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Posts for: Leitz
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Oct 17, 2014 13:15:40   #
rpavich wrote:
I just want to make a suggestion for noobs.

When you are taking pictures, and you are about the hit the shutter, think about the light and ask yourself if it's what you want or if it needs to be improved.

I've read (several times recently) about how someone was "forced to" take the images in the crappy light or "couldn't change anything" about the situation before hitting the shutter and now wants to "fix it in post"

I'm going to suggest that you don't settle for what nature has for you...or for what your indoor environment hands you; change it..modify it...direct it...do something other than just take it.

Start to modify your thinking when it comes to lighting.


If you are in dappled lighting outdoors...do something about it...put up a sheet and diffuse the light, block the light...move, turn...do SOMETHING.

If you are inside and the overhead lights are those "in ceiling" lights that are directional; and your subject will have raccoon eyes...then either move them...have them change their head direction, use a reflector...WHATEVER you have to do but...

Don't settle.


Give this some thought the next time you start to pull the trigger....ask yourself "is the light like I really want it or am I settling?


There is a pretty good book on Amazon called "Shooting in Sh%*TTY light" by Lindsay Adler that is worth getting.

It outlines the 10 crappy lighting situations and how to modify them into something desirable.


Just a suggestion.
I just want to make a suggestion for noobs. br br... (show quote)


Can you recommend a good deer whisperer to get that stag to stand still while I set up my reflectors?
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Oct 16, 2014 08:53:38   #
winterrose wrote:
Ringing the good wife from the pub and telling her you are working late and don't wait up. Try doing that with a Canon......


By Jove! you've hit on an idea. Replace the DSLR video with a cell phone! (I'm ringing up the patent office straight away :lol: ).
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Oct 16, 2014 08:38:08   #
Mogul wrote:
For the average shooter, they're close enough that the smartphones are winning the war. Look at the statistics. And the advances that phone makers are making in technology are more practical than the camera companies.

When I had an issue with illegal parking in our lot last week, I didn't reach for my 24mp camera. I used my iPhone, mailed the picture to the ranger which he was able to imbed in the citation; try that with a Canon or Nikon.


A closeup of an outfielder catching the ball just before it clears the wall, taken from the 3rd base side with a DSLR and fast telephoto - try that with a cell phone.
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Oct 16, 2014 08:31:39   #
Menkaure wrote:
Dudes... You are being squeezed out by technology. Just look at the pictures your average smart-phone takes! You'd better do something to keep customers or go the way of the film camera. (Reducing prices comes to mind as a start.)
My Niece's $500 smart phone takes as good a pictures as my Canon SXi. Read the hand writing on the wall dudes...


Get this letter was signed by all the Sports Illustrated, National Geographic, newspaper, wedding, wildlife, etc., etc., photographers - surely then Nikon and Canon will sit up and take notice. And if I could do no better with an SXi than someone with a smart phone, I'd be embarrassed to admit how poor a photographer I was.
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Oct 16, 2014 02:51:52   #
faygo wrote:
I have been asked to take some photos of the family in late afternoon sun. I could use some suggestions on how to get good facial exposure without facing them into the sun. There is some shade to use, but sun filters through the trees making them look splotchy. Help.


Fill flash or reflectors will solve your dilemma.
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Oct 15, 2014 10:00:53   #
cosmo54 wrote:
Leitz - no need to apologize, I wasn't the least bit offended. :-)

So lighthouse, are you really saying that with a 1.4 lens I can take a landscape photo and the entire scene will be sharp???? I thought 1.4 would give a very narrow (front to back) area that would be in focus. So you would be able to shoot a seascape and the beach would be in focus as well as a boat out on the water?

I will readily admit that I understand completely the speed and ability to shoot in the dark.....it's the dof that still has me scratching my head.

