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Posts for: Silvermeteor
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Apr 7, 2016 09:00:11   #
Psergel wrote:
I can't figure out a solution. If I use three modules I get three TIFFs.


I guess I am the only one that it bothers. Thanks for trying. I am going to research going into NIK from PSE. Maybe I can do it all in one pass. I believe each action creates a new layer in PSE. Maybe I'll only get one file.
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Apr 6, 2016 13:48:24   #
rgrenaderphoto wrote:
I think, at least with Lightroom, it is part of the non destructive editing approach. Each variation of the edited image is stored in the LR database with all versions available for the Photographer to choose.


You are probably correct. My poor old addled mind simply does not handle decisions well anymore. Couple that with a healthy case of paranoia about throwing out the incorrect file, well you know.
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Apr 6, 2016 11:32:13   #
lamiaceae wrote:
? :? :shock: :-( ?


Or not. lol

If I use LR when done I have 4 large tiff files. Each one builds on the last.

I have to go back and delete 3 of them. Just trying to avoid that process.

I'll figure something out. Thanks.
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Apr 6, 2016 08:45:04   #
lamiaceae wrote:
Lr is likely to handle 32-bit files fine. To run Nik via Lightroom you may start Nik by Right Clicking on your open image and then Select Edit In
Nik


I guess I must not be explaining my question clearly. Sorry.

I can start NIK from LR just fine. It is just that after each operation NIK sends back a NEW file. So if I use three of the modules here is what I end up with in the LR Directory.

1> Original LR tiff file
2> After 1st operation - New tiff file with "edit" appended
3> After 2nd operation - New tiff file with "edit" appended
4> After 3rd operation - New tiff file with "edit" appended

The final result is "Original File Name - Edit - Edit - Edit" and now I have four very large files which requires me to delete.

I was wondering if this clutter could be reduced. Maybe it would work better using PSE and having each adjustment become a layer which is not what LR does.

I hope I have explained myself more clearly. Thanks for your help.
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Apr 6, 2016 01:05:50   #
Erik_H wrote:
I find it much better to send the photo to PS and apply the NIK filters there. That way, you can send it back to LR as a tiff, and if you want to go back and add a different filter just sent it back to PS and check "edit original" in the edit in dialog box. If, when you originally send it to PS from LR you duplicate the background layer and convert the copy to a smart filter before you add any NIK filters you can go back and pick up where you left off in any of the NIK filter(s) any time in the future.
I find it much better to send the photo to PS and ... (show quote)


Unfortunately I am limited to LR and PSE. I do not think PSE has smart objects/filters. Even so it might work better using PSE as the host. I'll have to look at that.
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Apr 6, 2016 00:19:08   #
I recently d/l the NIK Software and have been trying it out. I realize that NIK only works with tiff files so when I move out of LR or PSE to a NIK module the host program creates and sends a tiff format file.

When I have completed my editing a new revised tiff file is returned to the host software.

So when I use another module I select the tiff file that was returned to the host program so that I can apply the new changes on top of the last ones.

But when NIK returns the newly revised revision it does not return the first file but creates a second file. As a result, if I use three different modules on one file I end up with the original tiff plus three revised tiffs. Each one builds on the last.

Is there a way to just get NIK to return the original revised file so that I do not end up with so darn many huge tiff files? It is a real PITA to have to go into LR are delete the interim files.
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Apr 4, 2016 14:16:51   #
elwynn wrote:
I'm 88.


That's fantastic. I hope I'm still going at 88 and what a bonus to be able to enjoy photography too. Not only that but many our age failed to grasp the computer and the electronic age.

Good for you. Thanks for posting.
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Apr 4, 2016 14:01:56   #
John_F wrote:
When I am using my Sony QX-10 on my iPhone there is a touch option for focusing. On the phone screen one can touch the spot where one wants the focus. Do regular cameras have such a feature?


I believe that some do but mine does not. Probably would have kept me out of this predicament. lol
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Apr 4, 2016 13:56:16   #
elwynn wrote:
You might try back button focus to lock focus on the truck and then re-compose to your liking.


