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May 25, 2020 23:33:50   #
BeachLady wrote:
I'm plotting a trip to Yellowstone (driving from SC to there to AZ to SC) in late August-October. Looking for advice on best places to stay and things to NOT MISS for travel/nature/food & wine photographers! (both in Yellowstone and/or along the way.)

I'm not really asking for hotel recommendations (unless you have some!) but would like town names that would put us close to the gates in the park to make the most of our time.

We're both seniors - healthy, but not mountain climbers! ;-) Celebrating my RETIREMENT from teaching - whooo-hooo!!

Thanks in advance!
I'm plotting a trip to Yellowstone (driving from S... (show quote)


If you want to come in from the northeast corner of YNP, then either Red Lodge or Cooke City (closer to the park) would be good places to stay. US Hwy 212 over Beartooth Pass can be a bit unnerving for some - narrow road, hairpin turns, big drop-offs and few guard rails - but the scenery is so great. The pass tops out at over 10,000 ft. A drawback is that coming in this way, you are farthest from nany8 of the "go to" attractions. A positive is the great scenery and fewer tourists. Your time frame is when I like to visit because the crowds thin out.

Since you are coming in from South Carolina, you might want to consider going through Jackson, WY (I-80 to US 89) to the south entrance. That puts you 20+ miles from Grant's Village and is less busy than the West Yellowstone entrance. Fall color will - subject to nature's variability - be spectacular and wildlife still active. Also, FEWER tourists around! Take a good selection of lenses and a polarizing/warming filter. ENJOY!!
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May 25, 2020 10:33:05   #
Marturo wrote:
When using Photo Shop 6.0 to repair Slides & negatives I saved my work as Tiffs.
I could use those Tiffs to make as many copies of a picture without degrading it
as it's copied, like a Jpeg.


That is why I keep all my TIFF files worth saving. The degradation of JPG is a confirmed fact and you are spoon. For me, TIFF amounts to archival storage, as close as we can come.
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May 24, 2020 22:51:31   #
RWR wrote:
My Df 16-bit TIFFs are about 92mb, 14-bit NEFs are about 45mb (about 34mb if lossless compressed). Are your NEF (RAW) files larger than the TIFFs?


To the best of my knowledge they are larger. I will check and post if they are smaller. But, considering the amount of data in NEF (Nikon RAW files), I should think they would be.
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May 24, 2020 17:02:45   #
smussler wrote:
Thanks for info. My camera did not come with a CD (that I recall). Both programs can be downloaded from Nikon. I just downloaded the help PDF files. 16-bit TIFF's can be quite large - right? After PP do you save/export your edits as a TIFF or JPG? I don't print my photos, so I don't need a high definition file. I've been thinking about getting a digital picture frame. I have been shooting RAW and JPG.
Affinity seems to be able to open the RAW files directly. Any advantage to using the TIFF? I'd think that you'd be losing something with that intermediate step. Why not use a PP program that can start with the RAW file?
Thanks for info. My camera did not come with a CD ... (show quote)


Yes, you can download them from Nikon and Nikon regularly sends notice about updates to either one or both programs. 16-bit TIFFs are moderately large, but nothing like a RAW file and I store them for future reference if I want to tweak them a little. But, for me, the kicker is that either in sending them to friends or to my lab, I have to convert them to JPG files in order to keep the. file size within limits of the internet carriers e-mail protocols. For printing, since I use a lab, I use the highest quality setting when exporting TIFFs to JPG format. Nothing is lost in making a TIFF file if you first open the RAW file with your camera makers program, in our case, Nikon's ViewNX-i and then sport using Capture NX-D.
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May 23, 2020 22:56:45   #
smussler wrote:
I have PS6 also. Mine won't work with my Nikon D5600 raw files. As I understand it, RAW files differ between Camera Manufacturers and even models.
Can not be updated, newest version needed. I just download affinity 90 day trial. Priced at $25 (50% discount) right now.
My first impression, is it looks like it will do what I need, but from the online help video's - there's a lot to learn.


