(Even though I'm not sure that you really need more memory), an easy was to find out what your options are, is to run the Crucial System Scanner at:

http://www.crucial.com/usa/en

(Although unlikely in a Notebook) even within the same model, the manufacturers don't always install memory in the same configuration. It varies depending on availability.

>An added benefit for increasing your RAM is that it reduces the need for "scratch files"
>going to your HDD and this extends the life of the drive.

You are correctly describing what happens if you don't have enough RAM (i.e. only have 1 or 2 GB). However, once you have enough RAM, adding more doesn't do any good (and causes some minor performance impacts elsewhere, especially in a notebook).

> everyone here runs some photo or video programs. Photoshop is a RAM intensive program

A photo is maybe 20 MB; a GB is 1024 MB. But, there is really no reason to debate what a RAM intensive program is, because there is a quick and sure fire way to find out.

Just look at the "Resource Monitor" (while you are running your "RAM intensive program" ). If the Physical Memory line says that you have significant Available MB, then you don't need any more memory.

"Please understand that it's not IE that is crashing but ADOBE FLASH." Why do you think that it is Flash?

I'm not a big fan of Flash (or anything by Adobe, for that matter), but I haven't seen anything in davidheald1942's posts that specifically indicate that. There are lots of things that could be causing IE to crash.

WRT the (frequent) recommendation of adding more memory. Try running the "Resource Monitor" (under Accessories/System Tools in Win7, but MS likely moved it in Win8). In the Memory Tab, if the Available MB (=Standby+Free) on the Physical Memory line is bigger than 300MB or 400MB or so; then adding more memory won't help. Right now, I am running IE, Chrome, Outlook, (and no telling what else in the background), and I still have over 1200MB available out of 4GB.

Adding more memory than needed can cause other problems (especially on a laptop): hurts battery life, runs hotter, slows down reboot and hibernation, etc.

I agree with image lover "The amount of RAM you have should not cause this problem." 4GB should be plenty for running *most* programs, and certainly enough to run IE. Even if it wasn't enough, it would just cause the computer to run slow, not cause IE to crash.

If I understand correctly that you have the same problem with your previous computer, then the problem is likely with your configuration (i.e. caused by the same program running on both computers). As SteveR pointed out, it may be your antivirus. I recently had a similar problem on certain webpages after I installed Webroot Antivirus. I uninstalled Webroot, went back to Panda Cloud Free, and the problem went way.

If it is not the Antivirus, you might try disabling some of the IE add-ins (in Internet options, Programs, Manage Add-ons), and see if the problem goes away. Keep track of which ones that you disable, and then you can re-enable them one at a time until you find out which one is causing the problem.

Good Luck.

I'll second that. I have this lens, and find it to be soft.

I even sent it back to Sigma to have it "tuned" to my camera, but it is still soft.

Well, I challenge your "People used to think the world was flat... most stubborn of flat world believers" assertion:

http://www.todayifoundout.com/index.php/2013/05/people-in-columbus-time-did-not-think-the-world-was-flat

A little history: PDA's and phones used to be produced with sunlight viewable LCD (Transflective, and other technologies).

But, to be sunlight viewable, each pixel has to have a little window for the sunlight to go in, before being reflected back out. Because of this little window, the actual display producing area is smaller, and the display looks more washed out or less vibrant when viewed indoors. Specifically, less vibrant in the stores where they are sold.

Educating the buyers to the trade-off turns out to be a lost cause; the transflective models stopped selling; and now they are almost impossible to find.

OK, let's "kick it up a notch":

Does anyone know of a good bulk EXIF data editor?

I accidently set the clock in my camera to the wrong year, and now all of the photos from one trip show up in the wrong place in the timeline.

Thanks in advance.

Doesn't need to change. Where I live, sales tax is 8.25% (and we don't have a 1/4 penny coin), they would just round to the nearest dime rather than the nearest penny.
They also price gas at 9/10th of a cent (which is really silly).

