't live in fear all your life.


No, but you also don't need to stumble off the curb in front of a truck!
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Feb 5, 2023 14:04:46   #
Car rental outfits deal with that type of insurance: just during a trip. Travel agents can also turn you on to that type of insurance. But zero deductable is a problem, because it invites fraud. Insurance is to share the burden of risk between many individuals. Those who don't file claims pay the claims of those who do.

So, the basis of insurance is assessment of risk, not an absolute guarantee of zero losses no matter what. If that's what you want, you should just put 2500.00 in a bank account, and if you suffer a total loss, there you go. There are ways to minimize the risk. Don't use new bags, or leather bags. Put a tag on the case that reads, "Stool samples" in Italian.

But use something that's well worn, and not specifically a camera bag, like an old suitcase, or well-worn Pelican case. EBay has everything you could want. Italian eBay might have a 'contminated biological waste' label in Italian The symbol is the same in every language. And you can translate the site with Google Translate. You just copy and paste the URL into Google Translate, and from then on eBay.it will be translated into the language you chose.

A skull and crossbones works the same way. But don't label it 'explosives', because that's illegal. You just need to make the next guy a better mark than you are. Convince the thief to move on.
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Feb 5, 2023 01:29:43   #
Trying to skimp on equipment until you know you'll use it is like having a hot-plate in the kitchen to see if you should get a 4-burner cooktop. We learn to live within self-imposed limitations, and we don't know any different, because we have no experience in what we don't have.

I have a 300mm that works pretty well as a macro, but I wouldn't use it to photograph small objects close up, because I have a 1:1 macro lens. Macro photography is about maximum magnification while preserving excellent image quality. Macro lenses have excellent magnification compared to all other lenses. But if you try to adapt a single-burner hot plate in place of a 4-burner cook-top, you'll get by with the single burner, and you'll never know the difference!

You can buy whatever you want on eBay, and sell it later if you never use it. You'll lose a little, but the experience gained--to really know for sure--is worth it.

I have an uncle who shoots film to this very day. I asked him why. He said, "I looked into the two options: film and digital, and decided film was what I wanted."

Rather than come right out with, "You're a bonehead!" I said, "What was it that sold you on film over digital?"

He came back with, "Are 'you' trying to tell me what 'I' need!? Who are 'you' to tell me what 'I' need!?

Rather than say, "I'm God. I know everything," just to piss him off even more, I said, "I just asked what you liked about film over digital."

He said, "I told your Mom you were going to be a problem when you were only a baby! You're a smart-ass, to damn intelligent for your own good! Now look at you, telling your elders what they need! All that fancy schooling ruined you! You have no respect!"

So I told him, "Then you're admitting film was a bad choice. It's not too late to change."

He replied, "I guess you're not that bad. But that whole computer thing, and editing. See, I saved myself from learning all that crap!"

So I said, "I'll get you another beer. You'll feel better in no time."
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Feb 1, 2023 06:03:19   #
I never knew there was that much to think about. JPG uses lossy compression. So, if you're going to do more post than cropping, JPG can leave you with pathetic results. But for mostly everything I shoot I just use JPG, because the shots are single use for documentation or eBay, or close-ups without much need for post. And for publishing online, JPG is certainly fine.

But if I was doing glamour or fashion, where there's more post than original shot, no way will JPG work. Still, JPG is suitable for 99% of all photos. I do disagree that it's natural. Nothing about digital photography is natural. It just uses algorithms to make it look natural in the end. But if you look at a printed image closely, especially a large one, it doesn't look good at all, because of all the interpolation.

But it looks natural as a whole from a normal viewing distance. Film photography looks much more natural than digital when you closely examine a print. Truth be told, if I'm shooting raw, when I'm done I'll set the camera back to jpg, so I don't forget. I've gotten some fantastic jpgs that look perfect on a 32" monitor.

I get the gist of the op. It seems lacking in understanding of the jpeg standard for image representation. Jpeg's real purpose is to save space on disk, back when that was important, like in the 1990s.
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Feb 1, 2023 05:27:09   #
User ID wrote:
Rather obviously avoiding the OPs question. Pure Hogsterism.

Nothing wrong with suggestions the OP may have not contemplated. How many times have you benefitted from a suggestion you hadn't thought of. If you know better you should make it known, or the angst of all those you failed is on your head. What's better? Copying slides one at a time, or just loading a hopper with 400 or so, and walking away? Or, if they're in carousels, you can get an adapter to just copy them right out of the carousel, and put them back. I'd rather do it that way.

