Do the whole image, then use the History Brush to revert three corners.

A little off subject - Lighting.
Look into EquaLight software to equalize your lighting. You shoot a plain white paper at the same settings as your document/photograph, and the software creates a profile you apply to give perfectly even light (including lens falloff).

Adjusting the catch, then taking it home.

Epson printers?

System Preferences>Printers & Scanners>select AirPrint driver and hit - button.

I had the same issue. After upgrading to Sierra, Ps would quit every time I tried to print.
Apparently Sierra loaded the AirPrint driver instead of the regular one. Removed AirPrint driver, installed new regular Epson driver and all is well.

Because the camera is focused on her face, as it should be.
Nice picture that way.
If you wanted to get her whole body sharp, you would have needed to shoot at a very high f/number, and focus near her shoulders.
That way, the thicker DOF, which extends about 1/3 in front and 2/3 behind the plane of focus, will be best utilized.

Because the camera is focused on her face, as it should be.
Nice picture that way.
If you wanted to get her whole body sharp, you would have needed to shoot at a very high f/number, and focus near her shoulders.
That way, the thicker DOF, which extends about 1/3 in front and 2/3 behind the plane of focus, will be best utilized.

Not a Macro setting issue. That setting merely allows you to focus on subjects closer than otherwise.

My favorite for other than moving subjects is a geared head. The Manfrotto 3275 has 3 axis adjustment both rapid movement with gears released and prescision movement by turning knobs. When you aim the camera with the precision knobs, there is no change in aim as you release the knob. There is no position creep like you get when tightening other types of heads.

For long lenses and moving subjects, a gimbal head is the answer. I bought the inexpensive ProMaster, which has the added advantage that the lens's NPP can be aligned with the head's pivot axis for panoramas. No stop detents, but it does have
index markings every 15˚.

10

Thanks for posting the solution. I'm sure I'll make use of that sometime.

The rear filter in the Nikon 200-400 is part of the lens's optical formula and should always be used unless a different filter is put in it's place.

Canon says to use a filter to make it's L lenses weather sealed.

Got a 1:1 macro lens?
A piece of white plexiglass over a light and a negative carrier from an old enlarger can make a very good film copying station.
For color negatives, white balance on the clear (orange) part of the film, and increase contrast as needed.