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Posts for: johntaylor333
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Mar 13, 2019 11:35:54   #
You might also consider the 24-70 f/4L

Not as fast as the 2.8, but much smaller, lighter and less expensive. Also it has a semi-macro (0.7X) mode that works extremely well. Sharpest aperture, according to FoCal, is 4.5 at 24 mm and 5.6 at 70 mm.

Hope this helps.

Also if you have the 11-24, 24-70 and 70-200 you have a seamless focal length range.
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Mar 9, 2019 13:20:26   #
DWU2 wrote:
While others who are more knowledgeable about networking should wade in, from what I've read, Adobe does not want users to utilize LR on a networked basis, and accordingly, has made it difficult, if not impossible to do so. It seems like you would have to locate the catalog on the shared drive, otherwise, you'd have maddening issues syncing two catalogs. Also, there would be potential catalog corruption if two users concurrently accessed the catalog (which, it seems, you don't intend to do). But, maybe there's a work around - others may know.
While others who are more knowledgeable about netw... (show quote)


I think you are confusing running Lr off a networked computer (which Adobe doesn't like) and running separate copies of Lr on two different computers but accessing data on a shared drive (which is fine).
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Mar 8, 2019 11:35:52   #
I was fortunate in the mid-1990s to have a visit to the Starfire Optical Range at Kirtland AFB in Albuquerque NM.

This system used a laser to excite sodium atoms in the upper atmosphere, making an "artificial star". They then used the light coming from that artificial star to calculate all the distortions in the atmosphere at that instant. These data were used to activate 100's of motors behind the flexible primary mirror (about 2m diameter) to correct the image data for the atmospheric distortions.

To demonstrate, they focused the telescope on a very distant star. On the monitor, the star occupied almost the whole of the monitor, appearing as a fuzzy blob. Then they activated the active correction system and the star became a pinprick.

This was in the mid-1990's, so I suspect current systems are much better.

Pity the poor air force enlisted man on the roof with the kill switch (as the system was adjacent to Albuquerque airport. All night watching for planes landing or taking off! It was pretty cold, too.
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Mar 7, 2019 10:41:01   #
Genessi wrote:
I have been doing lots of printing size 5x7 8x10 11x14 But Don't know how to set printer for
81/2 x11 paper Can someone till me how to do this on the pr0 100 because it doesn't have that setting.


8.5x11 is letter size. In the print module of Lr, go to page setup and select it. Any other program will have a similar drop down box, always including letter.

Print Studio Plus is also a good option.
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Feb 27, 2019 08:15:14   #
I like to think about the number of photons hitting my image sensor.

Changing the ISO doesn't change the number of photons (but do any cameras change the sensor integration time at high ISO?), but using a slower shutter and/or a smaller aperture do.

Some noise comes from the amplifiers in your camera - cameras will vary as to this noise level. Noise also comes from physics - stochastic noise that originates in thermal noise in your sensor. You can do very little about this noise (equal to the square root of the number of photons), other than increase the number of photons or reduce the temperature of the camera (this is why large telescope cameras are cooled with liquid nitrogen and similar).

Hope this helps the discussion.
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Feb 24, 2019 10:00:36   #
ialvarez50 wrote:
Hello guys,

I have several hard drives connected to my computer, one of them is a Seagate Expansion drive, basically an external drive. Yesterday the drive stop being recognized by my computer, I am concerned because I have about 120,000 photos in it. I change the USB 3 cable 3 times now and no, its not connecting. Any recommendation to recover all my photos?

Thank you in advance.


If you have a desktop computer with an open HDD location (basically the power and data cables), you could install it and see if the OS can read it. If the Seagate interface was at fault, you'll get all your photos back and have a drive that operates much faster. If you have a laptop, you can get an inexpensive SATA to USB adapter that will let you do the same on any system.