I am pretty sure that I tilted the tripod to place my center focus point on the truck logo using BBF and AI Focus. Then I resettled the tripod to center the image. I would have released the BBF before I moved the tripod back into position.

I am not sure if this would have caused the camera to refocus at that point.

I really appreciate all of the responses but it is beginning to get too much for me to sort out. Hell to get old. lol

Several things have been mentioned that I will try next time.
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Apr 4, 2016 13:37:21   #
Haydon wrote:
Thanks David.

The OP blames his el cheapo lens not giving distance information.Use human judgement for simple distances. I'm sorry, it's not your equipment it's a failure to understand the implementation of hyperfocal focusing, and setting an autofocus point to the correct distance for near focus and using a DOF application to find your point of infinity.

I gave you what you needed. F11, 30 mm on a Canon crop camera equals focusing approximately 20 feet giving you sharp focus between 10 feet and infinity.
Thanks David. br br The OP blames his el cheapo l... (show quote)


No need to get testy. I am not blaming anything on the equipment. I have offered it as a possibility along with my own personal frailties and short comings. The purpose pf my post is to consider all options. Unfortunately, I cannot go back and reshoot so I am trying to visit all possible solutions for the next time. They have another station with four more engines. lol
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Apr 4, 2016 13:32:38   #
Bloke wrote:
It's broad daylight, why are you messing with a tripod? That shot could easily have been taken handheld, then you could focus through the viewfinder. Seems that was your mistake...


True enough. Just the same, as mentioned on an earlier response, I wanted exactly the same image with each engine. I was probably too picky about it but that was my thought.
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Apr 4, 2016 13:20:26   #
alfeng wrote:
BTW. Are you certain that the lens which you have is capable of focusing as sharply as you want?





My guess is that this is part of the problem. I would also guess that a 50mm prime at almost any cost point will focus more sharply that the kit zoom.
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Apr 4, 2016 12:05:25   #
amfoto1 wrote:
One solution would be to use One Shot instead, pre-focus on the truck, then recompose while continuing to maintain half-press on the the shutter release... and finally take the shot.

Another would have been to use AI Servo with back button focus (BBF), pre-focus on the truck, release the button and then recompose... and finally take the shot.

Hope this helps!


OK. I use BBF and AI Servo.

Trying to understand exactly what you are saying.

I did pre focus with the center focus point and then readjust the scene to suit me.

With BBF and AI Servo I thought that the focus point would remain on the logo on the door where I aimed it. Is this wrong?

Thanks for your help. I thought my old 35mm Pentax was complicated bet these new DSLRs have so darn many choices. Good when your young, fast and agile. Not so much when you are a senior citizen with failing eyesight and slower thought processes. LOL
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Apr 4, 2016 10:37:07   #
davidrb wrote:
Hayden gave you the answer to your "Problem" way back on page 3 of this thread. You have stumbled on something known as "hyper focal focusing". If you were to look this term up you might learn why your shot turned out as it did. You might also learn how easy this concept will make taking shots such as your fire engine. Hoods have nothing to do with what happened to you, but your thinking shows great promise. A hood is designed and used to keep sunlight out of the lens barrel. This prevents "flaring", and you have no "flaring" in your shot.
Hayden gave you the answer to your "Problem&q... (show quote)


When speaking of a "hood" I meant a hood that covers the viewing screen at the back of the camera which is often overwhelmed by bright sunlight making it nearly useless. I believe you may be thinking about a lens hood which I had.

Hyperfocal may be the solution but unfortunately my lens is an el cheapo kit lens zoom which does not have range information on the focusing ring.

Thanks for your input. There is a lot of good info here.
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Apr 4, 2016 09:57:23   #
GENorkus wrote:
Maybe it's just me or that I'm on a cellphone but it looks like parts of the firetruck are in better focus than the building? (Note the hose reel.)

It looks more like a problem with the lens to me or too high an aperture setting for the type of sensor in the camera.

What settings, camera, lens are being used?


I think I posted this earlier. Canon T3i, EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 kit lens.

Settings: 30mm, f/11, 1/160/sec.
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