In manual, you are setting the speed, not the camera-as others have stated. I would recommend not using f22 for landscapes as you will probably get diffraction effects which cause the picture to be unsharp. Try to go no higher than f11.---f8 is good as the previous reply has recommended.
Shoot RAW and convert to B & W in post processing. On my Nikons I can set the Picture Mode to monochrome. This allows me to view the image on the LCD in B & W as if it were a jpeg. However the image that is recorded is RAW and retains all the color information.
After processing in Lightroom you can export (save) a copy of the image as a jpg or tiff or many other file types of your choosing. The original image is still non-destructively available in LR if you want to make changes at a later date.
I don't think it is fair to say that photoshop has more of a learning curve than elements. If you know elements and then migrate to photoshop I believe a very high percentage of your skills will be directly transferrable and you will be up and running right away and able to do the same things that you were doing in elements. Where the learning curve comes in is in using the features that were not available in elements. You can learn a little at a time on an as-needed basis.
Yes- but you need to own an earlier version of Photoshop.
I agree that Lightroom 5.2 is a good way to start. It is very powerful and can do 90% + of what one needs. I would say I am an advanced amateur. I started off with elements and that was ok for a while. But I found that some of the plugins I wanted to work would only work in Photoshop and not elements. I now subscribe to Photoshop CC. If you only use 1 CC app it is $20 per month for Photoshop. I am very pleased with Photoshop CC. If you are a beginner Photoshop CC works fine and is similar to using Elements. As you progress you can incrementally add skills and learn how to use the more advanced program features-they are there when you are ready. Elements is very good and sometime you can get a good deal on it. You can always start with that and switch to Photoshop CC if and when you outgrow Elements.
FYI 14 bits is equivalent to 2 to the 13th power or 8192. This is equivalent to only 8 decimal places, not 14.
1/8192=0.00012207
1/8191=0.00012209
Thanks for the suggestion. I'm going for 10 days and shoot
RAW files. Typical file is 30 mb from my Nikon d7100. So I could store about 1000 images. That might be cutting it close.
I would like to backup from my SD card while travelling in Italy and would prefer to not bring a laptop. Can I do this if I buy a portable hard drive?
If you have already taken the picture you must crop tro 3x2. You can set the aspect ratio using the LR crop tool. Then when you Export you can set the shortest edge to 2000 px in the export setting.
I use Alien Skin Blow-Up. It got very good reviews.
I believe this is what you are referring to:
http://nikonrumors.com/2013/10/21/the-upcoming-nikon-retro-full-frame-camera-will-not-have-video-possible-announcement-on-november-6th.aspx/
It is a full frame camera and is not manual. From what I understand it will be about $3000.
Under File in the menu, you can Export it as a jpg. An excellent resource for Lightroom is D65's Lightroom Workbook by Seth Resnick & Jamie Spritzer.
Hi Rocky,
I am not that familiar with printshop so I Googled it. Compared to Lightroom it seems to be more of a cookbook application that provides effects and may provide limited ability to make selective adjustments. Lightroom 5.2 provides a sophisticated capability to organize your images and is a powerful photo editor. It's Develop module gives you the ability to make non-destructive edits giving you global and local control over many (all?) exposure parameters such as white balance, contrast, shadows, highlights, brightness, clarity (mid-tone contrast), sharpening, noise reduction etc. It has many other features.
It also has a powerful print module. If you use Lightroom, you won't need/use print Shop. - Steve
When refurbs are advertised, the shutter count is usually mentioned. You can get the shuuter count from the exif data of an image. Easiest way is to upload a jpeg to Flickr. Flickr has a feature that allows you to read the exif data. There are also free programs you can download that will read exif data of an image.