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Posts for: LarryFB
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Jun 13, 2020 12:55:55   #
Stage Light wrote:
BEWARE:
Lightroom (Apple) will not work with any OS below 10.13.6.


Well, I use a MacBook Pro with OS 10.14.6 and Lightroom Classic (the latest version with the subscription) works great.
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Jun 1, 2020 15:42:35   #
SteveR wrote:
Last summer my daughter and one of her closest friends took a 3 1/2 week road trip, with four children, through the southwest to San Diego and back through Denver before returning to Texas. They were great planners and saw more than I would ever have gotten in. One of the highlights was Saguaro N.P. If you're going by it, try to stop. It was mentioned previously, as well.


There are actually two parts of Saguaro National Park, one is East of Tuscon and the other is West of Tuscon. I would recommend the one West of Tuscon because it's near Old Tuscon (a movie lot) and the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum (which is also a zoo).

A couple of other things, many on your way back if you take I-10, Benson is a small town you pass by on I-10. Tombstone is only about 25 miles south of the interstate and is an interesting visit. Also near Benson is Katchner Caverns, certainly worth a trip and a tour (no cameras or cell phones allowed in the Cavern unless you are on a specific Photo tour that only happens about once a month).
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May 28, 2020 22:25:58   #
scootersurfs wrote:
I didn’t blend the other 4 images. And I export at 2000X3000 300ppi. Not sure why it says 2000 X1333? I try to keep the files size down for MLS.


Did you rotate the image, or when you exported the image to 2000X3000 did you have the 2000 in the right place (i.e. horizontal factor). I ask because I noticed that the 2000X3000 is exactly the right ratio ad 2000X 1333 is exactly the same ratio. It just makes me think that you put the number in the wrong place in your software.
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May 23, 2020 14:28:57   #
Longshadow wrote:
Sorry, I misunderstood your statement above (my bold emphasis).


No problem, I forgot the milli in front of amps! My bad!
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May 23, 2020 12:45:59   #
Longshadow wrote:
You mean 22000 MilliAmp-hours?
A starter motor under full load typically draws over 200 amps.
I doubt it can supply 220 amps for six seconds though.


22000 milliamp-hours is the same as 22 amp-hours!
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May 23, 2020 12:02:59   #
Longshadow wrote:
Oops, I mean Ops, no, wait...

Amazing these new batteries.

Starter motor works on 22 amps? WOW!
That's a big improvement over the years also.
(You did disconnect the RV battery to do the test to simulate a dead battery, correct?)


No I did not disconnect the RV battery. BUT, before I connected the jumper, I tried to start the vehicle. Turning the ignition on, no dash lights were lit, there was no enough voltage for anything to turn on. I didn't even bother to check the voltage on the battery. But I hooked up the charger (very compact and relatively light) the engine cranked right away abd the engine started within about 2 seconds! That was impressive.

I doubt the started motor was just pulling 22 amps, that's low for a starter. The figure of 22000 amp-hours should be the capacity of the battery for putting out 22 amps for 1 hour, or 44 amps for 30 minutes, or 1 amp for 22 hours. It does not mean it is limited to 22 amps.
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May 23, 2020 10:46:38   #
Longshadow wrote:
20 amps is a LOT of current, but one also has to look at what voltage supplies it.
Power from 20 amps at 5 volts (10 Watts) is a LOT less than power from 20 amps at 120 volts (2,400 Watts).

Don't know how they purport to get 20 amps out of it.


20 amps at 5 volts is 100 watts, you just forget to add the second zero.

I recently purchased a battery powered jump starter. It's rated at 22000 ma-hours and has a Lithum-ion battery. I wondered if it would have the current to jump start my RV with a V-10. It certainly does, I've used it twice and it started perfectly.

It's amazing what technology has been able to do!
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May 3, 2020 00:28:49   #
suntouched wrote:
Question to those that have sent items under warranty to Canon Repair Center for repair:

Is it customary for the customer to pay for shipping to the center? Are the shipping costs refunded to the customer after the fact or is it just the consumer cost of a failed product?

I am sending a lens in for repair (still under original warranty) from the NW coast to the East cost and no prepaid label was included in the downloaded paperwork. I anticipate the cost of shipping one way with insurance will exceed 35.00 since it's a heavy lens and traveling a long distance.
Question to those that have sent items under warra... (show quote)


I have a Nikon, not a Canon, but I suspect their policies are similar on shipping costs. I sent a Nikon lens, under warrenty, because the auto focus quit working. I paid for the shipping to the Nikon Warranty facility on the West Coast. I wasn't paid for the shipping cost by Nikon. Nikon repaired it under warranty and shipped it back to me at no cost. I cannot complain about the service I received, nor can I complain about the cost (maybe $30 for shipping, packaging, and insurance).
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Apr 28, 2020 10:27:38   #
rpavich wrote:
Ok...after a chat with adobe and a few mis-installs of the wrong product...lol...I'm good to go.

