You've solved the immediate problem, I see.

Since you just got that flash, it might be helpful to you to have some fairly "basic" info about the Canon Speedlite system.

First is that the flash can serve either as FILL or as FULL flash and it's very easy to switch.

To start, set the FLASH to ETTL mode. This uses through-the-lens metering by the camera to control the flash output. I recommend practicing with this and learn to use it, though you also can use the flash in fully manual mode if you wish.

For FILL flash, simply set the CAMERA to any of the auto exposure modes: Av, Tv or P (maybe M with Auto ISO too, though I've never tried it). When you do this, the camera will still base its auto exposure on ambient light conditions and the flash output will automatically be reduced by about 1.66 stops. This is useful for making natural looking images where the flash simply augments ambient light. It can be particularly useful midday when the sun is out and making for deep shadows. The flash helps "open up" the shadows.

For FULL flash, set the CAMERA to fully manual mode: M (without Auto ISO). Now the camera will ignore ambient light conditions and fire at "full power", as determined by the camera metering. This is a form of auto exposure, even though the camera is set to M. As you can see, to control the flash via the camera's menu, this is the mode you need to be using. (I'm pretty sure it isn't req'd to the camera's menu to set the flash... that the same settings can be made directly on the flash itself.) Usually this mode is used in low light conditions or when you want to sublimate ambient light to make backgrounds go darker, emphasizing the closer subject with the flash. Ambient light can still be part of the mix, but is reduced compared to flash. This looks less "natural", but can be a really nice effect none-the-less.

In both modes, when the flash is set to ETTL, to measure the amount of light needed for a "correct" exposure there is a low-powered "pre-flash" that's fired first. It's something like 1/64 power and is what the camera's meter measures in order to determine how much power to use for the "real" flash that immediately follows. Normally you don't even notice this is happening, since the two flash firings take place so quickly one after the other. However, if you ever use an optical trigger to fire off-camera flash, those can be tripped to early by the pre-flash and leave you wondering what went wrong with your lighting setup.

In either of the above modes you can dial in stronger or weaker flash. This is much like Exposure Compensation on the camera. Flash Exposure Compensation (sometimes "FEC") can be done either in the camera menu or using the controls on the back of the flash itself.

In either of the above modes you also can use a couple specialized flash techniques... High Speed Sync or 2nd Curtain Sync. For all practical purpose, these are opposites (you can't set both at the same time, anyway).

High Speed Sync is just what it sounds like. It allows you to use flash with shutter speeds faster than the camera's flash sync speed (usually 1/200 or 1/250, depending upon model). Just keep in mind that HSS significantly reduces the distance flash can reach. The faster the shutter speed, the shorter the distance. I don't know if the 400EX-series flash have it, but the 500EX series I use have a simple scale showing the distance the flash is able to reach, based upon the camera's settings (this can be set by the user to read out in feet or meters). I've used HSS fairly often in combination with a Flash Extender and telephoto lenses, for fill flash with subjects at a distance, opening up shadows and adding a catchlight to the subject's eyes. You have to be careful doing this or there will be too much eyeshine (with animals) or redeye (with people). One trick to reduce those problems is to put the flash on a bracket away from the lens axis and connect it to the camera via an off-camera shoe cord.

2nd Curtain Sync is normally used with slower shutter speeds and moving subjects. What it does is time the flash to fire just before the 2nd curtain of the shutter closes, at the end of the exposure. The reason for this is the mix of ambient and flash light, when using the normal 1st curtain sync, will cause any "light trails" to appear to be in front of the subject, as if it's going backward. By instead syncing with the 2nd curtain, the light trails appear behind the subject, suggest forward movement in the image. This is because the light trails are ambient light being recorded at the beginning of the exposure, while the 2nd curtain firing of the flash at the end provides the primary illumination.

There are other nuances... such as strobe effects or using various light modifiers on the flash. But, in my opinion, the above are the basic things to experiment with and learn how they work, to be able to handle most situations with the modern EX flashes. (Note: I have no idea how the latest Canon EL-series flashes work. They may be the same or may be different. I get the impression the EL are more fully automated and even simpler to use, but have never used any of them personally.)

I often think the Speedlite system is made to sound complicated and difficult. It's really easier to use than the user manuals and books make it sound. It's way easier... as well as more consistent and reliable... than the flashes from years ago. After you enable ETTL on the flash itself, then you just need to decide whether you want FILL or FULL flash and set the camera accordingly to your choice of AE modes for FILL or to fully M mode for FULL flash. Then you can fine tune the flash's effect as you see fit. Through-the-lens-flash metering has been a real game changer, IMO. I'm still using older model EX flash with optically controlled multi-flash control. Radio control such your flash has is a big improvement that I'll have to convert to some day.

I had the wonderful opportunity last year to do a Photographer Tour of the Upper Canyon in Page Arizona. The advantage of the photographers tour is they hold back the crowd so you can capture your image on a tripod. Protect your gear with rain type gear to protect it from sand dust. With COVID 19 I believe they are closed and have discontinued the photographers tour.

Hope to beable to return again to capture the beauty of nature again at the Upper Canyon.
Comments are always appreciated. Thanks Stan

Wadi Bani Khalid is one of the best-known wadis in Oman. Its stream maintains a constant flow of water throughout the year. Large pools of water and boulders are scattered along the course of the wadi and are fringed with vibrant green date palms and long-stemmed grasses. The main pool is easily reachable and there are further pools upriver into the gorge.

I hope you enjoy this beautiful oasis and rocks combination and look forward to hear your comments or questions.

I recommend viewing the downloads.
.

I started watching this fascinating little bird June 20th. On July 3rd the first of two eggs hatched presenting us with a less than beautiful little critter. The photo of the nest was taken atop an 8' ladder while nest was unattended. From that point on, all captures were taken with a 750mm equivalent lens from a distance of approximately 20', to prevent stress on the new mother and family. I've been trying to document the development of the young bird. As a point of interest, I've always noticed that loud fireworks had drastic effects on dogs and cats, but I never even considered how a bird would react. On the 5th of July this little mother was noticeably anxious and stressed. So much so that I decided not to attempt any photographs that day. Attached are a few samples from the day of the hatching up to yesterday, July 6th.

Hi All another in a different way I have been looking at some images. This big cat is at out local zoo and is in a somewhat unusual cage. It is in a quite heavy steel cable mesh tent on two poles with what can only be described as a counter around it. One visit I had the camera all set and then set a windup mouse on the counter and had it running back and forth with me shooting with frothing mouth and the cat with frighting concentration. I can only say I was pleased. Moral of story is buy a mouse for your pocket. Thanks for looking and please enjoy. RBorud