Jim 100 wrote:
I have an Epson photo printer. I have seen remanufactured ink cartridges at a great price at Clicklinks.com. Has anyone had any dealings with them or used remanufactured cartridges?
I highly recommend using the manuf ink(epson). I can only speak for HP. But there is a specific formula, viscosity etc that works well when using the right ink. You can run into all sorts of problems if using a third party ink. HP will void any warranty if other inks are used.
Gramps wrote:
Been using Canon Pixma MP610 Printer. Have had no complaints from the first day, better than two years now. Uses two blacks and 3 colors. Have been an LD ink customer through an Epson and, currently, Canon. Recently colors have shifted favoring green. Sat down with Canon Tech and we both have come to the conclussion that the magenta is not competely flowing---see test. Love the printer. Canon would not knock the generic mfg'r however they said the viscosity might be different and a try with Canon ink "may be the cure". That's my next step to get a CLI 8magenta Canon ink. Y'all have any ideas?.....C
Been using Canon Pixma MP610 Printer. Have had no... (
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I can only speak to HP. HP engineering has spent lots of time and effort to formulate the right viscosity, recipe ink etc for there printers. They do not recommend a refill or third party inks. Other inks than HP will also void any warranty.
Stef C wrote:
F 16 - 22
As you can see in the upper left, there are two small spots. I don't believe it's oil as has been reported though, just some dust. I'm going to blow it out and repost at same apertures.
There is some spots in the upper right also.
jsimp3 wrote:
Greetings Everyone,
I am primarily a landscape, macro, and wildlife photographer. I will be traveling to Wisconsin, and I will have my first opportunity next weekend to photograph my sons basketball team, in their first game of the finals. The school may purchase some of the images, and possibly invite me back.
In the past I have had a problem blurry images, even when mounted on a tripod, and individuals are posing for the shoot. In my viewfinder they look fine, but when I download to the computer, the blur in some is obvious, in others I see it when I magnify. I will not get a second opportunity to capture these images
looking for corrective indoor settings.
I figure on setting the shutter speed between 1/250-1/500 to freeze the action. Previously when I have set my shutter speed in this range indoor, my photos are dark
and in some cases a totally black screen. Shooting outdoors, I don't need to up the ISO often
is that what I should play with? I normally keep the camera's set to matrix mode, I would like to shoot hand held, or on a monopod
I imagine with my inexperience, the tripod might be a little awkward.
I plan on taking both my D800, and D600. Lenses that I thought to take are the Nikon 70-200mm F2.8, Nikon 28-300 F2.8, Sigma 85mm F1.4. I plan to get down on the floor, so I am not sure how useful it would it would be in this venue, but I have a Tokina 16-35 wide angle.
I would appreciate any advice... this is new territory for me.
Thanks in advance
Greetings Everyone, br br I am primarily a landsc... (
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Sorry, need to add more. Open your lens wide open, set to aperature priority to keep the fstop selected and adjust your ISO to get 1000 or 1200 shutter speed.
jsimp3 wrote:
Greetings Everyone,
I am primarily a landscape, macro, and wildlife photographer. I will be traveling to Wisconsin, and I will have my first opportunity next weekend to photograph my sons basketball team, in their first game of the finals. The school may purchase some of the images, and possibly invite me back.
In the past I have had a problem blurry images, even when mounted on a tripod, and individuals are posing for the shoot. In my viewfinder they look fine, but when I download to the computer, the blur in some is obvious, in others I see it when I magnify. I will not get a second opportunity to capture these images
looking for corrective indoor settings.
I figure on setting the shutter speed between 1/250-1/500 to freeze the action. Previously when I have set my shutter speed in this range indoor, my photos are dark
and in some cases a totally black screen. Shooting outdoors, I don't need to up the ISO often
is that what I should play with? I normally keep the camera's set to matrix mode, I would like to shoot hand held, or on a monopod
I imagine with my inexperience, the tripod might be a little awkward.
I plan on taking both my D800, and D600. Lenses that I thought to take are the Nikon 70-200mm F2.8, Nikon 28-300 F2.8, Sigma 85mm F1.4. I plan to get down on the floor, so I am not sure how useful it would it would be in this venue, but I have a Tokina 16-35 wide angle.
I would appreciate any advice... this is new territory for me.
Thanks in advance
Greetings Everyone, br br I am primarily a landsc... (
show quote)
Go to DTownTV for an excellent video on sport photos. I would recommend High ISO to get a shutter speed of no less than 1000 or 1200. Fill the frame and get in as close as possible, might have to use a 1.4 or 2.0 extender. A 500mm or 600mm range is beautiful. Also take a look at a sports magazine, they are very close. You will get possibly a little grain but that comes with the territory. Hope this helps.
Stef C wrote:
At X-mas i'm upgrading to the D600 from the current D7000. My D7000 has 13,000 clicks, and although I don't want to give it up, I think that I should sell it to finance some of the D600.
I really would like to keep a backup camera, however, and an offer was just proposed to me;
For just my D7000, I was offered a D40, with a 55-200mm VR Lens + $500 Cash.
I'm thinking that this is a pretty good deal, and comes out to about $700-$750 in value, plus i would still have that backup body with D600.
Thoughts?
