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Oct 18, 2013 11:37:23   #
SharpShooter wrote:
Jen, welcome to the Hog.
Don't know if you have looked at any equipment yet, but you will see that $1200+ just doesn't go very far. The two most expensive pursuits are wildlife and sports.
Maybe you can get your kids to switch to the chess club!
I think your major consideration is going to be the lens. You need long and fast to get rid of that fence.
But FYI, a good lens, if you use it for a year or more will sell used for close to what you payed for it, then a more appropriate night lens can be purchased when the time comes. Lenses are NOT like new cars, that when you drive it off the showroom floor, thay are already worthless.
So, a lens such as an f4 that works great in daylight but not so well for night games, can be replaced at a later date with a very minimal depreciation.
If your shots tend to be static, even inexpensive bodies should do a pretty good job. If you're trying to get base runners sliding, or the second baseman jumping over a slider and throwing to first, it will be much more critical that you have a sports body. Sports bodies have special focusing systems that track the fast action better than regular bodies but tend to cost more.
For a less expensive package, I recommend you look at a Canon 7D and a non IS 70-200, F4 zoom. Good for daylight. Refurbished and on loyalty from Canon the body is about $1000. The lens refubed is about $600.
A note, though the Sigma lenses being recommended are much cheaper than the comparable Canon model, they also tend to be much heavier. Meaning you can loose the versatality of hand holding a lens and be forced to use a tripod.
I believe, though I'm not so familiar with it, that tha Canon 50d body is a pretty good sports body and much cheaper, but not sure of its megapixels. Maybe someone can chime in on the 50d.
FYI, sports bodies focus better and have very high frames per second abilities.
Hope this might have helped.
Jen, again welcome to the Hog.
SS
Jen, welcome to the Hog. br Don't know if you hav... (show quote)


I second that.
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Oct 18, 2013 11:34:03   #
jennihunnicutt wrote:
Wow, thanks so much! I have very little confidence in making this investment since I know so little but your advice makes me feel much better!!!! I will do more research and learning as well as looking at many choices, not just what might be the most well known brands. I appreciate your time to help!!!


But since you're a math teacher, you're going to get this photography thing pretty quickly. It's all numbers.
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Oct 18, 2013 11:32:28   #
charles brown wrote:
Your budget is approximately $1,200. Some suggestions.

First, go to a good camera store to test as many cameras as you can. Even Best buy is better than nothing. How the camera feels in you hands will be an important factor.

Second, do as much reading/research as possible beforehand so that you will have some idea as to what the salesperson is talking about.

Third, an inexpensive body using a great lens will take much better photos that an expensive body with an average lens. These days the glass is everything inasmuch as entry level bodies can take great photos with the right lens.

Fourth, while most here use Canon or Nikon, be willing to look at other makes. The new Olympus is a great camera, Sony and Pentax also make some very good cameras.

Fifth, an f4 lens is the slowest you want to buy. For tack sharp action the f2.8 is by far the best way to go. As for me would get the 70-200 f2.8 to start with. Even a used one if necessary.

Lastly, While $1200 seems like a lot, to get outstanding action photos in all kinds of light you may have to up the budget. Good glass is not cheap. And I can almost guarantee that if you start out with lesser quality lenses you will soon be wanting to or even upgrading the glass. While spending more at first may hurt you will save a lot in the long run.

Best of luck and be sure to have fun.
Your budget is approximately $1,200. Some suggest... (show quote)


I can't agree more, except maybe with the 2.8 recommendation. That's a budget buster right there, and although a GREAT piece of glass, the slower version in MUCH cheaper, and with the great in-camera noise reduction now days, she can use a higher ISO to get the results she wants. Combine that with software noise reduction (lightroom works wonders), and she making a huge savings. Of course, if she can afford the 2.8, jump on it.

But wholeheartedly agree with spending the money upfront and take the pain now, instead of the regret of not having the right equipment.
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Oct 18, 2013 11:23:03   #
Wall-E wrote:
NO!

The numbers you repeated are the focal length of the lenses.
The larger the number, the more it magnifies.

