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Posts for: A.J.R.
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Oct 21, 2013 07:25:32   #
I am also waiting to hear of a replacement for the NEX-7, especially now that Zeiss has brought out a new Tessar 16 to 70mm lens for the NEX range.
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Oct 14, 2013 07:41:08   #
Bret wrote:
Go to the main page...and click on all sections...then click subscribe on the sections that interest you.


Thanks. Have now found it.
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Oct 14, 2013 07:35:33   #
Searcher wrote:
After much debate this new section was inaugurated towards the end of July this year under the management and guidance of James Eslinger. The section got off to a flying start with lots of great information from some very knowledgeable contributors and still the occasional new topic is created.

However, James has disappeared from the forum, his last post was on 4th August and he logged in on the 5th - after that I don’t know. Towards the end of September I asked Admin if he knew anything but the answer was no. There are two reasons for my concern, the first being that if you read James's posts, he comes across as a very pleasant chap, the kind of person that I for one would like to get to know a little better so if you do read this James - come back soon.

The second reason for my concern is that when James proposed the PP section, I was all for it, and if it dwindles away I truly believe a great asset to the forum will be lost.

Post Processing is fun for some and a nightmare for others. The PP section is where members could come and either share their expertise or learn how to do simple or complex things with their images, and all without crowding out the Main Photography section. The Macro and the People sections prove the value of divorcing specialised subjects from the mainstream (have you noticed the absence of spider eyes in close up in the Gallery? ) The People section instantly comes to my mind if I'm struggling with portraits and so on.

What I'm asking for is that someone carries on the work that James started and get the PP back on track. For your information I have read every word posted in the PP section, it is well behaved, contains no politics, is humorous and not condescending.

The section needs someone to publicise its existence and encourage greater usage.
After much debate this new section was inaugurated... (show quote)


Thanks Searcher for bringing to our attention PP. I didn't know it existed (and I'm wondering how many other things that I'm missing on UHH). How do we access it?
I have questions, and just maybe the occasional answer.
And hopefuly James Eslinger can be persuded to return
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Oct 8, 2013 05:27:15   #
WAL wrote:
There is no safe light for panchromatic film. It has to be handled in total darkness.It's unlikely you'll find anything but panchromatic film. I was surprised to see the question. There is nothing to discus.


And as I said before green safelights were sometimes used in large comercial darkrooms to allow operators to get their bearings.
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Oct 7, 2013 06:09:57   #
It seems strange that you have fogging on both your negatives and prints.

Only in large commercial darkrooms are (green) safelights used with panchromatic film. Not to see by but to know were you are within the darkroom. So do not use a safelight and check out your darkroom to see if any light is entering by waiting for 5 minutes to allow your eyes to adjust. If you cannot see any light after this time it should be safe to take your film out of the dark slide.

Regarding printing, again make sure that no stray light is entering the room and the that the safelight filter is the correct one for the paper you are using. Check also that there is no stray light coming from the enlager or indeed from the body of the safe light.
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Oct 5, 2013 07:19:30   #
I had a Epson R2400 for many years and never had a problem. I was however told by the sales person when I bought it to leave it swiched on all the time, which I did. Has anyone else heard of this? I now have a R3000 and have only been swiching it on when needed. No problems so far but early days yet.
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Sep 29, 2013 06:02:33   #
I went to an Art College in the early 60’s where the emphasis was developing the eye (and not so much about developing the film) Most of the theory of photography can be learnt from books, the web and a lot can be found on sites like this. That is not to say that you don’t need to know the techniques, but training the eye is more difficult.
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Sep 20, 2013 15:44:07   #
duane13 wrote:
Do take a look at this link, and consider this simple definition: Depth of field is the point that is the closest to you in focus to the point farthest from you in focus. That might be 5' to 15', so anything closer than 5' is blurry, and anything beyond 15' is blurry because those areas are outside your depth of field. That field will change depending on your aperture setting and focal point.