Dime stores have become Dollar store, it is time to lop off a decimal place! (but I don't expect it to happen any time soon).

> A $2.00 bill wouldn't work when breaking a $5.00.

And without nickels, you can't make change for a quarter.

They really need to drop the quarter, too, and lop off a decimal place, but that is too disruptive, so it is unlikely to happen.

Sorry for the delayed response (Life got in the way :-), and it took me a while to add enough detail so that the notes make sense to anyone other than me.

Below are some of my notes on the settings that I used. These are different from the settings suggested by the (very cryptic) INON manual (which recommends putting the camera in aV mode), but these settings were taught to me by a Dive-Guide/Photo-Pro in the Philippines, and they work well for me.

For the S110 without the external Strobe:
Use tV @ 1/500 Sec.
WB: Automatic & manually correct to very blue
ISO 100
Macro
Zoom to 3.9"
Save setting to Custom

For the S110 with INON Z-240 Strobe:
Menu: Flash Mode: Auto
Use tV @ 1/800 Sec or 1/500 Sec
WB: Flash
ISO 100 (I try higher with Ring Control)
Macro
Zoom to 3.9"
Save settings to Custom
Strobe on S-TTL & ~F4

I ended up adjusting the exposure by changing the ISO with the Ring Control and strobe power. The INON strobe power control is non-intuitive, but unless you are end up using the INON strobe, I won’t go into that.

The reason for “Zoom to 3.9 inches” is that if you get too close to the subject, the strobe hits at a very sharp angle and causes harsh shadows.

For Wide Angle, I switch back to “normal” tV mode (as opposed to Custom mode, which has tV settings saved in it). On the Canon S110, the tV mode will retain different settings from the Custom Mode. I leave the strobe off (usually), because it doesn’t provide enough light and just causes backscatter. Note that I don’t have the Ikelite Wide Angle wet lens; if I did, that would probably change my use of strobe. Again, I usually adjust the exposure by changing the ISO with Ring Control.

When you ask about “color correction”, there are several different answers. If you mean post processing: No; that would probably help, but I haven’t yet had the time to experiment and learn what works best. Also, for Macro with the external strobe, it shouldn’t really be necessary. If you mean Color Filters: No; I haven’t used them either. If you mean adjust the white balance: YES; it is very important if you aren’t using an external strobe and especially when doing wide angle. The best wide angle result that I have seen (by people other than me) have been achieve by setting the white balance “in situ”, by pointing the camera at a white surface underwater at the depth, time, and direction that you plan to take the shot, and setting the custom white balance. Unless you have a third hand (or a very patient and helpful dive buddy), this is best achieved by getting a fin that has a white surface on it (or attaching a white slate to your existing fin). The Scubapro Seawing Nova fins are available in white (and are supposed to be very good fins); other fins are available with some white on them. With the S110, you can also manually adjust the white balance through the menu system (as I did for macro when not using the external strobe).

Let me know if any of this is not clear, some of the comments may be Canon S110 specific, so they may not be exactly the same for your setup.

Regards,
Joe Biker

My latest (in a long line of Point & Shoot cameras in U/W Housings) is an Canon S110 in an Ikelite with a INON strobe. It takes excellent, very sharp, Macro shots. Wide Angle is a lot more challenging. Earlier this year, it was about $340 for the camera, and $325 for the housing.

I previously used the Canon Housings, but the Canon Housing for my G11 leaked. The camera survived, but I am now nervous about the Canon housings.

I will post some pictures later and give you some notes on macro settings if you are interested.

No Problem at all. I had a technical understanding of DoF, and Aperture; but this is my first real zoom lens, and I didn't realize that it would become so severe. The DoF calculator was helpful, and the tutorial explained the implications of the zoom. I now know not to use the zoom as a crutch, and to "get closer, and then get closer" (and crack up the F stop).

Thanks again (to all of you) for your help.

OK, thanks to both of you for your help.

Thanks, Picdude.