The 'speed' is specified by the f number and it's reversed from what you would think. A smaller number lets more light in than a higher number.
Most people shooting action sports buy lenses with f number of 2.8 or smaller. And the smaller the number the more they cost.

I rented a Nikon D7100 with a 70-300 f 2.8 for shooting High School football under the lights. As with any higher level camera, it takes a while to get used to it and understand how to make it do what you want, but the images are pretty good.

As someone else mentioned, I would suggest you consider a Nikon D7000. It's an older version of the D7100.
Adorama (a very reputable dealer) has a kit with a 55-200mm lens for just over $1000, with a $200 rebate, putting it right in your range.
http://www.adorama.com/INKD7000L4.html

Whatever you end up purchasing, I *STRONGLY* recommend that you get some hands-on training on how to use your new camera. And how to deal with the images it makes.
NO! br br The numbers you repeated are the focal ... (show quote)


Great advice. Get as much knowledge as you can, and practice as much as you can. I didn't look to see where you're from, but in the US we have Meetup groups that are great for photographers.
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Oct 18, 2013 11:22:00   #
Great advice. Get as much knowledge as you can, and practice as much as you can. I didn't look to see where you're from, but in the US we have Meetup groups that are great for photographers.
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Oct 18, 2013 11:10:12   #
Hi, I read the first 2 pages and skipped tot he end, so forgive me if I've skipped something and sound redundant.

I shoot both Nikon and Canon. What I'm going to say will start a firestorm, so if you want to PM me for more info, that would be cool.

If you're going to be shooting primarily sports, the it's Canon. No brainer. If your boys are going to be playing ball by candlelight, then perhaps Nikon would be the better choice. :-) The reason is that Canon has faster lenses, and their bodies drive their lenses much faster than Nikon, more noticeably in the upper level cameras, but also with the lower models. What this means for you, is that when you're trying to get an action shot, you can much more quickly focus from one thing to the next. MUCH FASTER! Of course, you're going to have to spend some money for the lenses. My advice to people who ask about equipment is always this: Figure out your body (for you, something with a high FPS speed....a used Canon 7D perhaps...awesome body), then figure out the absolute maximum amount you can spend on the glass (lens) -- then double it. But a fast zoom would be in order, but that will blow your budget right there. Just remember, there's alot of talk about a 2.8 70-200 (which is an awesome lens), but you can get the 4 version for much cheaper and you're only giving up 1 stop. And if you buy used you'll be saving even more. Just some things to think about...but if you're wanting to get some good photos, you're really going to have to get the best you can afford. When it comes to what you're trying to do (and sports and nature are the most expensive specialties), you're going to have to spend some money to get the results you want.

The good thing is that with ebay and craig's list, you can find good used equipment, and you can sell your stuff easily too.

You can also look into renting equipment and trying it out first and see what you like.

Hope that helps.
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Oct 2, 2012 10:26:20   #
Yes, the radiating is due to overexposure. If you're also tlaking about the "sun" burst, that's due to a small aperture and the light leaking through the blades. I like it though.
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Oct 1, 2012 10:08:02   #
You can take two shot and blend them in PS. first shot with glasses. Second shot, have every remain still and remove glasses and take another shot. Use a layer mask and blend them in PS.
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Oct 1, 2012 09:52:17   #
Ok, nobody is going to like this answer, but here goes.

With all due respect, there is nothing special about your shot of the buck. Certainly, it is a lovely shot, but nothing special about the subject matter of the manner in which it was shot or composed. The paint artist could find this subject matter in a bijillion other places and from a bijillion other sources. She can also just find the subject matter from a bijilion books and compose her painting from several other photos.

She chose your photo probably as a favor to you. There is no reason for her to have to use your photo for her own gain.

Now, it took you 1/60th of a second to take that photo, and whatever time it took you to aim your camera. If you used a tripod, then it took you and additional 30 seconds to snap that shot, along with the hundreds of other ones you took (I know I never take just one when I'm shooting wildlife). On the other hand, it could take her days or weeks for her to complete her painted composition. If you like her work, you're coming out on the winning end of this deal.