I hope that is more clear. And btw, I'm a she. :-D
Leitz - no need to apologize, I wasn't the least b... (show quote)


And to think I initially wrote "he/she," then changed it. :oops: I will not comment on depth of field, as I'm sure Lighthouse will respond. :)
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Oct 15, 2014 09:32:06   #
lighthouse wrote:
Gee you guys make things complicated when it doesn't have to be.
Give the OP a break please.
It is a legitimate question.
Your smart arse answers are unbecoming and show gaps in your knowledge.

The answer - to let in more light, to make it easier for autofocus to work, to use a faster shutter speed, or lower ISO or both.
I am a landscape/seascape photographer.
I can use this lens hyperfocally at F/1.4 in low light letting in 4 times as much light and be in focus from 50 feet to infinity.
That means that I can shoot this in almost total darkness and be sharp from front to back.(depending on the shot of course)

I do a lot of my seascape work after the sun has gone down. I shoot in live view using back button focus, usually with my 17-40 F/4L.
When the live view screen goes black and is unusable, I have put my 50mm F/1.4 on and autofocused for another 20 minutes.
Gee you guys make things complicated when it doesn... (show quote)


You have confirmed what the OP has stated he already knows.
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Oct 15, 2014 08:55:09   #
cosmo54 wrote:
Look guys......it was just a question posed by me cause I do mostly landscapes and wildlife. So I was just wondering how people use this lens. I'm aware of the amount of light getting in, it's a wide angle with short dof at 1.4. Etc

Just wondering....not buying or planing on buying or anything else. :-)


I must apologize for my offensive comment, I am attempting to understand your question. Since you are aware of the aperture issue, I can only assume you were asking why one would choose a 35mm lens, the obvious answer being for when it covers the desired field of view. If I am missing something here, would you kindly explain?
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Oct 15, 2014 07:54:59   #
Jim Bob wrote:
I would think the answer to your inquiry is self-evident.


I can think of 2 valid reasons why one would post such a question - and I'm sure the OP would not like to hear either.
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Oct 15, 2014 05:59:48   #
Probably because I've seen so many pictures of them already, I'm less than impressed with many of the sites I've visited. My first thought of Niagara Falls was, why shouldn't it fall - what's to stop it?
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Oct 14, 2014 14:36:47   #
cosmo54 wrote:
night street scenes.....thanks! that's the kind of response I was looking for. guess i wasn't clear in my original post. :-)


Was wondering why you posted the question. Now we all know.
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Oct 14, 2014 13:10:12   #
Though many mix and match combinations can be successful, it is generally preferred to use a teleconverter on lenses which the manufacturer recommends.
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Oct 13, 2014 13:01:19   #
Bridges wrote:
In my opinion Olympus lenses have always been as good as anyone else's. If you no longer have a need for the beefier and more rugged pro SLR gear it sounds like you made a good choice. Good luck with your future photography! About a week ago I saw a photographer with an interesting little SLR. I think it was a Samsung mirrorless. The weight was astoundingly light. Something I might consider in another few years.


A mirrorless SLR? Quite interesting.
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Oct 13, 2014 11:07:55   #
Screamin Scott wrote:
I have a plethora of older MF lenses (including that 35-70 AI & the AFD F2.8 version).. When looking at newer lenses, most of the "improvements" are minimal. Proper technique trumps newer technology for most people. Many don't use their existing lenses to the top of the lenses capabilities. It would take huge enlargements or extreme pixel peeping to be able to discern improvements. They may be able to be shown in bench testing, but that's not the same as real world shooting...


You and also tps are absolutely right. I also have the 35~70 f/3.5 (AIS version, which focuses closer than the AI), and have not found any newer lenses in that focal length range to be superior. That and the 50~135 f/3.5 are my two most used lenses.
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Oct 13, 2014 10:54:29   #
innershield wrote:
I just inherited an AF 50mm 1.4D lens. I have a D5200 that I was going to use it on primarily but does this lens AF on this body. If not, should I use it on my D7100. Thanks


:?: Would not any sensible person simply look it up in their owner's manual :?: :?:
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