There are also many software systems to recover data. Since getting it done professionally usually costs a huge amount (typically $1000's if they have to manually find files), this is worth trying first before going to a pro. I had a dead laptop with 2 drives in a RAID 0 and ReClaimMe File Recovery got all my files back with one drive installed in the system and the other on an adapter (Sabrent - make sure you get the right adapter for your drive size - 3.5" drives need external power, 2.5" drives get power through the adapter).

Good luck.

After this, you should make sure you have at least one backup method (I use one local external RAID5 array and a cloud service).
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Feb 24, 2019 09:50:19   #
G. Crook wrote:
Question. How do you insure your camera gear and computers? As a rider on your homeowners policy or as an entirely separate policy? How do you identify your individual items. With photographs and serial numbers or.....? Thanks in advance.


I have my homeowners with Erie and all my camera equipment is separately listed and insured for all risks (no deductible) for 1% per year. Covers loss, theft, accidental damage, etc.
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Jan 24, 2019 09:27:11   #
dhklein1 wrote:
Just sent my D850 to Nikon in Melville for warranty repair to fix a sticking shutter. Camera is ten months old and never abused in any way. Called today as per fed ex tracking, body was received yesterday. Wanted to learn when it will returned. I was informed that they were just logging in receipts arriving one week ago. They further said repair would take after log in, 7-10 business days (assuming parts are available) and that shipping would take 5-10 business days. I complained but to no avail. Only received an apology. This time frame in total means that I will be without the D850 body for a month or more. Seems like a real staffing or quality problem or both. Really not acceptable. Absent ownership of much Nikon glass, I would seriously be looking at Cannon or Sony. Beware. Welcome advice from anybody on how to expedite my repair. Thank you.
Just sent my D850 to Nikon in Melville for warrant... (show quote)


If you have a Canon and sign up for CPS Silver (free if you have a body and lens), they guarantee 3-5 business day turnaround. I pay for Platinum and get free camera and lens cleaning, next business day turnaround, a loaner if they can't fix in 1 day, free shipping both ways (normally 2nd day), 30% repair discount and evaluation loans. For this you have to pay and qualify (typically 2 bodies and 3-4 lenses), but the service is great.
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Jan 19, 2019 13:51:49   #
srt101fan wrote:
I don't think this is quite correct, but I hope others will explain why not...😕


ISO is similar to film speed, but not quite the same.

When you change the ISO setting on your camera, you are changing "the sensitivity" of the sensor. Basically when you are at a low ISO (e.g. 100), you will have more photons (basic units of light) per pixel and therefore a low noise image. Go to a high ISO (e.g. 6400) and you have fewer photons per pixel and a noisier image. I think of ISO as the time the sensor collects photons (which are converted into electrical charge); it's not the same as the shutter speed but obviously you are only collecting photons for the time the shutter is open (or less if you go to high ISO).

The reason why long sensor integration times give lower noise is that most, but not all, of the noise in a CMOS sensor is thermal (shot) noise and that noise is equal to the square root of the number of photons. So if you double the number of photons, you improve the S/N ratio by 41% and so on.

Is everyone suitably confused yet?
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Jan 16, 2019 18:35:20   #
Right now there is almost no coverage, just in a few test markets. You should wait at least 6-12 months before even considering getting a 5G handset and service and should check your carrier's coverage for 5G (and cost!)
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Jan 16, 2019 18:33:45   #
Tom DePuy wrote:
for this Cardinal.


Now this is what I call dinner time …… (sorry, couldn't resist, but I actually have much gorier pictures that I have restraining myself from posting)


(Download)
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Jan 7, 2019 11:05:13   #
loren sanders wrote:
Hello everyone and Happy New Year!

My wife pulled the trigger, and for Christmas she got me my first actual DSLR, it's a Canon Rebel T6, that I got with a nice little pile of accessories.

I'm leaving to go to China in a whopping 8 days, so have very little time to get up to speed with it; so I plan to take only one lens and plenty of battery power on the trip (she also gave me a hi-speed 64GB SD card!), and will likely be using mostly automatic settings the majority of the time (I'll have little time to do more than point and shoot while I'm there).

