I have the same monitor. I use an X-Rite i1Studio calibration device to calibrate my monitor. I set the desired brightness to 90 Cdn as that setting gives me pretty accurate prints when printing with a Canon Pro 10 printer. If the monitor is a little dark for my other work I increase the brightness by a couple of clicks and reduce by the same number it when I process photos. I recalibrate monthly, although there is very little change month to month.

Try https://arcticexposure.is/about-us/. Skarpi Thrainsson is on w of the owners of the company. He is a fantastic photographer. He was a guide on a Muench trip I took to Iceland a couple of years ago, he is a wonderful guide. I suspect he can put together a trip for you.

You should always make a copy of a JPG and edit the copy. This allows you to save the original and start over if you lose or want to reedit the copy. Every time you save a JPG as a JPG you are compressing an already compressed file an losing some of the image.

I am sorry for suggesting Carbon Copy Cloner. Although it makes exact, easily opened copies, it only works on Macs. It does not run on a windows machine.

I use Carbon Copy Cloner to back up my images from one drive to another. The advantage of using back up software is that I can set it to back up on a schedule, I use daily, and forget it. The back up occurs automatically every day and I do nothing. It does not slow down my computer, but it works.

Digital silver imaging (https://digitalsilverimaging.com) produces very high quality black and white images using traditional black and white chemistry, and high quality photo paper. They also will print color prints in custom sizes. They are very easy to work with and have their own portal for receiving large images.

I have an "R" and I had the same issue until I discovered that I could selective lock some functions. Now I lock the tech screen and only unlock it for a specific purpose. My camera has a lock unlock button. I do not know if the RP has the same button.

I use a pencil eraser. I would never apply any liquid to a lens.

I have shot my Canons while dog sledding at temps around -20. Battery life degrades, but you can restore the battery by simply warming it up. I always use at least two batteries. I keep one next to my body in an inside pocket and one in the camera. When the one in the camera stops working I exchange them and keep shooting. The cold one warms up and I can use without plugging it in and recharging it. Some times I will keep two in my pocket. I have never had a problem.

Capture One is a very good photo editing software and I like it for managing my library. I think is is a better raw converter than light room, and with the latest editions it makes very high quality post processing fairly easy once you learn the program. I believe that C1 will do everything that light room will do except permit direct export into facebook or other social network applications. That type of export is a two step process. However, It is not a pixel editor like Photoshop. I use affinity for the very few times I need a pixel editor, but I cannot remember the last time I used it.

I went from the Canon 9000 to a Canon Pro10. I only use OEM ink and have never had a problem. The Ink is a little pricey, but I do not print a lot so it is manageable. In addition I discovered that when I purchase the ink directly from Canon and purchase a number of different inks at the same time, or a full load of ink, Canon throws in free pro Canon paper. I now have a very large supply of paper. This is a big savings as paper in not cheap and the Canon pro paper is very good.

Check out Bagsunlimited.com. They have mailing envelopes, boxes and tubes. I issue they large cardboard envelopes to mail 13 x 19 prints without any problem. I wrap the prints with baking parchment paper to prevent scratching.

Breakthrough Photography makes excellent filters. They are little pricey, but they are worth it and it is a one time expense. Their web site also has a very good buying guide as well as a free long exposure guide. Their filters are sold by them or via Adorama or B & H.

I do not know how you are moving your images from the card to the camera. However, if you are using a card reader, I had a similar problem in the past with a defective card reader that I replaced. I discovered the problem when I uploaded the images to my computer directly from the camera without any problem.

I continue to find it hard to understand people who want to use manual mode as if it makes them a more professional photographer. When you purchased the 5ds you purchased a sophisticated camera with many advanced features, for its time, including a very accurate matrix metering system. Why are you choosing to ignore this feature. I have owned Canon camera since 1968. My early camera's only had a match needle metering system that is similar to "manual mode". I now shoot with a 5dsr and and EOS R. I generally shoot aperture priority because I want to control the depth of field. I keep an eye on the shutter speed depending on the lens I am using, making sure it is not to slow. I may set the ISO to auto in changing light, but I set an outside limit of IO 1600. This works for me. I shoot manually with studio lights and sometimes with a flash. In the studio I use a hand held meter and generally read the light with the incident meter on.