But some people were raised on criticism. So, that's all they know how to do. It actually requires effort to build up and nurture, whereas any hack can find fault with everything!
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Feb 1, 2023 02:13:03   #
I'd definitely use a scanner for that job. You get a much better image, and it's automated. Although, if you only have 10-20 slides, it's probably tolerable to use a camera. You just won't get nearly the resolution of a scanner. I have a 18-year-old Canon negative/slide scanner that scans at 63MP. I can only imagine what's available now!
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Aug 13, 2022 20:29:07   #
MrPhotog wrote:
Working backwards on those three points:

3. You can easily shoot 300 frames of film and delete what you don’t want. It is a bit more expensive to do in 2022 than it was in 1999, but still very do-able.

Simplest way is to just shoot the negatives and scan those, or have the film’s processor do the scanning. By not getting paper prints you save a lot of money. The negatives are scanned anyways these days to make digital prints. Yes, it does cost more, but the negatives themselves have an artistic, and even archival, value.

If you are working in Black and White, using 35 mm film, processing the negatives (only) requires just a small investment in time, space, equipment, and chemicals. And the film is still available in long (bulk) rolls, which lowers the cost per frame. This is a wonderful introduction to chemistry, particularly, but not exclusively, silver-based processes.

- - - - -

2. Old cameras have a certain charm. I have been buying old cameras—usually ones that are broken and not worth fixing—when I can get them for $5 or so. I’m buying models that match what I already have so I’ll hopefully be able to use them for spare parts 20 years from now. And I tinker with them to see what made them work.

Surprisingly, I’ve been able to get a few working again. They were just jammed, or needed to be cleaned or lubed. Camera repair may become a new hobby for me! These days it is quite cheap because there are so many ‘projects’ available.

What has also become cheap is old lenses. I’ve been able to buy some lenses now that were unaffordable (for me) years ago. They fit on my Sony digital with readily available adapters. So one old lens is new fun with both the old film camera and the digital body. It is another incentive to carry two camera bodies and shoot film alongside digital.

Film ( and the associated cameras) may be Obsolete, but so are trains, and bicycles; Radio and vinyl records; and many more things still being used, and enjoyed daily. Musical performance goes back thousands of years, dramatic performance goes back to the ancient Greeks, so does Olympic sports. Horse racing is obsolete too. So is last year's computer and cell phone. I guess I may be too. But obsolete is not the same as useless.

1) It is the process. We can learn new things by going back over older things, looking at their history, and wondering: What if this had been a bit different at this point?

You see this now with the ‘Steampunk’ movement that shows how modern machines and concepts could have been made with more primitive processes (steam powered rather than electric, for example) if the idea had gone through a different origin process.

Even if we aren’t trying to reinvent things, there was a certain charm to the older photo process. You got to use your head to calculate exposure, or you gambled on it and then tried to get the best print you could from a less-than-optimum negative. The mental challenge is as addictive as playing with Sudoku or crossword puzzles, but it may involve other areas of the brain than those used in math, logic, or language. It can lead to as pleasurable an experience as a glass of wine. (and yeah, wine is obsolete too, but still well loved)
Working backwards on those three points: br br 3... (show quote)


I own a 35mm film camera, 1 lens, and a lot of old odds and ends from the film era. I also have film in the freezer from the film era. And, yes, putzing with ultra-cheap, defective, once-valuable gear could be a amusing pasttime. I just don't have time for it. But, maybe someday.

If I ever had a reason to shoot film I would. And I used to for astrophotography, because digital took a while to get long exposures correct. For a while film was far superior in that application. I just can't part with the 1 film body I have. I'm afraid I might need it!

I pull it out from time to time to work the shutter and wind mechanism,, keep a good battery in it, store it carefully. But I just can't imagine any use for it in the current era. The 'look' unique to film were a collection of shortcomings, not intentional characteristics. Cameras can digitize the film 'look' using filters, but that is only to make the photos look like they were taken in the film days long past, not because it looks good!

You can do the same with video, to make it appear any age desired. I'm a live and let live kind of guy. But I'm also aware of the ancient maxim: "There are limits to human intellect, but no such limits exist on stupidity." Everyone on UHH is dealing in reality. I don't really need to write that digital is better than film, because I think deep down everyone pretty much agrees.
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Aug 13, 2022 12:11:41   #
bsprague wrote:
"Considering the price of film and processing, I'm glad I'm shooting digital."

I doubt I would still be doing photography if it was still limited to film. I would choose to not spend that much money! One single roll of CineStill ISO 50 and some processing pays for a couple months of Lightroom and Photoshop! I shoot a lot more than 36 exposures in a couple months! An Adobe plan at $10 per month is cheap in comparison to film photography.

That said, I have a (very smart) granddaughter. She bought an old Nikon to shoot film. She sends the film out for processing and pays for digital copies along with the negatives. She puts the digital copies in her iPhone for processing and sharing. Grandpa does not get it.
"Considering the price of film and processing... (show quote)


If she's very smart, why does she shoot film, have if digitized, and then transfer the images to her phone. She could just use the camera in the phone. That would be a lot less trouble, and ahe'd have the photos right away. I would never purchase an old film camera. WHY?, because film is obsolete. It's not even fun to shoot film. You might as well throw expermentation out the window, because you can't just shoot 300 frames and delete what you don't want.