Here's the thing,...I would REALLY like a different eyecup for it, one that is like the old ones I remember back in my school days 30+ years ago, where it is an actual CUP shape that basically covers my eye. The one I have from the factory (and the few I've manages to look up so far) is apparently shaped for ease of use with glasses (which I do wear, but don't NEED to to snap pictures), though I don't seem to gain anything from it.

Now, that may just be me, or just that it has been since forever, or that I just need to adjust to modern eyepieces using my glasses...I don't know, but it seems to me even if I bring it up to touching my glasses, I (1) don't get as much of a full view as I ought to, and (2) I definitely have light bleed-in from the sides.

SO.... I'd really like to find one that is more old-school cup-shaped to try out and see if I am more comfortable (as I hope to be) with one like that.

Does anyone here know where I could find such an animal today, and that would properly attach to my Rebel T6? If so, what do you think (or know) that it would cost me?

Thanks a heap for all your info/advice folks!
Hello everyone and Happy New Year! br br My wife ... (show quote)


For most of their SLRs, Canon make 2 eyecups - one for glasses and one for not. However I don't see any on the Canon website. Another option is B+H or Adorama - select your camera and hit Accessories to see what they have. Someone is bound to have exactly what you want!
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Jan 1, 2019 09:40:53   #
Scruples wrote:
Dear Friends: I have a Canon 5D MII. I misplaced the user manual. I have the
WFT-E4A. I misplaced the user manual. The camera and WFT are in good condition. Does anyone have these manuals?


https://www.usa.canon.com/internet/portal/us/home/support/details/cameras/support-dslr/eos-5d-mark-ii/eos-5d-mark-ii
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Jan 1, 2019 09:37:51   #
DebAnn wrote:
I am so lucky to have been gifted with a trip to Africa and a safari in 2019. For those who have been there, could you please advise on the following.

I have a full frame Canon 6D Mk II and a 70D crop sensor. For the full frame, my longest lens tops out at 105mm. For the crop, I have one that tops out at 250mm. Given that the 250mm on a crop is actually at lot higher than that, would you take the crop over the full frame? Or, would you save up to buy a new lens for the full frame that goes to around 400mm? Bear in mind that I can't hand hold steady anything that's too heavy.
I am so lucky to have been gifted with a trip to A... (show quote)


From my 2 safaris, I would say you should have at least 400mm. The best lens for your Canon is probably the 100-400 L series (preferably with a 1.4X Canon Extender) or the 150-600 Sigma. I prefer L Series myself. The good news is that both your bodies will autofocus to f/8, although the focusing will probably be slower.

Since you will be in a vehicle almost all the time, I strongly suggest some sort of sandbag. I use the Silver Pod but there are lots of other perfectly good ones out there. You can minimize travel weight by filling once you arrive (with sand or rice or similar; I prefer to keep the small plastic beads it came with in the bag as they don't make a mess or go rotten if wet!)

Remember that most of your pictures will be taken at dawn and dusk, so practice your low light techniques. The full frame body will be better in most of these cases, unless you need the extra reach of the crop body (thought the higher pixel count in the 6D2 means you could crop and have about the same image as the 7D). I suggest the 6D2 for almost everything, maybe keep the 7D around with a standard or wide angle lens fitted.

You will probably take a LOT of pictures. Make sure you have sufficient memory cards (I suggest sufficient for at least 5,000 pictures) and batteries (charging may not be particularly easy out in the bush, unless you are staying in a permanent camp that has power)
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Dec 30, 2018 10:26:58   #
hj wrote:
I use several bare external SATA drives in a dock for storage and have been wanting to try a Solid State Drive for photo storage. Can an SSD be used in the typical external dock?


I suggest you look at the specifications for your dock as you may well not get the full speed benefit of SSDs in your dock.

I use a staggered approach to storage.

The folder I'm currently working on is on an internal 1TB M.2 drive. The current year (or so) of photos are on a 2TB internal SSD. Older photos are on an external 12TB 4 bay RAID5 array. Backup to the cloud as well. Internal backup to the RAID array every night as well.
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