I shot with an antique Canon 10D and finally bought a Mark III. I didn't know they would continue the cheaper selling Mark II.

I bought the Mark III because I wanted the latest and I keep what I buy for a long time. But the reason I bought the Mark III was so I could have the best and get the best lenses, Zeiss lenses.

It turns out that the Mark III is the only Canon body that is NOT compatible with Zeiss lenses. I found this out after it was too late. So now I have a Mark III and I watch all my photog buddies using Mark II's making great images with their cameras that I simply can't.

The glass IS more important overall in making a decision.

I don't give a crap what snide remarks these ignoramuses left. In the end I sold the lens anyway. The guy that bought it didn't even leave a post. He just sent a check and that was it. Couldn't happen to a nicer guy. He's happy, I'm happy...

And thanks for your comment!
:thumbup:

They know exactly what they're doing. They are in business to make MONEY. If they can bargain you down to nothing, that is their goal. They deal with thousands of people. If you don't like the deal then they don't really get hurt. You're the adult. It's strictly your choice. If you want more money then sell elsewhere and be prepared to WAIT. That's it, plain and simple... :XD:

I've sold things right here, and nobody complained...

That's a fine lens. The lens also comes with a warrantee. If it's good the length of the warrantee then chances are it'll be good for the next 10+ years.

Unless you're a klutz and drop it...

Save your money. Buy a nice B&W UV filter for it!!!

Thanks for the compliment! I've shot some HDR by hand too but to really make sure that maximum clarity is achieved I use a tripod. When I do HDR I usually am on a mission to do it and it's not just happenstance on-the-fly.
And sometimes I cheat and use the software on just one image. Whatever works...
:mrgreen:

When you shoot HDR you should be using a tripod because you don't want movement in between the number of exposures that you're taking. You CAN get away with not using a tripod but the results will NOT be the same because of camera shake induced by breathing, etc...

The worst thing you can do is not using the same f/stop because the depth of field will be different for each exposure. You want to have a decent amount of depth of field throughout, like f/8, f/16, f/22...

To get the maximum amount of clarity the ISO should be left at 100, or even 80, and that should definitely not change.

The only thing that should be changing is the shutter speed, and that is usually done by the camera by using the automatic bracketing features in most modern cameras.

The images, since some of them will probably require a longer shutter speed should be set off with a remote shutter release or a cable release. You don't want to induce camera shake by touching the camera while it's taking the exposures.

I use Photomatix Pro software to combine my images. You can download a freebie trial version from their website until you feel comfortable to buy a full version to use.

The trick is to take your time setting up and being consistent. Have a plan before you go out and stick to your plan. Relax and enjoy the process. If you make mistakes along the way it's OK.

Here's just one image that I'm proud of. Check it out...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/skydiverbob1/7755689630/

Thanks, that's interesting! :thumbup:

It's like L.L.Bean. You order something. You pay for the item. It's shipped. Satisfaction guaranteed...

Most mail order is conducted this way.

If you need to verify my honesty & integrity I can hook you up with references in the skydiving community where people have known and dealt with me for over 20 years.

I don't know what else to tell you. Reputation and trust is everything to me. That's it!

If I'm shooting with a 16Gig card I have all the room I need.

When you export it in Lightroom I believe it's not crunching the info the same as in-camera for the final JPG.

If I need the speed I'll do as you suggest. Thanks!

No, that's not it. I figured it out.

In the Preferences Menu/General/Import Options there's an option: Treat JPEG files next to raw files as separate photos.

Then you also need to Synchronize folder under the Library folder.

This just seems like too much freakin, fruckin work...

I always shoot RAW and JPG together so I always have two options. There's always the delete button to open space on the hard drive...

Does anyone know how to extract the JPG's in Lightroom 4?

The RAW files are right there but I can't find the JPG's...
I see them fine when I go to Bridge in Photoshop CS5.

Usually I do my editing in Lightroom first, and then if I have to, I tweak them in Photoshop.

I know it's probably simple but I'm not getting it...

The condition is mint. It's had a filter on it since it came out of the box. I don't have any images of the lens itself, only what I did with it.

The best examples would be viewable on my flickr.com. If interested look for skydiverbob under 'members' and then go to the Machu Piichu set. I used this lens there for the entire set.

I don't do paypal. You send a check, when it clears I send the lens. I pay the shipping.

Yes, a very crisp one at that.

Yeah, go smoke another joint! hahahaha
:thumbup:

Slightly used and in very clean condition. Included is a "Canon" UV Haze filter. The filter has been on the lens from the beginning. Very sharp!

I just want to upgrade. That's it in a nutshell. Thanks for the interest!