The main problem with a drop-in filter is getting it out fast enough for totality. There is a chance depending on where the aperture iris is for possible damage to it and depending on how strong the light is concentrated on the filter itself (overheating, cracking), but they usually are located far enough away from the most concentrated light and tend to be sturdy enough. But there is a chance for damage depending on their locations in the lens. Obviously, killing the light levels before any of the lens elements start concentrating the light is the best way to go.

Do not get discouraged. I have traveled to three eclipses. One was A- rated, B+ rated, and one total clouded out one minute before totality. And the clouded out one was over 6 minutes long and from other unclouded places showed prominences. C'est la vie. Just go for the next one.

This appears to be a focus problem as some of the others have mentioned. Many cameras cannot autofocus on the sun, moon, and stars without having firmware that handles it. The best way to take solar exposures is to practice before an eclipse by taking just photos of the sun. This helps to iron out many of the problems that one faces during an eclipse. Although the next US eclipse is the end of an eclipse at the Montana/Canadian border in 2044 and the California to Colorado to Florida one in 2045, there are other ones to go to. Iceland and Spain in 2026. Spain, Morocco, Egypt in 2027. And Australia and New Zealand in 2028. And there are a number of them in the 2030s including ones in Australia, Japan, and New Zealand. Practice on the sun and go to one of these. There are all worthwhile trying for.

You did a great job of getting a difficult shot beautifully! As far as the term flares, flares is correct along with the term prominence. They are interchangeable - but flares is easier to spell, pronounce, and understand.

I would consider taking the 24-120 on the body of most preference and the 70-300 on the other body. Based off of bhapke's info, I suspect you will use the 24-120 about 90% of the time. If you have the room and don't mind the weight, take the 20 also. But I would suspect you will not use it much.

You are in one of the few possible cloud free areas. I wish you all the luck with your shooting. Out of the three I have gone to, two were an A- and a B+. The third one was clouded out one minute before totality. If you get some good chromesphere shots, be sure to put them up. Some of the other things to look for, the shadow coming towards you, the darkening of the horizon, the narrow strip of yellow/orange atmosphere on the horizon, the darkening of the sky such that the stars and planets come out (download a map of where the planets and stars will be), feel the temperature drop (especially at totality), and look for possible sunbands (shadow bands, similar to waves, on the ground). If there are animals, watch their behaviors as totality approaches. Photos to try for are Bailey's Beads (coming and going), diamond ring (coming and going), and bracketed exposures of the chromesphere. And don't forget to just take a moment from everything going on around you and look at the eclipse. Most of us that see one want to see as many more as we can. Eclipses can be addictive. And usually anything short of seeing another total eclipse is just a "ho-hum" partial eclipse. That is why I am going to check NASA's site for where the next ones are. Again, good luck tomorrow.

I will be watching this one on TV. I am just packing camera equipment (smaller camera case; one body and two lenses) and getting ready to go to my granddaughter's wedding. There will be more for me to see. Just none in the USA until 2045. And like you said, after one's first total eclipse, anything short of another total eclipse on the centerline is not that exciting.

Unfortunately, there will be people with damaged eyesight. People think of the sun as an everyday thing that causes sunburn with long enough exposure. Then they try "viewing" the concentrated sunlight of a DSLR telephoto lens. Usually instant burning and blinding of one's eye. There will be an unfortunate number of them tomorrow.

Welders glass is acceptable for visual viewing of the partial phases of the eclipse. Welding produces copious amounts of intensity light and UV rays. I have used welders glass for welding, solar viewing, and solar photography. It is safe as long as you use welders glass that is 16 to 19 stops. 16 stops is too bright and 19 stops is too dark in my opinion. I have used 18 stop welders glass for three eclipses with no problems.

Looks like it did OK. It should be good enough for partial shots. Post some of your chromesphere shots if you take any.

No; it just means you wipeout your camera, not your eyes. Do you remember when you were little and used a magnifier to burn sticks, leaves, and ants? A DSLR is just a bigger and just as dangerous magnifier. It will burn eyes.

The next USA total eclipse is in 2045. But there will be other eclipses before that in other areas of the world. Enjoy this one with just your solar glasses and prep for the 2045 one or go to another one elsewhere in the world. They are always worth it if you can make it to one. Otherwise, you will have to make the trip to Ohio, the very corner of Pennsylvania, Canada, Vermont, or Maine. At least, these areas have the best chances of viewing with the least chances of clouds.

If you are at 91% "totality", you are not in totality at all. You are in a partial total eclipse only - no totality at all. You need to go to where you are in total shadow (100%), not partial shadow (91%). If you are in the area of total shadow, during totality you will need no filters for your camera, phone, or eyes. Otherwise, you will need your solar glasses for your eyes before and after true totality. And unless the glasses are big enough to cover the full front of the camera lens or all of the lenses on your phone, your glasses should not be used for them. There is a chance that the light going around the glasses will cause damage. It is not worth the risk.

If he "experiments" with his 3 stop ND filter and his 1.5 stop polarizer, his shutter and/or sensor will be damaged. If you are using only an 8 stop filter for your camera, you are at risk (Are you really sure that your filter is only 8 stops?). Check B&H Photo, Adorama, Thousand Oaks Optical, and the NASA website and see the minimum is 16.5 stops (in photographic ND terms, 100,000X). If you are using a DSLR, your eyes are at risk. With a mirrorless, at least only your camera will be at risk. When I was choosing what level light reduction using welders glass, I tried ND 16, ND 17, ND 18, and ND 19 darknesses (16 to 19 stops). Although 16 and 17 were too bright for my viewing taste, they were more than acceptable for a camera. The 19 was too dark for my taste. Based off my own experience, if you are only using an 8 stop filter, you are only taking an unnecessary risk of camera damage and/or permanent eye damage. And for the OP, at only 4.5 stops, it would be a very ignorant decision.

You will need a filter of 16.5 stops or more to prevent camera damage or destruction. You will need a filter of 16.5 stops or more (I recommend 18 stops for long viewing times) to stop light and UV rays for using your eyes for viewing. Your filter of maximum 3 stops and polarizer of 1.5 stops will wipeout your camera easily; you are more than 10 stops short of major camera and eye damage. And I seriously doubt that your filters will stop UV rays. Your best bet, this late in the game, is to get welders glass of ND 16 to ND 19 (again, I recommend ND 18). It cuts out the high intensity light and UV rays of welding as well as the light and UV rays of the sun. If you are on the path of totality, during the actual totality no filter will be required. But both before and after totality, damage and/or blindness will occur to camera and/or eyes without a proper filter. There will be some ignorant people blinded this eclipse by not viewing the eclipse properly. It has happened every eclipse so far.