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Jun 29, 2020 15:23:37   #
senior techie wrote:
Need sound advise. I am 73 years old 5'3" and 130 lbs woman. I have been back packing my camera equipment around the world, until lately of course. There are occasions where I would find it getting a bit difficult to carry 20+ pounds of equipment around all day. I have a Nikon D750 and a number of lenses, the heaviest is my Tamron 70-200. I want to hear all the pros and cons of the Leica Q2. It is quite a leap, financially, but it sounds like a less exhausting way to maximize my love of photography and travel. I know there're occasion where my Nikon will be the way to go, but will I enjoy the ease and comfort of a high end point and shoot.
Need sound advise. I am 73 years old 5'3" an... (show quote)


You should follow your instincts and buy what you really want. If you don't you'll probably regret it! The only advice I have is to spend some time using only a 28mm (or zoom equivalent) lens to see if you can work with just a medium wide angle lens! Since the Leica Q2 is a fixed lens camera you'll have to deal with a single prime lens. Undoubtedly this is a fine camera and will perform magnificently. You should enjoy it!
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Nov 14, 2019 21:09:48   #
dyximan wrote:
Big #/little# squared/2 Is this the simple form


Exactly. I thought about presenting it that way but felt like an example would be more easily understood!
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Nov 14, 2019 15:46:15   #
The number of stops between two different f-stops can be calculated fairly simply. Just take the ratio of the two f-stops. For example 1.8/1.2=1.5, then square the quotient so 1.5^2=2.25. Now divide by 2 to get the number of stops so 2.25/2=1.125. Accordingly the number of stops between f1.4 and f1.8 is .46 and the number of stops between f1.2 and f1.4 is .68. Accounting for rounding, the difference between f1.2 and f1.8 is the sum of the previous stops (.46+.68). Hope this helps.
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May 16, 2018 17:18:58   #
BebuLamar wrote:
I don't shoot B&W so no comment here. As for the color richer in manual mode if I were in the class I would ask him why and how. It could simply be that the meter in his camera is out of whack and to get correct exposure he would have to use manual mode. Of course there are teachers that would say I don't know why but it just work.

I had occasion to ask a technical question and the instructor said he was more artistic than technical so I didn't pursue it any further. It really was a low level event aimed at mostly point and shooters. It was a very friendly environment and I didn't feel the need to be confrontational. The purpose of this post was to verify that my understanding of the b&w and richer colors issues was correct!
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May 16, 2018 16:42:18   #
E.L.. Shapiro wrote:
If you are interested in improving you portraiture, please join us in the "Advanced & Professional Portraiture" section of the UHH forum. It's for all interested members. Just go to "All Sections", scroll down, click on, subscribe and you're in!

I'll check out that section. I am by no means a professional but I'm sure I'll learn plenty.
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May 16, 2018 16:40:57   #
selmslie wrote:
Look under Image Enhancement, Selecting a Picture Control. Monochrome (B&W) is a separate option that only affects the JPEG. You can still get a NEF (raw) at the same time.


Thanks. I found it on page 105 of the manual.
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May 16, 2018 15:45:29   #
selmslie wrote:
Most Nikons allow you to save NEF or JPEG or both. Look in the user manual for the topic Image Quality and Size.


Thanks. I know how to save RAW and jpg but not sure how to make the jpg monochrome at the same time!
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May 16, 2018 14:13:42   #
selmslie wrote:
In fact, he did not say it was BS. Geezer7 just asked for clarification on what he thought he heard.

The only questionable statement was that, "... he also stated that the use of manual results in richer colors." I doubt that this was precisely what the teacher was trying to convey. Several of us commented that a manual or automatic exposure could easily result in the same combination of ISO, aperture and shutter speed. Since the teacher was promoting the use of manual exposure, it's pretty clear that he was referring to informed use of manual exposure.

So far as richer colors are concerned, I already covered that question here.

Jumping to conclusions based on incomplete information is always risky. That's why I suggested, "I would cut the teacher some slack."
In fact, he did not say it was BS. Geezer7 just a... (show quote)

I didn't want to give the impression that I was dissatisfied with the free seminars. In fact the first one gave me a lot of ideas for improving portraits. I simply wanted to get your opinion on b&w methodology and the questionable statement regarding richer colors in manual mode. All in all I was satisfied with the couple of hours spent on sea days when exploring ports was not an option. I do know exactly what was said but it really did not detract from the overall experience.
Thanks for all your comments.
By the way someone stated that I could set my D7100 to display b&w while still saving RAW files. I have searched through the menus and see no setting which would allow this. Any help in this matter would be appreciated.
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May 14, 2018 11:53:18   #
blackest wrote:
To be honest You were being taught about light and color in the 2 seminars. Not a class in how to work your camera.

