Wow, how can we make a simple workflow complicated! Why are 2 card slots better than an extra card - when it comes time to switch because you filled the primary card for the first time? Why is it so hard to treat the card as read-only when it comes to Lightroom or the PC OS. Edit, erase, reformat all you want — FROM THE CAMERA. Simple. What am I missing here?!
TriX wrote:
Do you mean Mb/s megaBITs/sec or MB/s MegaBYTES/sec? It matters - the difference is 8x. One might be very slow, while the other might be reasonable.
Pet peeve of mine, having to guess what some folks mean, this seems to be a pretty common sloppy use of units abbreviations (incl caps and lower case prefixes also) nowadays: mb, mB, Mb, MB, gb, GB. Btw, no such thing as a milli bit😄
Chappy1101 wrote:
I would modify that a bit, but it’s likely what you meant. For me the Subject is the WHY of the photo.
Oh and one more comment on parts of this string. Photoshop/Camera Raw and Lightroom impressive new tools for Select Subject etc have nothing to do with composition and the topic here!
mostsports wrote:
The Subject is the photo.
I would modify that a bit, but it’s likely what you meant. For me the Subject is the WHY of the photo.
charles brown wrote:
Was browsing YouTube the other day when I ran across a video by Scott Kelby and friend entitled "Why Shooting in Manual Mode is Outdated....". Has anyone else seen the video and, if so, what do you think of his point of view? Not sure I completely buy into everything he says, but he does raise some interesting thoughts.
Just watched the video, and I did not hear the same dogmatic message that the title suggests. Kelby and his co host covered the obvious examples where full manual is best/required. But the point that P or one of the other priority modes may be a best choice for most situations where conditions change quickly (bouncing boat, people walking through varying lighting conditions and other examples were noted). Playing “devils advocate” here, this is not a bad piece of advice for many photographers. Certainly Manual is NOT outdated and very useful with Auto ISO set.
MrBob wrote:
Not to hijack or get off topic but do any folks here make their own frames from barn wood etc... and cut their own mats ?
This winter I started cutting my own matts from 32”x40” blanks (using Logan basic cutter and various videos online). It allows me to buy standard inexpensive framing and print to non-standard sizes with appropriate customized matting. Results including double matts are beautiful, and some day I may even pay for the cutter with the minor savings on using precut matts and/or custom framing.
bsprague wrote:
I may not know what I'm talking about. What I think happens is that a Save or Save As in Photoshop, or any other editor, causes a JPEG file to be analyzed for compression. So, in theory, there should be some "compression loss". However, in practice, I've never seen visually detectable quality loss through several Saves.
For me and my procedures, it doesn't matter because I use a Lightroom Classic workflow where the original file is left alone. I sometimes force compression in the Export process to reduce file size.
I may not know what I'm talking about. What I thi... (
show quote)
Well, just out of curiosity, I ran some experiments: 4 steps.
1. Started with a Raw file (Z6 with no edits) showing file size of 30.73MB - both in Windows and LRC Metadata.
2. Exported to jpg with no changes, and at quality of 100%. File size reduced to 13.86MB.
3. Did “Save as" (name change only) from Windows Photo Viewer - resulting in no file size change.
4. Then from LRC, did export from jpg to new jpg with changed file name (closest process in LRC to a “Save as”). File size then increase from 13.86MB to 13.97MB according to LRC metadata (confirmed this file size in Windows).
PUZZLING: the second save in LRC on the jpg not only did not show additional compression (implying additional loss), it showed a larger file size - implying additional data. Again no edits were applied outside of file name change. Ideas?
Architect1776 wrote:
There is no aperture lever or feeler on it.
Just an empty tube with electronic connections (The $100 Canon on has this).
If it had the aperture lever for auto adjusting the aperture as DSLRs do or a feeler for AI lenses I could see the price justification.
So again what justifies the $250 pricetag.
It’s simply effective Marketing. If there was an equivalent alternative to using our older F Lenses on the newer Z Cameras, then the competitive price would be different. The willingness of the market to pay $250 for the basic functionality from a single source is what sets (supports) the pricing. Same reason the newest, fastest memory cards are expensive: no or limited alternatives, not cost of silicon or R&D.
bsprague wrote:
However, theory and reality don't always match.
The theory is that each time you open a JPEG and then "Save" or "Save As" the JPEG codec does it's work and looks for extra data to shed. Apparently that used to be potentially severe.
JPEG standards have improved and those "saves" don't do much damage.
Make a copy of a favorite JPEG and see how many times you can save it before you see noticeable damage.
If one changes the name or location on disk of a jpg file via the operating system (Windows or Mac) the file size does not change and I do not believe any further compression or loss occurs. Are you saying that doing a Save as (presumably within some editing capable program), without having changed anything on the file except name and possibly location on disk, that the file content (loss and/or compression) is then affected?
kybob wrote:
I do a photo book for each trip out of the 14,000 it got culled down to 780 photos which is split into 2 volumes for that trip. The very best ones I might print and then change out photos in various frames in my house and at the office (my employees seem …
Took a great Alaska trip last August. Edited out the clear bad shots each night, took one extra card (2 cameras and 2 iPhones). Ended up with 800 “keepers” to cull out at home, and printed 9 paper and 1 metal pano — and a viewable gallery of maybe 50. You have to be tough on your work.
Mark Sturtevant wrote:
I don't understand why stacking is involved in this at all. To remove unwanted objects in a picture, why not simply use the cloning and healing brush tools in PS (or similar program like Gimp)? I do that several times a week. This approach is where you clone in pixels from a nearby area over the object with ….
You and some others are missing the OP’s objective. He wants to remove moving objects from a picture where the subject is stationary. Think of the wedding shot of the couple in the middle of a busy street, but you see no cars. An earlier response mentions a stack with Median Blending. I’ve seen it work, though I haven’t personally used it lately.
Joe 88 wrote:
I have had it for 11 years. I sell a lot, best web site on the web. Try it for a year and see, they will help you get started.
Been with SM several years now (for personal use). Agree with all of the above, including those who found it non-intuitive at first. Upside is a great look and very responsive and skilled help folks (called Smugmug Hero’s) who quickly bail you out when you need them.
CaptainPhoto wrote:
Is it possible you are using the wrong lens. I have an Olympus MK III and it does in camera focus stacking. But it has to be with certain Olympus lenses. Never with any of my Panasonic lenses. Just a thought.
I'm not familiar with Nikon equipment.
I’ve done sucussful focus stacking with the same Z 24-200mm and Z6. I’d expect Z7ii to work the same.