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Oct 13, 2013 13:17:53   #
mikeford45 wrote:
Can you add text in LR5. If not how can I add text to a photo.
I just took photos of my 50th reunion and want to add captions.
Thanks


Funny coincidence. My 50th high school reunion was last weekend and I had the same challenge with text. After some experimenting, I found the easiest thing to do was import in PSE without any adjustments or keywords in LR.

I wanted to add the names of classmates but quickly found out that I had to switch between black and white text depending upon where the names went. Also, I had to adjust the type size. IMPORTANT: save the files as PSD's in case you have to reedit or change a name. Export right from PSE.

PSE 11 has a nice auto-adjust tool that handle most basic edits. I did not have the time to do much more editing. One closed-eyes person had to be changed to bright-broad-smile. Despite all this, my class of about 90 still required hours to do.

Add the names in PSE and they appear in LR. A lot of work but satisfying in the end.
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Oct 13, 2013 08:38:32   #
Unfortunately, Adobe is cloudy about future pricing and this cloud creates a problem. One version of the offer says "all for US$9.99/month for as long as you continue your membership†. " but in the grayed out renewal footnote, it says "After the first 12 months, we will automatically renew your contract based on the current price of the offering."

Adobe, which is it? If they cut out downloads and that could happen the way things are going to the cloud, then they really hold you captive.

Even at only $9.99 monthly, I am still not convinced this is the way to go for me.
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Oct 11, 2013 13:54:08   #
Wall-E wrote:
According to the email ad I received last month, as long as you don't let it lapse, the $9.99 price is FOREVER.
BUT, this offer expires December 31st.


Could post the email or send it to me? I did not get it and would like to see it.
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Oct 11, 2013 09:06:06   #
A justified concern. Mine too. I guess that once they get us to the cloud, they can jack up the price.
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Oct 3, 2013 08:18:57   #
120 was the world standard. Kodak altered the spool hole and renamed it 620. That way, if you had a Kodak camera, you had to use their film. The only difference. Likewise, for a few other sizes.
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Oct 3, 2013 08:14:53   #
Wonderful. The first one is spectacular. How about posting how you shot them?
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Oct 2, 2013 08:57:01   #
This quote from the 40's is as true today as it was back then: enlarging makes a good photo better and a bad one worse.
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Sep 26, 2013 10:13:33   #
Sorry silvers but I did not intend to insult and I still consider the post confusingly written. However, to the point. The purpose of the white balance is to reproduce the colors of the original scene as faithfully as possible. Relying on memory and adjusting in post-preprocessing fail at that. Picture taking is science; interpreting pictures is art. Let's stick to the science. You need an objective reference point and way to measure it accurately. That is what a gray card, color temperature or Expodisc does. Adjusting in pp is essentially unnecessary unless you want to change the artistic intent. If close enough is good enough, then stick to the camera's awb. Regardless of the camera's setting, they are all guesswork. Relying on published tables is no better.

Shooting raw does not solve the problem other than you might have a wider range of adjustments. This reminds me on an old saw: if you do not know where you are going, any train can take you there.

Either use awb, a color temperature meter or Expodisc for color temperature. All else is guess work.
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Sep 26, 2013 07:28:29   #
This histogram does not measure light. The light meter does that. The histogram displays the light measured by the light meter. Light meters give an overall number to all the light while the histogram shows the amount of light according to its brightness.

This has two practical results. The histogram shows blown out highlights, meters do not. The histogram allows you to capture the maximum amount of tonal information. You can always throw it away later but at least you have it in case you later decide to use it.
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Sep 26, 2013 07:18:20   #
Not sure what your comment or question is because the grammar is so poor. For most people, AWB is the safe bet because they do not understand it. However, for those who want more accurate results, that is, pictures what reflect the original as accurately as possible, then you must use a calibrated system such as a meter or Expodisc. They make a world of difference.
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Sep 8, 2013 16:59:13   #
[quote=rpavich]You could also set the 1/250 and f/4 and set an auto ISO and let the camera decide on the exposure. /quote]

Minor correction in concept. You have already decided the exposure at 1/250 and f/4. The auto ISO just decides what sensitivity is needed to satisfy those settings. On the Canon, you get the auto ISO by dialing the ISO all the way down and then "A" pops up.
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Sep 8, 2013 07:41:21   #
GemLenz, before or after or both, just let them pose themselves. Have them talk to each other, to you, change positions, seat one and stand the other, reverse that. In other words, let them be themselves. You never know what you will get. And if you do not know them, they will bring out themselves.
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Sep 7, 2013 23:13:07   #
49erfan21 wrote:
I have a canon rebel t3i and will be using a tamron 70-200 mm 2:8. It is bright and sunny and will be for kickoff but will be under the lights at halftime. Will be shooting from the stands. What settings would you use? Any help appreciated. Will be using a monopod.


If you are not on the sidelines, leave the camera at home and enjoy the game. Please do not ask what settings to use. You figure that out at the game. The shutter has to be fast enough to catch the action, the aperture small enough to compensate from focusing errors. The shutter speed depends upon distance to subject, direction of subject and, of course, how fast the subject is moving. ISO high enough to give you both. Shoot raw and use your histogram to check exposure. Avoid shooting into the sun.

The 200 is still too short to capture much action on the opposite side of the field but try anyway. Unless you are really good with the monopod, leave that at home.

Final advice. Set the camera on high speed with AI-servo focusing (I think this is the right mode). The action is too fast and viewing too uncertain to catch the best shot. Just hold down your finger and shoot away. Do not be surprised if you shoot 300 pictures. Do not waste your time looking at your shots because you will miss new ones.
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Aug 28, 2013 09:24:00   #
Doc, I shot a launch in February, 2001, at the Cape. Used a Canon EOS Elan II with film and no metadata. Launch time was about 6 PM so the setting sun provided the dramatic lighting. No tripod. The rocket provided enough light and I used the automatic exposure. You do not need a time exposure because the exhaust plume lasts a long time.

You can use any variety of lenses but I suspect you will use the longer ones because of the distance from the launch pad. I doubt if you will see much of the detail of the rocket itself. You will have plenty of time to set up. Just hope they do not scrub the launch.

Good luck and post your shots.






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Aug 27, 2013 05:51:24   #
If you are looking to buy paper, I have a lot that I no longer use. Would you want to buy it?
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