Since you have a D5600, you should have a CD with Nikon ViewNX-1 and Nikon CaptureNX-D. That will take care of the proprietary information Nikon encodes in RAW files. As I should have mentioned, I use View and Capture - View to open and export to Capture - and Capture to convert to 16-bit TIFF. That is what I then use in my post-processing program. You can also do post-processing in Capture. I will likely experiment with Capture for post-processing this summer. But I like Luminar and haven't felt the need to look deeper into Capture. But, I think it will be worth some time soon, just to know more of what it can do.
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May 23, 2020 18:33:29   #
RWR wrote:
I use ViewNX 2, which was included with my camera. Export NEF files as 16-bit TIFF, crop as desired, print. I also have Photoshop 6, handy for cropping and converting the occasional JPEGs I get from family and friends to TIFF prior to printing. If my camera could shoot 16-bit TIFF, all I would need is software to crop, since no one format is ideal for all scenes.


Since I have a D7100, I open all RAW files with it and then use it to convert to 16-bit TIFF. I started doing this at the suggestion of the owner of a local (50 miles north) camera store who told me that using Nikon software to open the RAW files preserves proprietary information in the file and gives better results. I then go to Luminar 2018 for all my post-processing. I have Luminar 3 on my computer, but haven't yet gotten as comfortable with it as with 2018.
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May 23, 2020 16:38:47   #
Welcome to UHH Marturo: I made the switch from film in 2012 and, after talking with a friend started using Graphic Converter. It was okay for about two years, but my dissatisfaction made me search for something better. I decided to try Luminar, a product of Skylum which was known as Macphun at the time. I found Luminar to be easy to learn and have been highly satisfied with the results. This interested my in Aurora, Skylum's HDR processing program. I use it sparingly for dealing with contrasty lighting situations and, while it is easy to WAY overdo things and get some pretty "well cooked" results, I have found it helpful in adjusting some photo files that were just a little "off". I recommend them to your consideration.
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May 18, 2020 18:11:06   #
Number 6 is my favorite. I am disappointed that, due to the construction on Many Glacier Road, I may not be able to get to the trailheads. But, if it can't be Many Glacier this summer, I'll go there next year and explore the Two Medicine Lakes area, instead. What suggestions do you have for that area?
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May 17, 2020 17:02:16   #
Thanks for the road construction article. It may put a kink in my plans for Swiftcurrent.
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May 17, 2020 11:41:41   #
Wonderful shots!! Congratulations. This next month (hopefully with no more lock down) I will be in Glacier for my fifth summer. Your photos whetted my appetite and I specifically want to explore Swiftcurrent Valley. A friend says that they are goin to be doing road work on the Many Glacier road. I hope it doesn't prevent me from getting to Swiftcurrent and Grinnell Valleys. What a sublime place Glacier is. Do you have any insight on the road status next month?
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May 13, 2020 22:53:42   #
Gene51 wrote:
Shoot raw, underexpose slightly to avoid clipping a color channel, and make the proper adjustments in post processing. You can check for channel clipping by looking at the RGB histograms on the back of the camera. Use a real, full-featured raw converter like Lightroom, On1 Raw, DXO PhotoLab or Capture One. Some like RawDigger and other free or low cost raw converters. But iPhoto is extremely light weight for what you are trying to do.


I think the shots are not over saturated. Gene51's advice about checking the histogram is really a critical part of finding the best solution. And, using a raw converter that has plenty of flexibility is also very important. The change, once I switched to Capture One was quite noticeable. Very nice photos!
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May 7, 2020 22:49:14   #
I know what you mean about the Nikon F days. I still have mine and hope to use it some, this summer. Shooting manual on a DSLR of, I assume, mirrorless, means that you have to choose both the aperture and the shutter speed. The camera will tell you if you have made a workable combination of the two variables. Auto-focus is not affected as we are talking only about exposure and manipulating shutter speed and aperture to achieve the results we want. For example, if you want to blur water, then you use a slower shutter speed and a bigger aperture; with or with our an ND filter and/or polarizer, that will give you a different relationship, but not change the basics of the equation. If depth of focus is your goal, you select a smaller aperture and longer exposure. The camera will tell you when you have the viable relationship.
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May 6, 2020 15:45:30   #
Quite a sad commentary on the mentality of too many salespeople. They don't want to bother with your questions, just with making the sale as quickly as possible.
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May 6, 2020 14:46:40   #
About ten years ago I started looking at where items were made, when that information was available. If I could avoid it, I didn't buy, and still don't buy imported items if there is a choice, especially from China. And that is not a racial comment: my German mother was actually born in China and loved the people.
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May 5, 2020 23:22:00   #
I agree 100%. Given the circumstances involved, I think dependence on anyone but ourselves for critical products in foolish. The world is not an orderly playground, but a contentious mess and we forget that at our peril.
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