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Posts for: aubreybogle
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Jun 7, 2019 16:42:53   #
burkphoto wrote:
The combination of sensor surface area and sensel density together determine the dynamic range (photon sucking potential) of a camera. The bigger the sensels (sensor elements), the more light each of them can turn into electrons. So both the "chip" size and the "megapixel density" of the sensor affect dynamic range, color depth, and low light performance.

Sensors are analog. Their output is optionally amplified, then digitized with an analog-to-digital converter, and then either saved into a raw file, or converted in the camera to a JPEG image. (Actually, the JPEG conversion ALWAYS happens, because a small JPEG preview image is stuffed into every raw file's "wrapper" format.)

Different cameras perform both of these operations differently! So the processing design engineered into the camera can have a profound effect on the appearance of the output. Two sensors of the same size with 16 MP output will produce different results due to different sensor design, and different processing. Two 16 MP sensors of different size, will have those differences, plus the inherent differences in signal-to-noise ratio caused by the size difference of their sensels.

At this point I want to make a very important distinction between a sensor element and a pixel. If you always think of pixels as NUMBERS, numbers that have no associated physical properties, you will understand digital photography much better!

A sensor element by itself (except in the Foveon sensor) is not a pixel, because it cannot represent more than one color. The sensor elements on the sensor are covered with red, or green, or blue filters. Their output is stored in an array. Data from several to many adjacent sensor elements is processed into pixel data with very complex algorithms. So a pixel is really a calculation of a point of color and brightness based on SEVERAL points of filtered light.

If raw data is processed into an image file in post production software on a computer, we have an analogy to color negative film. The raw file is likened to exposed film that has not been developed, but that can be developed in an infinite number of ways, both now, and in the future. It includes everything that the sensor recorded that the A/D converter could turn into numbers. But it is NOT an image.

If raw data is processed to an 8-bit JPEG in the camera, we have an analogy to color slide film. The image quality is highly dependent upon camera menu settings, especially white balance and exposure. Most of the raw data is discarded during this processing. What remains has limited latitude for adjustment later.

The BIT DEPTH of the data in the raw file determines potential dynamic range of the file. The physical properties of the sensor limit the actual dynamic range recorded. Bit depth is how many binary digits are used to store each value... 8 bits is 256 bits per color, 12 bits is 4096 bits per color, 14 bits is 16,384 bits per color. Better digital cameras record 12 to 14 stops of dynamic range in raw... But a JPEG contains roughly six stops of data, and you can only fit about 5.5 stops onto most photo papers.

Resolution is affected by many factors, but the basic one is *image dimensions in pixels*. A 6000 pixel by 4000 pixel image (24 Megapixels) is a relatively high resolution file. It can make a very nice 20" by 13.333" print at 300 INPUT Pixels Per Inch (NOT dpi, which is an output device (printer) resolution measurement, or a scanner input resolution measurement. DOTS have dimensions. PIXELS have ONLY VALUES that can be represented by dots.)

You can scale pixels to any size, with or without interpolation. Maintaining the same pixel count changes the resolution. Interpolation modifies the pixel count, either "faking data" (enlargement) or discarding data (reduction).

It is best to forget about megabyte sizes of files. Various file compression schemes (especially JPEG) render file size useless as a guide to image quality. Pixel dimensions are really the only accurate indicator. Divide each dimension by your intended "output resolution input" (how many pixels from the original, uninterpolated file you will convert to each inch of printed or displayed output) to get the optimal maximum size. In the example above, 6000x4000 at 300PPI yields 20"x13.333" on paper. Each of those pixels may be reproduced by a varying number of dots, depending on the output device.

Of course, most of the same things from analog photography affect digital image quality, too. Factors such as lens performance (MTF performance, coma, astigmatism, distortion, chromatic aberrations...) play a similar, if even more critical role. Light is light, although the linearity of digital camera response means you may prefer much less specularity, greater fill light in shadows, and lower overall lighting ratios. The S-curve of the H&D plots we had for film must be simulated in post-production from raw files — if you prefer a more film-like look.

That's all for now... food for thought. WELCOME TO THE 'HOG.
The combination of sensor surface area and sensel ... (show quote)


Thank you for your usual superb response to an OP's question.
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Apr 12, 2019 01:06:10   #
Kaowdo wrote:
Thank you sweetheart!

I will be looking forward to this new venture, and all the fantastic photo's I'm going to learn how to take of my jewelry...so I don't have to use stock photo's anymore. I have tried before to photograph my jewelry...but believe it or not...jewelry is (especially sparkly jewelry) is very hard to get great photo's of. So...I'm really looking forward to learning how, but now that I feel I have the right equipment it will happen.


As another forum member wrote, lighting for jewelry is crucial for good photos. I do not do this kind of photography, but I have seen advertised reasonably priced lighting kits that will help (much less than $100). Hopefully someone more knowledgeable will offer their advice.
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Apr 11, 2019 23:30:32   #
Kaowdo wrote:
Thanks. I found a good used Rebel SL1..in white..with a 18x55 lens, so I bought it. Should have it in about a week...then I'll be back here...after watching hours of youtube on how to use it. Thanks for that good info on the SL1...it really helped me.


