How did you supper impose the smaller picture with the larger? I have applications for this technique. len glanzer 605 729 2077

Other than dust or being very close to action where things can fly what is the main purpose? ken 605 729 2077

My address is 43261 hwy 42, Bridgewater, SD 57319 605 729 2077 ken glanzer You can send the cheapest way

I'd lioke to have it. Mine was stolen ken glanzer 605 729 2077 kenglanzer@goldenwest.net

alf85: Did you see my request for what lens you used? That's the main factor.

Alf85: Those are the sharpest pheasant shots I've ever seen, What is the camera shutter speed, was a tripod used & the lense & F-stop? You caught one with a "Blink of the eye." Their eyes were closed.

As far as UV filters affect, it can be seen photographing a newspaper of different size small print & blowing up both images with & without it 20x in the computer side by side. Or I found another method. Rifle scopes over 12x have a parallax setting to insure the cross hairs are sharp & don't move when you move your eye from side to side. I found that adding a filter on the front lens of any rifle (or spotting scope) will require a different parallax or focus setting. Color filters require the most re-adjustment. I haven't found the perfect UV filter yet but some are very close. I would think a UV filter could be made that compensates even for itself. Even if it could re-focus wise there would still be a very very small loss of sharpness as the rays went through more glass. The focusing mechanism even adjusted for the larger affect of color filters. Normal depth of field will correct most filters affect sufficiently. But a lens wide open may likely need refocusing. If it doesn't you have a very good filter. I prefer cleaning filters than lenses & filters have saved me from nicks on a lens three times since 1936. I've never had to replace a lens due to front lens damage in all that time that had a filter of any kind. I use the polarizer the most. Open threads collect duet & I've had filters jam.
I've picked up lens nicks unknowingly without filters & it's a very sickening feeling financially & emotionally most likely to prevent a sale of it even though its effect is unseen. Everyone likes what I call a Virgin lens. In industrial areas where there is bad air or dust, a filter won't protect you from air that is sucked in a lens with expanding lenses. Moving elements internally in a lens that refocus it won't change much air. I've never had to replace a lens for any reason optically or mechanically--filters yes. A collapsible monopod is very useful at times taking pictures & walking. A rifle type trigger finger on a camera is just as important. I'd like a feature where the camera doesn't go off until 1 second after the contact is made to snap it when hand held. Or better yet a "Mental Trigger." Wow! Digital cameras ability to change exposure settings very quickly solves a lot of steadiness problems. I loved the Hasselblads ability to change backs. I had 8 film holders but keep records of each shot as it may take awhile to use all the film before development. I'd like to see instant transfer from camera to computer & printer radio wise with the push of a button.
I hear the N850 has no built in flash. How about a real small fixed flash that attaches for shadow fill in up to 10'. shadows on the face & from hat brims ruins a lot of pictures as the face is light colored.

What filters did you use & which IR conversion. I've been trying to find out myself for some time. I rented a converted camera from Barrow Lens twice & they couldn't tell me how to get the black skys nor could I get them regardless what I tried. I have a specific application for the black skys. I'd like to get black skys with color pictures also if I could. Could you call me at 605 729 2077? Ken glanzer

Get a mono-pod to carry & a tripod for home use but still learn to "squeeze the shutter button" & you will be able to get a good shot with 1/100 or less if ever needed. Too slow a shutter speed will ruin every shot. Bracket your shots (set the camera to do it) then see if the light meter was fooled, see what object or objects were too dark or too light in area that caused an over or under exposure. Even with A.Adams zone system & light meter techniques he still bracketed-I saw his negs. It cost more to bracket with film but it assured you got a good neg & didn't have to reshoot it later that may not be possible. Bracketing doesn't cost you with a digital camera like it did with film but assured proper exposure. The big saving was time as you could check exposure immediately not having to develop the film to see what you got. Bracketing requires more film changes wasting time or a lost shot. Bracketing with digital requires only a few seconds. To see if your shutter speeds were high enough, point of focus was right on & proper depth of field, blow it up in the computer. Sometimes an over or under exposure .5-1 stop may improve the shot. I often even compare a light meter reading with what the camera suggests. If you use the Spot meter reading on people, do it on their face (same light zone) each time for consistency. Experiment with what your camera light meter area is set at. Exposure techniques have really improved but there will still be an occasional wrong exposure. Strive for 100% right on--it can be evasive. Always use a lens hood. Without it a lens cap is a must to use with time delay. I like the rubber collapsible ones. Check your lenses before shooting if they are clean. Make sure your camera is level on horizon or buildings. Revisit older shots from time to time in the computer. Put different types of shots in different files. It all will soon start of come together.