Unfortunately the definition you quote from the link isn’t all together accurate. The only point of focus is that which the lens is focused on, anything in front or behind that point is only apparently sharp as the eye is unable to discern the difference. If the resulting image was enlarged beyond a certain point the part covered by the DOF would appear unsharp to the eye and only the plane on which the lens is focused could be truly sharp.
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Sep 20, 2013 05:46:11   #
The only part of the image that can be sharp is that which you focus on. The area in front and behind that plane of focus is only acceptably sharp to the eye, and that would be your depth of field. As you stop your lens down (making the aperture smaller and the f number larger) the area of acceptable sharpness increases, giving you a greater depth of field.
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Sep 17, 2013 06:31:20   #
Oil Paintings can be difficult because of reflections. A professional set up might involve using polarised lighting and filters. If the painting is a watercolour and behind glass the best solution would be to photograph it in a room lit by nothing other than 2 (identical) floodlights placed at 45 degrees (the angle of incidence = the angle of reflection) making sure they are an equal and reasonable distance from the painting. If however there is no glass good results can be obtained in a well lit room out of any direct lighting. Set your 18 to 55 lens around 30.
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Aug 30, 2013 07:54:29   #
twrozz wrote:
I want to purchase a camera to capture my grandchildren at play. With my small digital and camera phone, they realize I'm taking a photo and "pose" for me. Need a good zoom. Have no idea what to purchase


Check out any camera your thinking of buying for (so called) shutter lag (time between pressing the shutter release and the sensor capturing the shot). It is essential when photographing children on the move that your camera responds as near instantaneous as possible.
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Aug 28, 2013 05:49:55   #
You might also like to take into consideration that Lightroom 5, Photoshop CS6 and CC have full 16 bit RGB, allowing for better quality. Elements 11 has 8 bit RGB. Look at the spec. for Elements 12 when it arrives. My guess is that it will stay with 8 bit RGB. Hope to be proved wrong.
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Aug 26, 2013 06:29:24   #
GC-FineArt wrote:
In the video, the camera is clearly labeled “No. 3-A Folding Pocket Kodak Model C.” (LOL, this is not a “field camera.”) The No. 3-A’s where produced between 1903-1915, so the suggested date is plausible.

But the date of the camera is irrelevant with regard to when the film was actually exposed. Like A.J.R., I’m virtually certain this is Kodak Verichrome Pan and not the earlier Verichrome Safety Film; and as was pointed out the former wasn’t introduced until 1956. (Even if it is the “Safety Film” version, that only became available in 1931.)

Setting aside the problem of getting stable, printable negatives from film exposed, let’s say, in the latter 1950s; these cameras used 122 film, which looks a bit like 120 but is much wider (and a tad longer, I think) producing “postcard format” ( 3.25 x 5.5 in.) negatives. That poses a real problem when it comes to finding a mainstream commercial lab that still has the necessary equipment to process large format roll film. I don’t think The DarkRoom (good folks :) ) as suggested by jiminee1 and jmccl can do it as 120/620 seems to be their max size; but there are some specialized houses like Film Rescue International http://www.filmrescue.com/old-still-film-developing/# that can apparently can handle the job.
In the video, the camera is clearly labeled “No. 3... (show quote)


It would be a relatively simple matter to process the film, although not many labs would be set up for films wider than the120/620 size. A competent amateur could seesaw the film through the chemistry, in total darkness. (Suitably kited out for health and safety reasons). Kodak D76 developer should do the job, and if the film were scanned any fog could be dealt with by good editing software.
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Aug 25, 2013 07:16:39   #
jiminee1 wrote:
it's kodak vericolor film. looks like 120. It can be developed at The Darkroom


It's not a colour film. As far as I can see from the video it's a Verichrome Pan film introduced in 1956 and the 120 size was discontiued in 2002 (The 127 size, discontinued in 1995). There was an earlier version called Verichrome Safety film, introduced in 1931 and discontinued in 1956, but I think its the Pan version that was found in the camera.
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Aug 23, 2013 09:57:01   #
Yes, but it does depend on the type of portraiture, also a slightly longer lens would be better if differential focus was needed, which I assume was part of the reason that a larger aperture lens was considered (although, as already said half a stop would make little difference to the depth of field).
How often do we use a lens for portraiture at its widest aperture anyway?
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