That reminds me of another thing. I see many guys talking about flack from their wives when it comes to purchasing more camera gear! I have an agreement with my concubine, "I won't tell you how to have babies and keep house, and you won't tell me how to buy camera gear." It works great! I just want to buy what I want, because I need it, without all kinds of interference from my woman. I don't keep her around to listen to her talk! She understands that. Unless she wants to say something sexy.
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Aug 13, 2022 11:42:02   #
worldcycle wrote:
I’ve solved that problem long ago. I travel quite a bit and sometimes you need a monopod and others, a tripod. My answer is the. Benro Mach3 9Cx. A beefy carbon fiber tripod that converts to a monopod. Quality all the way. Heavy? Yes, a tripod should be heavy to support gear and to dampen vibration. Otherwise, what’s the point?


Every decent tripod has a hook to tie a bag of gear to, to give it weight to dampen vibration. You definitely don't want a heavy tripod! You want a stout, rigid but light tripod. Carbon-fiber composite is ideal.
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Aug 13, 2022 11:28:51   #
dvbird wrote:
Is my camera worth fixing?

I was walking on some wet rocks in Norway and fell. My d850 landed directly on the rocks making a loud brittle crack. That body was opened along the upper right seams going forward, backward and down. The camera was stuck in the On state. The LCD panel was blank and the power switch and rear wheel didn't work. I could remove and replace the battery to 'turn it off, and on'. It was stuck in a fairly generic A state at a reasonable aperture for the day. I was able to focus and shoot using the touch screen. I continued shooting some lighthouses and old military sights south of Oslo, Norway. Later, I bought some small screwdrivers and disassembled it. I was able to reconnect the LCD and Power switch boards and they work. Everything works. While inside I found several places where the screw holes were broken off of the main cast aluminum structure. It autofocuses accurately and there is no light bleeding onto the sensor. Everything works except the diopter adjustment won't adjust to a 20/20 vision eye, but will focus to a 'reader' pair of glasses. Of course, the body integrity is not good.

Repairing it will take a skilled repair tech hours. The shutter count is in the 210,000 range. I can't afford a new d850 or Z at this point. I have a D7100 so I'm not without a camera.

Any idea from the forum how much it might cost to repair? Do people part out broken cameras? Other interesting options?
Is my camera worth fixing? br br I was walking on... (show quote)
I would have no idea on the cost of such a repair, or if it's even possible. But you got further with it than I ever could have! But people do sell broken bodies 'for parts only' on eBay. And they are in demand. You can get a good price for one, considering it's not working. 500-700.00.
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Aug 13, 2022 11:15:23   #
[quote=tcthome]
BartHx wrote:
Even amortized over a reasonable expected life span, what is the cost of the computer(s), editing software, digital photo printer(s), etc. for digital photography? Nobody seems to take those expenses into account when comparing film costs to digital. If we take those costs into account I would expect the difference between Bob's B&W numbers and digital numbers would be considerably less. I have been processing and printing B&W for well over 60 years and silver prints are permanent. I also occasionally print from family negatives that are well over 100 years old and experiencing no degradation -- yes, the nitrates do need to be stored and handled carefully but so do a lot of things. What is the life span of digital media and will anyone be able to read those files in 100 years? As Bob points ]
Even amortized over a reasonable expected life spa... (show quote)


B&W has one advantage, the prints last the longest. The best achival inkjet or dye-sub photo paper only lasts 150 years before it starts fading. B&W ahould last at least 300 years. As far as the total cost, for B&W you need to figure the cost of darkroom equipment (1,500.00-2,000.00), cameras (500.00), film and processing supplies (0.15/ea.)

For digital you need to figure a PC (1,500.00-3,000.00), software (20.00/mo., free software doesn't count, because it doesn't do much), camera (5,000.00), storage media (CF, 500.00, but more reliable than SD cards) batteries (500.00.), and printer (1,000.00+). So, B&W comes out less expensive. But B&W film isn't as good as digital color in most ways.
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Aug 13, 2022 10:49:49   #
BartHx wrote:
Even amortized over a reasonable expected life span, what is the cost of the computer(s), editing software, digital photo printer(s), etc. for digital photography? Nobody seems to take those expenses into account when comparing film costs to digital. If we take those costs into account I would expect the difference between Bob's B&W numbers and digital numbers would be considerably less. I have been processing and printing B&W for well over 60 years and silver prints are permanent. I also occasionally print from family negatives that are well over 100 years old and experiencing no degradation -- yes, the nitrates do need to be stored and handled carefully but so do a lot of things. What is the life span of digital media and will anyone be able to read those files in 100 years? As Bob points out they are apples and oranges. Digital users have no reason to discount film and film users have no reason to discount digital. Too many of us do both and variety is the spice of life. Use the one that you enjoy.
Even amortized over a reasonable expected life spa... (show quote)


Riddle me this, if you had a choice between the best film camera or the best digital camera, which would you choose, and why? I content digital is simply better than film, otherwise everyone would use film. There are many people still shooting film, but not in comparison to the number using digital. There are also people who still use VHS tapes and vinyl records, claiming they're superior.