Drive By Shooter: Those were great shots. Will the 950nm filter give the IR shots that will produce Black skies? I have an application for shots with black skies & I can't find out from anybody about this. Please call ken at 605 729 2077

Lenses are all pretty good now days but many push the expose button too hard or even lightly jerk it not realizing it & get less sharp pictures with even very sharp lenses. Get a monopod as a walking stick but with a 1/4" threaded screw on top to screw in the camera. In dim light pictures you many be short of ISO & use a large aperture off the sweet spot aperture. With a monopod you can still often use F 5.6-8 for better depth of field & get a sharp picture. Try multiple comparative pictures with the monopod & hand held & you begin to see it's beneficial effect in the computer when you blow them up.

Take a photography class. You can ask the instructor questions that books can't answer, They can't talk. Fortunately you can do a lot of fast experimenting with a digital camera you can't do with with a film camera as it would be too expensive & time consuming. You get instant free answers with a digital camera. There is an advertisement inserted here in Ugly Hedgehog that would be very useful. There will be a lifetime training period.

Barrow some lenses & make comparative shots on a tripod with delayed shutter release of a newspaper at say 25'. Many of the hair shots are multiple hairs. Look for individual hairs & compare at different F-Stops.

With any filter check where it focuses. It may be slightly different but still in focus. In rifle scopes with a variable parallax adjustment (usually starting at 10X power & above), any piece of glass on the lens will require a parallax re-adjustment. There is no perfect glass.

flashbang: As I said I've had Focus Shift at F16 on 4x5 & 8x10 lenses. Your lenses may not have shifted @F16. On some lenses it goes forward & sometimes backward. Since it is seldom reported it's seldom caught or even looked for. I didn't mention I also had it with a 50mm Nikon lens but only @F8. It retained the focus point on all the other F stops. I noticed this when I was running lens resolution tests on each F-Stop. I checked the focus setting at each F stop & had to refocus @F8. At all other F Stops it didn't change. This was the first time I did that. I was testing a friends lens & he saw the shift also. This really shook him up as he remembered some of his F8 pictures weren't in focus where he remembered he focused at! I'm going to try it with my Hasselblad lenses next. My Leica Collapsible F2 lens was in focus at each F Stop. It had the maximum resolution of any 35mm lens I ever tested @F4 using Kodak High Contrast Copy Film of 240 lines/mm. They used a Slide Rule to design it. The WWII German Binoculars I have were always better than the American Binoculars also. Sharper, wider field of view & longer eye relief!
The Leica F2 lens only resolved 100 lines/mm (most lenses topped out at 100 lines/mm) with Panatomic film with the 25 ASA. It resolved 400 lines/mm with Kodak's 649 Spectroscopic Film. The film was rated to resolve 1000 lines/mm. It actually made good looking pictures using the Tech Pan Type Developer. I think it would have made Billboard Pictures. I couldn't see any grain in the negs with my microscope. It was a bit slow of film speed. I took a 25 ASA light meter reading & increased the exposure 10 times. If I figured it right that's about a .02 +/- ASA. It's not exactly hand held.
I used this camera lens in my Leica Focolmat Enlarger also which I still have. They even had an adaptor for it. It made very sharp enlargements across the picture when I used about 60% of the neg. When I used the full width neg I had to use F8. It's one of the best enlargers ever made. It had a stay in focus design also once set. Lenses have always been far better than the film normally used. I had box seats at Safeco Field in Seattle & I took a shot with a medium priced 70-300mm lens across the field about 350' mounted on my D2X & was amazed at the 8x10 picture resolution with that lens. I'd like to try it with the N850 now.
There is a trick where you can check resolution just using a 10X Hasting magnifier held in the image area on any lens or binocular for quick comparisons. You can put a magnifying glass on your focus window also for precise focusing. It's handier if you use a mount of some kind to hold it there or in the lens image.
I used the Standard Air Force Resolution Chart at a "certain distance" about 3' or so & had 3-3"x3" charts set right behind each 1", one set in the center, at the 4 corners, top & bottom middle & the sides middle. Focusing on the center chart I could check if the focus field moved in or out on the edges also on every F Stop also. I used a microscope to quickly view the negs for the resolution values. I had a frame I pulled the negs through to keep the film centered & the same distance away from the microscope lens. It was always in focus & quick to use. When I used High Contrast Copy film I had to move the chart back at 2 or 3 times the distance as I remember. The chart only went to 100 lines/mm. You can use a newspaper with different size print for comparison checks at any distance for lenses or binoculars.