They certainly don't make it easy.


Don't feel bad. The way Adobe renamed their two Lightroom products has caused many problems for Many people. They went from Lightroom Mobile and Lightroom to Lightroom Cloud and Lightroom Classic. That has caused many people some issues. I hope it caused Adobe a lot of migraines.
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Apr 19, 2020 13:17:56   #
TomFama wrote:
I use LR6 (stand alone) with Outlook 2007. At one time I was able to email photo files, not images through Outlook 2007. Somehow I lost that capability. Now when I want to email a photo file, it will only email an image of the file which is embedded in the e-mail. Does anyone have a solution? Thanks in advance. Tom Fama


I don't know what computer you are using or what email program you are using. On a Mac, if you attach a jpg file, it will generally show up in the email. However, there is also a paper clip icon. If you click on the paper click you can download the jpg attachment. On a Mac, the jpg attachment is also rendered as a photo in the email.

I don't know is Microsoft does the same think.
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Apr 15, 2020 16:48:09   #
davidrb wrote:
I am looking for advice on how this is done. I used to be able to drag the new file onto the old (back-up version) and let file management do its thing. I just tired doing this and got a dialogue box telling me it wanted to add the entire file as new, and it needed additional space. I must have missed something but can't figure out what. Any assistance will be appreciated.


Since you are using a MAC, use Time Machine for backups, you can specify what files to back up. It is a sequential backup so it only adds new files to your backup.
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Apr 12, 2020 21:41:33   #
Bike guy wrote:
I was. I had the HD on my IMac crash yesterday. My previous IMac HD also crashed.
I still have the new IMac under extended warranty but with everything being locked and can’t take it in but would have to ship it. Being home bound nowdue to Covid, I would go insane without it.
All my files were backed up to cloud drives, ICloud, Creative Cloud and One Drive.
I never did a restore backup so I had to other options. I had a 500 gb ssd drive and was able to reinstall the OS on it from Apple online.

Now I am going through the process of reinstalling purchased software. I kept all my logins and passwords in an Excel file, which I print out regularly and email it to me so I can access it on my IPad.

I am so fortunate I had everything copied and saved. But the Apple Restore/backup, or whatever it is called would have been most likely better.
Of course my new HD will be organized.
I was. I had the HD on my IMac crash yesterday. My... (show quote)


I suspect you are talking about Time Machine. It's an Apple Program that is part of the operating system. All I will say is that I have used it for years and it works great.
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Apr 12, 2020 00:15:56   #
Through_MI_Eyes wrote:
I have been told it would be better to have a full frame camera over a crop sensor


First, I would recommend that you don't believe everything you are told. Investigate yourself, get second and third opinions. There are subjects where a full frame camera can be better than a crop frame, and there are other subjects where a crop sensor is better than a full frame.

Ask questions, get opinions, and make your own decision.

Understand all the differences between a full frame and a crop sensor camera. Understand the cost differential, understand all the advantages and disadvantages, and you make the decision.

When I started getting involved in Birding, it was 2013, and I was at the Salton Sea in California. My camera was a Bridge Camera, a Konica Minolta Z-6 I think. That is kind of an extreme Crop Sensor Camera. Because of the issues I was having, I went to Costco near Indio CA and bought a crop sensor Nikon DSLR and wow, it made a surprising difference. The cost was about $800 with two lenses (18-55mm, and 55-300mm), plus a few other items. If I had gone to a Full Frame Camera, I would have spent 3 or more times as much. I am still happy with my decision and have had several photographs used for various commercial purposes.

Now, which is better Full Frame or Crop Sensor? It depends! I think for Birding (and cost) a Crop Sensor makes more sense. If I were a professional Portrait Photographer perhaps full frame MAY have an advantage.

Do your research, consider what you are interested in capturing, consider your budget, and make an intelligent decision.
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Apr 11, 2020 18:09:44   #
Is there a question?

A Crop Sensor Camera (like the 7500) is a really good choice for Birding. I haven't used a 150-600 mm lens but the focal length, especially on the 7500 should be great.
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Mar 25, 2020 19:06:51   #
4OX wrote:
I saw PS Elements on sale yesterday, 24 hours only ☹️ for $59-... I missed it, of course. It was for stand alone version. I have and use LR, but it doesn't do layers! I don't want/need full PS, so does anyone have any experience with Elements? I think I probably missed a DEAL!


Photoshop Elements is an excellent program. I have used several different versions. Adobe seems to release updated versions every Fall. The new versions always have some improvements. I think the new versions are about $80 or $90.

Photoshop Elements doesn't do everything Photoshop does, but what it does do (quite a lot) is excellent. The last version I used was probably purchased about 10 years ago. I won't try to describe the latest versions since in 2013 I went to the Lightroom/Photoshop subscription. That may not be right for everyone, but it has worked well for me.
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