But that's just wrong! I asked my uncle one time why he uses film. He told me one day he sat down, and based on a cost/benefit analysis, determined film was the way to go. I contended that perhaps the analysis was not complete, because he knew next to nothing about digital!

He flew off the handle and said, "Are 'you' trying to tell me what 'I' need? How would you know what 'I' need? Just keep your opinions to yourself!"

So I said, "I apologize if I offended you. But your defensive posturing tells me you know you made the wrong decision. If you thought you were correct, it wouldn't matter what I think, because I'd be incorrect. But as it is, the slightest question triggers a full onslaught of efforts to silence the truth."

He said, "I knew you were bad from the day you were born. Just get away from me, or shut up!"

I said, "It's OK to admit a mistake. In fact, that's the only way to correct them. If we simply go on justifying ourselves, we continue the same incorrect behavior, which robs us of what we could have had if only to admit our error."

He said, "What's this we, our s**t! Speak for yourself! You always were a little slow; not the sharpest tack in the box!"

I said, "Then what does that make 'you'?"

My dear uncle stomped off mumbling something about d**n kids nowadays! So, I learned. They wise value reproof. But fools spurn it. Not directly related to anything, but food for thought nonetheless.
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Aug 13, 2022 10:05:24   #
Jim Bianco wrote:
I agree UHH is your best bet, because the gear you buy from this sight is well kept gear and you could trust these sellers.I never had a problem, stay away from EBay always problems!!!!


I've never purchased used gear anywhere but eBay. In 22 years I have never had a problem, and eBay offers a money-back guarantee: you receive the item you purchased, or eBay will refund you including shipping. EBay then collects from the seller! I know it's easier to navigate life using broad, sweeping generalizations (saves all that time thinking), but then you end up shooting yourself in the foot every time you subject yourself to 1/1000th the selection and double the price with non-eBay sellers.

I wanted a 200-400 f4 zoom. I looked on eBay, and there were 64 of them for sale, ranging in price from 1,000-2,400 dollars. EBay means you will always have the greatest selection, the best price, and trouble-free transactions. So, what you mentioned about eBay is 100% correct except the part to avoid it, and that there's problems.
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Jul 17, 2022 10:27:29   #
Ghosts can only be photographed with chemical-emulsion film technology. They don't show up on a sensor. At least that's what I've heard.
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Jul 17, 2022 10:11:55   #
So, according to some, you should be judicious in what you shoot, and then there will be less to delete. If I'm on a project, I want at least 300 shots of the good stuff. But I'll experiment along the way. Most of the experimentation is just a learning experience, not for the content.

But there are some factors that remain unknown. A missed shot today may be salvageable with future advancements in digital data-processing. Libraries keep old manuscripts in unknown languages, because computers might one day decipher them. If they're tossed, the chance of that is reduced to zero.

I don't shoot many 'bad' shots, unless I mess up accidentally. But if I'm shooting a certain insect, I want 100 frames to choose from. I might get 2 or 3 good ones out of that. They're all technically sound. But if that's all I've got I'm in trouble. I need real standouts to pass my bar! Everything must be technically perfect, and the shot must have some real assets.

Like a flying bird is good. You can shoot those all day. But a bird picking up prey off the ground requires at least 10 shots, preferably 20-30, tto get the frame I want. I don't shoot much as snapshots go. I just use my phone for that stuff. There's really no purpose to using an expensive camera for family snapshots.

How much quality do you really need? There nothing wrong with shooting straight to jpg for snapshots, so phones are fine. Although you have to download the shots off the phone periodically. I have about 100GBs of photos and videos on my phone.

ileBut, yeah, if you're shooting 60 shots to get one good one of kids outside, you have to delete periodically, or you wind up a useless mess! I also put a copy of the 'good' image files in a separate directory, all alone. I carry a waterproof capsule around my neck containing a MicroSD card with a video of me explaining how to get to all my 'good' stuff, in the event of my tragic death. I have special passwords for special users on PCs and mobile devices I own, that never get used and/or changed. They'll always be there.

When I get new stuff, I put those same users on the system, with the same PWs. You have to change passwords if you use them, because in using them they are exposed. But if you neved use one (never log in as that user) , you don't need to chanqe it. It will never be exposed.
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