At X-mas i'm upgrading to the D600 from the curren... (
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This is my thoughts. A d40 for a backup, I get it. I often take by backup with me with a wide angle lens and my primary with a super tele, and carry both. Saves me time all the way around. In this scenario you will get great photos with both if you keep the d7000. If you just have a D40 how often are you going to use it (only as a backup?). Get good use and great photos out of two bodies. I wouldn't carry a D40 as my second. I often don't even take the lens' off.
Sorry, everyone if I was wrong. Your manual may not be of much help-I do not know. All the Nikon manuals have been pretty good.
One other thing is with my large hands, I find that it is much more comfortable with the grip. Also, on some cameras it will make it faster to cycle and you get more shots per charge. I would not leave mine at home, always on.
Good Luck with your camera. What I suggest, and sometimes overlooked, is take your Owners Manual, camera in hand and practice. No matter how many cameras I have owned, soon after purchase I sit down and go through the manual with camera and each page, to get to know the camera. A lot of info is in there and some of the terminology is right in the manual pages. Then after awhile I forgot something and return to the manual. Every camera has its functions. And don't forget other forums and printed books. Soon a lot of the terminology will be very familiar and how to use it.
I agree Richard, I have noticed also that if I spend more time and take many more photos, the person starts to get in the grove and relax, thats when the action starts.
Let me explain further. I always take the time to setup compose, focus etc. I try to get the best photo the first time. I will take hundreds of photos cause, I have early morn light cast on a flower, take some, light changes, take more, shadow changes and color, take more. Use fill flash, and or off camera flssh, take more. Change angle, do all over again. Light peaks through clouds, take more. All the while taking different DOF. An insect lands on flower, take more. A spider appears, set up take more. Starts to rain, drops on flower and spider, take more. See what I mean, the shot count goes up. Some earlier shots may be good but as the session continues I get more great shots. Enough said.
I've found a basic rule. Shoot on the way in and shoot on the way out. Also, means to shoot going forward and backward. I too take many shots, more since digital. I shoot from every angle, close and further away. Go all the way around if you can and can take up to 1000 shots, say of a flower. You'll find that a few will be outstanding, for light, angle exposure etc. Lots of people see a flower, take a few and leave. As you take more and all around subject you will get better at seing the subject.
I think that you can solve your duplicate issue. Name your file with a code of your choosing to signify that the main file name will be the same but your code will tell you where your file is stored or what state it is in. Say name your file partnoO.jpg (for original) and your other file partnoD (for duplicate) your choice how you distingwish the file differences. The file would be the same except for the "O" or "D". Hope this helps. In my DB system I ran into somewhat the same dup issue. Used this for exact slide dups, works well.
Festina Lente wrote:
K2KImages wrote:
Festina Lente wrote:
waterbug49307 wrote:
Dagnabit anyway. And may I ask what would the benefit be of tiff?
For most of us, there is no advantage. RAW is the native format from the camera containing everything the camera was able to capture. When you edit the RAW file you save the edits as a JPEG for most uses. The RAW file should always remain untouched.
A TIFF file is a format that is not compressed, and as such can be edited over and over without losing information through multiple compressions. A JPEG is compressed each time you save it, and after many edits and saves it loses some noticeable quality.
Some houses / clients require a TIFF file format when making a submittal, but that is the exception for most of us. Since a TIFF is such a large file size, contains less information than a RAW file, and when printed is indistinguishable from a newly created JPEG, there is little reason to create or save files in the TIFF format.
That is not to say there are no advantages to TIFF. The most notable being it is a non-lossy file format that is universal (non-proprietary) and is not dependent on a camera or software vendor's support and periodic changes. Some folks worry about that. But most software vendors (notably Adobe's products) continually update and support all major camera RAW file formats.
Some houses / clients require a TIFF file format when making a submittal, but that is the exception for most of us. Since a TIFF is such a large file size, and it contains less information than a RAW file, and when printed is indistinguishable from a newly RAW to JPEG edit, there is little reason to create or save files in the TIFF format.
That is not to say there are advantages to TIFF. The most notable being it is a non-lossy file format that is universal (non-propritary) and is not dependent on a camera or software vendor's support and periodic changes.
quote=waterbug49307 Dagnabit anyway. And may I as... (
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For the most part you are correct. However, when scanning slides and saving, most times the choices are jpg, or tiff etc., not raw. So a tiff is better to save in and can be used as your original file. It would be a pain to rescan your original slide everytime you want to get a clean copy and edit.
quote=Festina Lente quote=waterbug49307 Dagnabit... (
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Technically that is correct. Thanks for the additional information.
A finer point to note: Unless 35mm slides were taken with a high quality camera and lens, the image quality is typically too poor to benefit from saving the file as a TIFF (regardless of how high you set the scanner resolution). A large JPEG with 600dpi is usually more than enough for most home slides. Just save any edits as a new file. (But digital storage real estate is so cheap, so no harm in saving them as TIFFs.)
quote=K2KImages quote=Festina Lente quote=water... (
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Your right. Thanks. With my puni brain it keeps me straight to keep the Raw, and Tiffs as my images that I will not alter. Saving in jpg will lose some data upfront. So that's why I use the mentioned formats.