If she's planning on selling her work, and it does sell, then people are buying it for her artistic merit, not your compositional merit, for once again, this composition can be found in a bijillion other places.
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Jul 22, 2012 11:32:47   #
JOHN438 wrote:
I finally got a chance to work on my new photoshop the last day or two and am getting pretty satisfactory results out of bad camera settings, so it's not all bad for the website.


John,

I've responded to you on your other thread. Great work you are trying to do. I'm the guy that suggested not cutting off the dog heads, and run the neck out of the frame. Another thing I might suggest: Cut outs of animals leave people very cold, even if you're doing the whole body. It makes that animal look like a product, like a Nike shoe or something.

There was a horse photographer a while ago that tried removing "distracting" backgrounds from show jumping shots and pleasure shots. He did a great job and spent a lot of time isolating the subjects, but none of the photos sold. Just my two cents worth.
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Jul 22, 2012 11:02:25   #
steve40 wrote:
That is a real lame way, of learning anything about your camera. In fact you wont.

What you need is to learn, something about exposure. Then you will understand!, the settings on your camera.


Is this a haiku? Am I missing something? Or is this just poor punctuation?
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Jul 22, 2012 10:56:01   #
steve40 wrote:
No one should ever use the crutch of automatic, to try to learn anything about camera settings, and exposure.

To start with proper exposure has nothing to do with learning settings, but how to apply them. That is only learned by studying things like light and shadow, exposure, and other boring things like that. There is no shortcut, or magic set of numbers that will do it. :)


I have to disagree somewhat. How many of us have missed a great shot because we were in manual and set up for something completely different than the shot we needed. I always say to go on Auto of Program just in case you need to take something fast. Then you will have the option of more control if you have the time.

Also, John makes a great point. If the camera is programmed to take a best shot in Auto, then changing the ap or ss should get the other setting to that predetermined "best" setting for exposure, which is true. He didn't say (well, I haven't read the whole thread yet) what is different about the shots, and it might just be grain due to a change in ISO. But again, if the camera chooses the "best" settings, then changing to semi-manual and keeping one of those settings, in theory, the camera should choose the exact same settings based on "best".
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Jul 21, 2012 13:22:14   #
Crimefighter7 wrote:
Also Mac has instant on. No booting! I think that some PC's are starting to have this feature.


Yes, that's one of the things I love about my Mac, but PC essentially has the same feature, it just uses more juice.
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Jul 21, 2012 12:00:43   #
Crimefighter7 wrote:
Macs blow PC away. Not sure why others are having trouble running programs on Macs. There are several programs that you can install on your Mac to run any program you can on a PC.



But then you're making your Mac essentially a Windows based machine, and introducing a bunch of junk that takes away form the streamlined platform that makes Mac so great.

Additionally, there are business based (at least for me....medical) programs that don't work with windows conversions.
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Jul 20, 2012 00:30:06   #
coastlawyer wrote:
mdorn wrote:
coastlawyer wrote:
She could sue you. If so, even if you win, you will have legal expenses.


Won't she also have legal expenses if she sues? And if she wins, what will be the damages if the photographer posts her pics on his website? This is not a rhetorical question. I'm curious what sort of claim she would have.


She would be represented by a plaintiff lawyer who will accept as payment a contingency (a share of the amount.) Expenses will also be paid out of the verdict. If defense wins, neither the plaintiff
nor lawyer is paid.

In this hypothetical situation, the civil defense lawyer will be paid by the hour plus expenses.

Economics dictate a plaintiff lawyer is unlikely to accept a case with little chance of winning. But there are many exceptions to this general rule.

The plaintiff lawyer is required to prove damages. My guess is the harp player may be entitled to some damages, nominal, if the photos are published without her permission. If the web site "sells" the photos, then actual damages may occur as well as punitive damages, all owed by the photographer.

The question as I saw it is digital, not analog. Should the photographer publish the photo without a release? Digital answer is "no."
quote=mdorn quote=coastlawyer She could sue you.... (show quote)


Actually, the harpist would have no case, at least in the US. The case would be thrown out on case law.
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