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Posts for: Leitz
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Oct 12, 2014 15:06:10   #
Nikon_DonB wrote:
Certainly did NOT ask for yours!


Webster's gives an excellent definition of statement, as well as of opinion.
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Oct 12, 2014 14:48:06   #
Nikon_DonB wrote:
Well MT. If the responses to this thread are any indication of how many have been pre-ordered, I should have mine next week and I will still have green trees here, mostly.
I think there were maybe 4 to 6 positive responses and I thank those "Hoggers" with the "stones" to chime in.
As far as the rest, who think it's a "BIG" secret; Grow-up and keep it to yourself, Who Cares!


If you don't want opinions, don't ask for them!
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Oct 12, 2014 12:21:28   #
Chefneil wrote:
It is as it says. I started at ISO 100 and increased until the camera maxed out at 3200


This is the very first test I perform with a new digital camera, prevents unpleasant surprises. I would recommend this to everyone shooting digital.
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Oct 12, 2014 11:47:35   #
ole sarg wrote:
to aperture and lens.


:?: Aperture is separate from lens :?: :?:
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Oct 12, 2014 11:06:51   #
Mark7829 wrote:
If you have spikes on the histogram, you have lost data. Spikes in the shadows (left side), too dark/black, lost detail. Spikes in the highlights (right side), too light/white, lost detail. Now compensate, aperture, ISO, shutter speed. Try for balance. Your first shot is a test shot and adjust accordingly. Often, you may take several shots to get it right. If the dynamic range is too much, bracket. You don't have to use the camera's bracketing feature. You can manually take 3- 5 shots at the extremes and blend in post. Not sure where to start - ISO 100, F/16 at 1/25 sec.

PS; Explose for the light, get as much detail from the highlights as possible. You can likely retrieve detail from the shadows but there is no detail from overexposed highlights. Careful- noise is hiding in the shadows.
If you have spikes on the histogram, you have lost... (show quote)


If you read the original post, more specifically the camera referred to, you may perhaps offer a different suggestion. :)
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Oct 12, 2014 10:38:02   #
Mark7829 wrote:
Watch your histogram .... expose for the light.


Perhaps you could explain the wizardry involved here?
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Oct 12, 2014 09:15:43   #
Gene51 wrote:
Ok. I understood your reply to suggest that lack of fill flash is a minor issue. I understood Haydon's comment to mean that with the other accessory mounted in the hot shoe, you can't put a flash unit there if you want to use fill.


By the way, I tried using a Metz 60 CT-4 with the 60-42 telephoto attachment when photographing waterfowl from a blind and found it spooked them, so now I try to face West in the morning and East in the evening. Raptors and vultures seem not to notice.
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Oct 12, 2014 08:28:46   #
Gene51 wrote:
Not true - you are often on the wrong side of the light - either strong sidelight or backlight, when a fill flash is priceless. A Better Beamer will throw enough light to illuminate a bird 80 ft away with some fill light. As far as mounting it, if you use an Arca-Swiss plate on the tripod collar, you can attach a Wimberley F1 Flash bracket - which raises the flash above everything, yet places it in line with the support, so you don't really change the balance point much and won't interfere with hot shoe mounted accessories.
Not true - you are often on the wrong side of the ... (show quote)


Haydon's comment concerned the unavailability of the camera's hot shoe for a flash unit, which it appears we both agree is a minor issue.
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Oct 12, 2014 08:11:44   #
bull drink water wrote:
sell my stuff???? are you crazy?????????????? I still have most of my equipment from the 70's.


Wise man. I still have (and use) an Exakta purchased new in 1961.
Confucius say: A fool and his photographic equipment are soon parted.
(However, after 22 months, the equipment is probably sold.)
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Oct 12, 2014 07:08:09   #
yaterman96 wrote:
Use live view an the histogram


This may be a bit difficult to do with an FM3a.
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Oct 12, 2014 07:01:35   #
JoeyMed wrote:
If you had a limit of $400 for a used dslr which one would you chose? Which focal length? Thanks for your thoughtful reply.


Klaus pretty well nailed it. Quality, reliability, and you know the mount won't change when new models are released.
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Oct 12, 2014 06:55:48   #
donrent wrote:
On my old 35 it was 50'... What is it today on digitals such as a Rebel ?


Infinity focus is specific to a lens. It has nothing to do with the camera.
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Oct 12, 2014 03:23:05   #
Haydon wrote:
I can see an immediate problem when you start considering fill flash unfortunately since the hot shoe is in use but nonetheless an interesting setup.


A lack of fill flash would be a fairly minor issue when photographing birds on the wing.
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Oct 12, 2014 01:59:01   #
colnago wrote:
I have been trying out a new B & W 3.0 ND filter (10 stop) on my D7100 with a Nikkor 17 to 55 2.8 lens. Exposure is not a problem but all the images have a strong red cast. I stacked three Tiffen ND filters on the same lens that equaled 9 stops and the White Balance is spot on. Camera was set the same for the ten stop and the stacked nine stop. If I hand hold the 10 up to a light it has a red cast. Markings on the ten stop: B & W 77 110 ND 3.0 10 BL 1000x E


Could it be that the B+W filter itself may have a red cast?
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Oct 10, 2014 21:17:28   #
JohnSwanda wrote:
With Photoshop or other editing programs, one of the great features is layers. You can make adjustment layers for Curves, Hue/saturation, Levels, to apply either to the whole image or to selections on the images. Then you can adjust color or tonality and come back later after you have saved the image and change the settings.


Thanks for replying. I'll be giving Photoshop a trial, as well as Lightroom, Paintshop, &c., and see just what they do.
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