Congratulations, you did your homework and made the right decision for you. I am impressed with your enthusiasm and commitment to make this project work for you, and I have no doubt you will succeed. This forum is an excellent place to seek advice. In addition to UTube, check out the Canon web site for the Canon Owner's Manual for your camera as well as instructional videos. Specifically, open the Support drop down menu. Welcome to your new hobby. It has many facets that you will find both challenging and enjoyable.
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Apr 11, 2019 22:58:02   #
nadelewitz wrote:
These photos have appeared on UHH before, followed by much discussion about what they are showing. The most reasonable answer was that it is a person who is collecting gear loaned out to worthy photographers at some big event supported by Canon.

Other answers leaned toward it being a rich crazy person.


Whatever the explanation, these are great photos to elicit chuckles and comment. They certainly did from me.
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Apr 11, 2019 22:48:40   #
woodworkerman wrote:
I have been to and photographed in all the lower 48 states and 75% of the National Parks and associated mountain ranges. I live in Florida on the Gulf Coast and have plenty of sand and surf available. Are there any compelling reasons or suggestions that I should know that might convince me to go to Hawaii. I have to travel alone now, so I would be unaccompanied. Any ideas to share? Thanks.


I vote enthusiastically yes with those supporting your visit to Hawaii. I lived on Oahu in the late 60's - early 70's.While working, I had regular meetings there over the years. Since retirement, I have been back almost annually for all the reasons articulated above. One way to consider making your first visit is to take a cruise ship from one of the west coast cruise ports, with a return to the same port. (I did such a cruise in March, and it was delightful.) This avoids the tiresome 11 hour flight someone complained about and gives you a sampling of the principle scenic islands. It will also give you an opportunity to meet your several hundred or several thousand new best friends (depending on the size of the ship), fellow cruisers on the ship. One thing is certain, you won't to be lonely, unless you choose to be.

I also lived in Alaska, and have taken the inside passage cruise several times. Also highly recommended.
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Apr 9, 2019 20:23:49   #
KYdude wrote:
My wife and I are going to the Holy Land in June. My question for those of you that may have been there is what lens or lenses should I take.

I use a Canon 5D3 and have the following lenses: 24-105L f4.0, 70-200L F 2.8, and a 100-400L F 4.5-5.6.

All lenses have IS. All Lenses are Canon.

Thanks for your help and suggestions.


I have been there and am a Canon user. For Jerusalem, even the 70-200 is too long in the streets. For your trip as a whole, you should be fine with the 24-105 and 70-200. I can't envision the necessity of the 100-400.
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Apr 7, 2019 01:33:12   #
picsix wrote:
I will be traveling to Croatia and Montenegro in May. I have a Canon EOS Mark IV. We will be both on the water and on land. I know the streets are narrow and crowded, but beautiful architecture. I have all Canon lenses. A 35mm, 50mm, 24-70mm, 24-105mm, 100-400mm and a 70-200mm. I will bring a tripod, but won't be using that on a daily walk around basis. Also traveling with family, so ease is important- but my equipment and photos are of primo importance! Any suggestions would be most helpful!


I have the same equipment. I travel internationally a lot, but I am not one of those in the "minimal equipment at all costs" camp. I have been to Croatia, and it offers a variety of beautiful photo opportunities. The 24-105 is not a bad choice as a walk around lens, but you will be constrained by its maximum focal length. Something with more reach would be more flexible/useful (70-200). Bring the 50 mm prime for indoor and street shots. If you had a wide angle prime, I would also include it. Plan your days shooting, and take the lenses you need accordingly. Forget the tripod. Croatia is a great place to visit and photograph.
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Apr 2, 2019 17:23:53   #
No problem. We had already figured that out.
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Apr 1, 2019 17:53:46   #
Stardust wrote:
Yes there are - use to plug into my cell phone to transfer photos from reader to phone to email back to Walgreens so they were ready for Vets returning from their Honor Flight. About $6-8 on Amazon, assume would work on a Tab A.


Unfortunately, not all phone USB charging ports will allow file uploads or downloads. Recommend you check your owner's manual.
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Mar 31, 2019 01:14:46   #
Blenheim Orange wrote:
There is a good resource page from Dr. Robert Berdan here:

https://www.canadiannaturephotographer.com/rberdan_focus_stacking.html

He compares using the three main stacking programs, Helicon, Zerene, and Photoshop, and at the bottom of the page is a list of other programs and resources.

Mike


I have both Photoshop and Helicon. Recommend Helicon as more intuitive and flexible.
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Mar 29, 2019 23:42:18   #
Check your camera manual for the features Arsenal is offering that interest you. You may already have the features you want.
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Mar 29, 2019 22:37:22   #
This is a somewhat personality driven question. I have never in my life had a yard or garage sale, and never will. I give my no longer needed things to family, friends or charity. The same is true for cameras and lenses. If its new, and after careful research I decide I can use a new camera body or lens productively, and I can afford it, I buy it. I then decide what to do with the older equipment later. Reselling the used equipment never enters my thinking.
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Mar 29, 2019 15:13:04   #
gessman wrote:
They both seem doable from here with a noticeable difference in the brightness level, the top one being a tad better and the bottom one being fixable.


Agree, also the top one appears to me just a tad sharper. Adjusting the exposure and contrast in the bottom photo might improve its apparent sharpness.
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Mar 28, 2019 23:18:56   #
I appreciate your perserverence in addressing your issue. Eventually you will answer your question.
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Mar 28, 2019 21:33:44   #
I have used both, starting with film SLRs years ago. I am perfectly happy with my 5D mk4 and 7D Mk2. I'm not feeling any great need to switch to mirrorless.
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