For the black & white he wanted you to look at the light and shadow and its effect on the portrait.

The second then added color into the mix.

Maybe these were taught the right way , not how to best to operate your camera but how to see.

You can learn how to operate the camera any time but this seems to have concentrated on the 90-95% of photography that matters most and often seems overlooked on this site.
To be honest You were being taught about light and... (show quote)


I agree that we were being taught about light and color. He emphasized b&w portraits and of course checking results in the LCD required shooting in monochrome. I just felt that converting raw to B&W in post could yield better results.
The presenter was one of the onboard photographers and there was no charge for the seminars. Generally as has been speculated, the audience was mostly pretty uninformed so perhaps he was aiming his recommendations at that level!
Thanks for all your comments. The option to shoot raw and jpg in monochrome would be good for evaluating results in camera. I have a D7100 and don't know if that is possible with my camera.
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May 13, 2018 18:32:48   #
CHG_CANON wrote:
Can you still get a refund?

Funny!! Actually the cruise was great and the portrait seminar was very interesting. Just thought that a couple of comments were questionable. No complaints.
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May 13, 2018 17:06:49   #
Linda From Maine wrote:
"Manual results in richer colors" - yep, a head scratcher. Was he talking about sunset shots and setting the exposure darker than the camera's meter suggests?

B&W - if you shoot in raw, you start with a color file and convert in pp. A ton of pro's do this way. A ton is enough to convince me As is the use of awesome editors like Nik Silver Efex. A benefit of setting the jpg style to monochrome - or if camera has a b&w "view," is as a composition aid in seeing the tones, light and shadows while you are learning to do that via brain only.
"Manual results in richer colors" - yep,... (show quote)


I agree. There appears to be much more control in converting to b&w in post. That's why I asked!
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May 13, 2018 17:04:51   #
The issue is the angular speed of the image across the sensor. This is defined as the speed of the object being photographed divided by the distance from the camera to the object. Normally the units would be meters per second, meters and radians. Actually feet and feet per second would also work!
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May 13, 2018 16:44:53   #
I have recently returned from a Caribbean cruise on which I had an opportunity to attend a couple of photo seminars relating to the use of light. The first addressed portraits and the presenter emphasized portraits in black and white. Contrary to what I believe I have heard, the presenter recommended setting the camera to the monochrome mode instead of converting in post. Does this sound right?

The second seminar addressed the use of the manual mode in the camera. I had several SLRs from 1970 to 2010 which were manual so I am comfortable with the manual mode although I tend to use aperture priority and adjust ISO to suit my needs. The presenter emphasized the flexibility available with manual which I can understand. However he also stated that the use of manual results in richer colors. This I do not understand.

I would appreciate any comments regarding these two issues.

Thanks in advance.
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Mar 5, 2018 09:13:47   #
Dredoms wrote:
How do you move the focus point on the D7200? Thanks.

I have the D7100 which is apparently similar to the D7200. To move the focus point set the focus selector lock to the dot (not L) and then move the focus point using the multi selector. In Live View you can return the focus point to the center by pressing the OK button in the middle of the multi selector. Hope this helps.
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Feb 16, 2018 14:02:54   #
Drip Dry McFleye wrote:
Just something to consider: I have toured five countries in Europe. Mostly in the cities all the usual tourist stops along the way. I think you will find that long focal length lenses is not where the emphasis should be. A moderate length zoom will be all that is necessary and the wide end of your lens will get way more use than the long. I like my 24-120 a lot but something a little wider would be even better for indoor shots of cathedrals, museums, etc. Have a great trip!


I agree with this. We toured five countries in Europe last fall and previously trekked in the Alps and found that the wider angle lens was all we needed. I recently bought the M43 Panasonic GM5 (no longer available) and used the 12-32mm lens. There were only a couple of occasions where a longer lens would have been useful. We like to travel very lightly with backpacks so we can carry on our luggage and be very flexible in the cities. We realize that not everyone wishes to be as minimalist but it worked for us.
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