If you are printing with a service, they should supply you with color profiles that you load and use when doing final color/tonal adjustments. If you are using your own photo printer, adjust image until you get prints that match your expectation and save the settings.

iMovie works great and comes with your OS.
Beyond that there is Adobe Premier, but that is overkill and expensive for what you want.

If you'll be printing a lot of images, or on an ongoing basis, your own printer will be great. I used to do quite a lot of it, and had a nice epson printer and would use the archival inks as well as really good archival paper.

Then I opened a business and got too busy to consistently do much printing, so cartridges would dry up, and I would often spend more time cleaning the jets than actually printing, so moved to a service.

Now I'm back to a one-man studio, so am once again considering a new printer. But the investment of printer, inks and papers will be more than $1000, so I have some thinking to do about what I really want to commit to.

In thirty years of contracting photography, I have found photographers aren't real good at computer engineering, and vice versa.

Get involved with a local art association. Attend their events, see what other "professionals" are producing for images. Judge your work against theirs.

When you have self critiqued to that next level, enter critiqued competitions, this will let you know where you stand with others.

When you're really ready to have your ego assaulted, go to gallery owners that sell photo works. They'll tell you rather abruptly where you stand.

But don't be afraid of failure, as an artist, you surely will. But if you are to be a successful artist, you'll persevere.

Portraits are easier. I like the 85 f1.4. But I've used other lenses just fine. Lighting is the key here.

If you are being paid for a wedding/event, you need to get ready to shoot as a professional.

• 2 camera bodies
• at least 4 batteries, preferably 6
• some kind of lighting system, speed lights can work for candids and casual portraits, try to have off camera options, or inspect the location and see if you can bounce off walls/ceilings. For formal wedding portraits, size of wedding party will greatly influence lighting and modifiers you would bring.
• two primes, one that has macro features for tables/rings, etc, all in the 1.4-2.8 range
• at least a 24-70 2.8 zoom, preferably a 70-200 also, these are a must for getting all the candids and action shots, primes mean you need to move yourself to properly frame moments, and you don't want to block the memories to get the shot.
• get an assistant. For lower budgets, just get a kid with interest in photos and pay $10 an hour for them to run around getting equipment for you. If it is getting into any kind of money which would make for litigation, get a well versed shooting assistant. I like getting people that can also shoot some and will have them using the second camera body in some parts of the event.

Upgrade is the way to go.
I've done this many times as I was the de facto IT department in a small design studio I owned. Not too hard, but it varies from the different build dates, as does the compatible RAM. Just make sure you find a good tutorial for the proper model and release date. For parts, I've always used these guys, https://www.datamemorysystems.com/, there's a form on the home page that gives you a way to quickly identify the appropriate parts for your machine.

One more tip, get yourself an anti-static wrist strap. They're about $5, and will prevent you from accidentally damaging internal parts with your body's static electricity.

Good luck.

Why? Because I have considered the following attributes/issues when I last upgraded my system;

a) Sony G lenses are more expensive, and being relatively new, there are few options on the used market.
b) I have found Sony to be inferior in low light conditions compared to Nikon, both in image noise and focus.
c) Although initially intrigued by the smaller form factor and weight savings, after renting Sony for a project I realized that most of the bulk and weight comes from the lens, which means no difference in real life.
d) I have been shooting Nikon for over 20 years and found the bodies to be very tough, and when I do have repair needs Nikon service has been very quick and thorough, as well as reasonably priced for items out of warranty.

Thanks for asking.

I backup the macbook with Time Machine to an external drive.
I put all my media and job files on an external RAID system, that I backup to another external drive using "Synchronize X" There are probably cheaper options, but this works for me.

Thanks for the info. Will head in this weekend.

for those considering the trip, here's the MFA's info on the exhibit;
https://www.mfa.org/exhibition/viewpoints

I have used both the Nikon and the Tokina. Pleased with results on both.

Right now Nikon has the 105 on sale for about $800 at the Nikon store. The Tokina was $350 at Adorama last time I looked.

United's lowest fares are limited to "no carry on". Usually you can pay a fee to add the carry on, or you can pay a fee for luggage (having equipment in a larger case).

Call them and inquire.

I own a D7000 and D750 and have used the Tokina 100 macro with good results. It's probably not as good as the Nikon offering, but at less than half the cost, it's good for my needs.

Nantasket Beach, Hull, Massachusetts.

For the most part, the crowds made it too hard to get shots, except for that one image where the crowd made the shot.

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no matter which tripod you buy, make sure it is solidly held in place, particularly out in the field doing landscapes. Get some cheap sandbags you can wrap around the legs, or get one of these;
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/707201-REG/Vanguard_SB_100_SB_100_Stone_Bag.html?ap=y&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2drTkvCd4wIV5ZJbCh0F2QVkEAQYBCABEgLvFvD_BwE&lsft=BI%3A514&smp=y

Remember, a good tripod is your sharpest lens.