As a relative newbie to digital photography, I'm not sure I understand the desire to crop or delete in the camera. If you are using some PP software, why not download them all into some temporary file for review before doing anything else. This gives the opportunity to see the photos in a larger format for critical examination and culling the "less good" and poor shots.
After the culling, I can do the cropping and any other 'adjustments" I want.
The primary reason for the trends towards leasing of programs rather than being allowed to buy them is GREED on the part of the software publisher, especially Adobe, and is the reason I'm not going to upgrade my PSE10. It works just fine for what I need, and I'm no longer in business so I can't write off the costs.
If I have a bunch of photos, I import them into a Temp Hold folder to review and delete the bad (less good?). The remainder I move as I get time into Subject or Event folders subdivided by year if the event is repetitive.
This test must be for the lady photographers among us. Don't feel bad guys, most men have some degree of color blindness & is made worse by refusing to admit it!.
I've always been told NOT to use alcohol on a coated lens eyeglasses and that coating is designed to take more physical abuse than camera lenses, ie. sand, dust, salt, oils; and micro fiber cloth is better than tissue no chance of tiny wood remnants.
If they don't come clean with a very gentle wiping with the micro-fiber, I use a gentle spray of eye-glass cleaner and re-wipe with micro fiber.
For you professionals: Is there any problem with this procedure?
JCor,
I'm not a pro and even though I've been "messing around" with photography since the early 50's, I would not even consider being "the" wedding photographer--too much potential for disaster at a friends wedding; it is a specialty, and most of the photos can not be re-shot. There is a well known saying: "No good deed goes unpunished"! That said, I'm going to offer some suggestions: they may be worth just what you pay for them!
One do you have a non-pro friend who is an experienced photographer who has done weddings & might be able to do it, even if for some short money? You could give that as a wedding present.
If you decide to undertake the project, look at some friends' recent albums and see what is "in vogue" and being shot at weddings these days so you have a starting list of the shots you need.
PRACTICE taking some outside shots at similar distances an at enough after 3 PM to replicate the lighting conditions.
If you do get someone else to do the "Album shots" take your camera anyway; frequently some of the best candid wedding shots come from the amateurs with cameras--the pro can only be in one place at a time. The guests get a different view of the same part of the event. One of the photos I took at my daughter's wedding is considered the best of the day of the couple alone.
Interesting photo and reflections. We don't see very many of those twin keel jobs on this side of the pond.
As a sailor (IP32) and amateur marine photographer I like #1 better! To me, #2 looks too processed .
I take shoot photos in the maximum camera image jpeg format, 18MP, and do PP with PSE10. I mark all my originals that are worth saving with one star and make a duplicate for any serious PP and save that as a "save as" with two stars. Occasionally, & only if I am only doing some minor cropping, I may save it over the original jpeg
Sportyman,
Thanks, I realized the ISO & noise relationship, but thought I had read that the "Noise Problem" generally started at ISO's over 600; I have mine (Canon 60D)set to NGT 800--the next lower limit of 400 max seems too low. However the other functions are set, unlike Marko I can get down to 100. I just never considered using it and generally shoot with shutter priority.
Gunslinger conveniently forgets (1) all the wages to the people in the production chain prior to the usually young, part time workers who serve up the burgers--they all get the minimum wage (or more)increase too, (2) most people working at the minimum rate are not trying to live on that wage--it is extra money, (3) most workers at McD's, BK & the like are already over the minimum rate, and when you raise the minimum wage you squeeze out some, usually beginning, workers so they have to start over at the bottom if they find another job.
The actual cost of the increase, even if it is just $.05/hr is a lot more than that nickle; remember the employer also pays 7.62% of the gross wages for FICA, Unemployment insurance is also based on, gross wages as is Workmen's Comp., and for small employers it often affects their Liability insurances so the accumulated costs far exceed the $.05 for the part time kid, or adult, at the final Point of Sale.
The reason the unions mostly support Min. Wage Increases is that they make the next negotiated wage several multiples greater. And Liberals, well most of them have never worked in the private sector, run a business, or had to meet a payroll, and just don't understand real Economics in the real world, ie. outside the Government or Academia.
All that said, even allowing for experience and education, the disparity between the bottom line workers has become ridiculously disproportionate.
As a digital beginner I have to ask,"Why would you want such a low light sensitivity"?
I generally set the camera for a fixed and high shutter speed and let the camera pick the aperture and ISO--within preset limits. I can then concentrate on the subject & framing knowing that I will freeze the action. If you want to pan the action, the fast shutter will also stop the background blur so you'll have to slow down the shutter