If you believe this then I challenge you to take a photo without a camera.

Best,
Todd Ferguson

It is data from the sensor so of course there is some software manipulation going on just to even get to what we commonly refer to as the RAW file. My Canon can create three different RAW file sizes. This has to be manipulated with software as the sensor is still seeing the same exposure of light through the lens...at least in my Canon. Nikon may do things differently with their use of FX and DX modes on some of their cameras. There are also menu settings that likely impact the processing of the RAW files such as the High ISO Noise Reduction one on my Canon. The Canon and other manufacturer's engineers and software developers have the best knowledge of what the capabilities are and how to develop software to take advantage of the hardware. This is why the software, DPP, provided by Canon for example can manipulate their RAW files in ways other vendor's software cannot.

Best,
Todd Ferguson

Here is a sample from the DOF calculator app that I have. I used settings that can work for your lenses. Generally with all things being equal the closer you are to the subject and the longer the focal length the lens is the shallower the DOF. A 300mm lens at 10 feet at F4 has a DOF of about .05 feet IIRC...

(Download)

Perhaps think about just resetting the camera to factory defaults and trying some test shots with a magazine page and your lenses without any TC in the loop. Let me know if you have any other questions. I don't have a 7DII but my Canon camera has a similar focus system.

Best,
Todd

Not downloaded yet, these zoo ones look pretty good to me...
I am not sure how well the 1.4x TC III works with the VersionI of the 70-200. It was designed to work with later lenses I believe. I have the 70-200 2.8 IS II. I would try taking some photos with the TC out of the equation and just using the 70-200. Is the IS turned off? If you have IS on and are using higher shutter speeds I believe this could cause problems perhaps. I don't use IS for sports shooting...that would be my last resort to slow down my shutter speed very slow...

We have a place near Sharon, Pa but that is a long drive from NJ too...on the PA Ohio line... I would help you out if you were closer...bummer... Well, we can work on it this way as long as you want and think we are getting closer to an answer.

Best,
Todd

Cookie,

To me when zoomed in in Lightroom the 1st shot of the second group is still soft in focus, but it could be related to the TC being in play. I have the 2.0x TC III that I use with my 70-200 2.8 II. The Gen III TCs are the best Canon makes. I think the second shot in the second group is pretty sharp with the 24-105 and no TC. I attached a version I did a couple weeks to in Lightroom for you to compare. Which version of the 70-200 do you have? Do you use back button focus or focus with the shutter button? Back button focus would be the best in my opinion. Do you have your shooting parameters displayed not the rear LCD screen? It is a menu setting to do that... I find that handy vs looking in the viewfinder or at the top LCD screen... especially if shooting with a tripod or monopod...

Best,
Todd

(Download)

Which version of the 1.4x TC do you have?
Which version of the 70-200? You may have said but there are 4 or 5 versions.
The 24-105 doesn't accept a Canon TC as far as I know.
Have you loaded the Canon DPP software into your computer? I believe you can display the actual focus points used or should I say that locked focus for the shot in the DPP software. You may be able to do that in Lightroom or other programs but I am not recalling how to do it in Lightroom at the moment. If you look at your EXIF (Photo) data it will tell you the ISO, Aperture, Length of the Lens was zoomed to and Shutter speed for each shot. The Lightroom Library module will also display this information at the top right side of the toolbar menu. Sorry i don't recall if you said you are using Lightroom or any other program. You can also view some EXIF data in Apple Preview if you have a Mac. I will look at the other photos you added...

If you want to come to Harrisburg, NC for a couple days we will get you squared away...

Best,
Todd

Cookie,

I pulled the first image into Lightroom and I didn't see anything at all that was in focus.
That to me says you are shaking when you are taking the shot. The fence in the background is pretty evenly out of focus across the width of the shot.
I see 1/500 at F5, ISO 200 and focal length of 280mm. I would say that is fully zoomed with a 1.4TC and the 70-200. You may want to try backing off completely zoomed a little bit. But I would like to see you go with at least 2x the focal length as your minimum shutter speed... Try 1/600 minimum. F5 is OK but you may want to look at a depth of field calculator or experiment with DOF as I am not thinking you would necessarily want that fence behind in sharp focus...isolate the players would be my approach.

Set your focus to be single point, center point and continuous focus too. Put that focus point on the center body mass/chest of the player you are shooting.

You could even shoot at say F3.5 or F4 and 1/1000 to 1/2000. Set your ISO higher to get a good exposure, perhaps 400-800 ISO. Once you solve the motion issues then you can work at fine tuning the exposure components. You may want to get a DOF calculator app for your phone or tablet. I use one called Big Dawg.

Do you have a Speedlite? Some fill flash could help on some of the more static shots. But that is a subject for the future.

Best,
Todd Ferguson

How about if I said, "SO, I wrote a book called Graphic File Formats!"

Best,
Todd Ferguson

Let me correct you...

Format | Definition of Format by Merriam-Webster
https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/format
Definition of format. 1 :the shape, size, and general makeup (as of something printed) 2 :general plan of organization, arrangement, or choice of material (as for a television show) 3 :a method of organizing data (as for storage) various file formats.

Must be why I have a book called Graphic File Formats...

Best,
Todd Ferguson

I think the reason for many would be that they have not learned post processing and are just trying to use the in camera settings to get a photo or image that they enjoy. Storage and memory are very inexpensive, I have a lot of shots from 15 years ago that I wish I had in RAW format and could further edit today. To me that is the advantage of shooting both if you want jpegs right away. I only shoot RAW but I understand the reasons I do that today.

Best,
Todd Ferguson

The jpg will reflect the exposure you shot the image with as will the RAW file...not a Perfect Exposure. If you underexpose or overexpose the jpg and RAW file will show that. The jpg will have information locked in based on the shooting profile you have selected in your camera, natural, portrait, faithful, landscape, custom, etc. The RAW file can be manipulated in Post Processing much more than any jpg.

Shoot RAW and jpg and use the jpg if you want for now. One day you may be glad you have the RAW files to go back to and post process as your knowledge and skills increase. Storage is cheap and getting cheaper every day.

Best,
Todd Ferguson

Thanks for sharing.... Yes things keep changing since 911...

Best,
Todd Ferguson

I don't think filters are generally needed on digital cameras, maybe ND filters to change exposure capabilities in a really bright setting.
One of our local camera stores has literally got bins of used or unsold filters in the back hall of their showroom. I think this is very telling as to the use of filters in the largely digital world we operate in today.

Best,
Todd Ferguson

Grace,

You might look at eBay as if you are willing to do a little research on the Hog and other manufacturer websites you can probably get a better tripod for your dollar.

Best,
Todd Ferguson