Ugly Hedgehog - Photography Forum
Home Active Topics Newest Pictures Search Login Register
Posts for: steveg48
Page: <<prev 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 ... 28 next>>
May 1, 2019 16:56:50   #
Most people that do long exposures use at least 10 stops. I use both 10 and 16 stop filters. This is for exposures in the 2-5 minute range. The main use is to blur clouds.
Go to
May 1, 2019 16:48:13   #
Gene51 wrote:
This may cause you to rethink the whole need for "level" for pano.

https://petapixel.com/2016/10/27/stitching-panorama-forget-wide-angle-lens-home/

Not only does the camera not need to pan a level line, it doesn't even need to be level at all. All the software needs to see is stitching points. I do hand held panos with my DSLRs about 40% of the time. And I do have a multi-row pano head for when I need critical alignment and no parallax error.


A nodal rail is required to eliminate parallax error for items in foreground

Your link does not show that the camera does not need to be level. The reason for the white space at the top of the stitched image is because the camera wasn’t level. If it had been level you would not have to crop as much. That being said, you did do a good job in making the best of what you had and got a nice image
Go to
Apr 30, 2019 14:21:04   #
kymarto wrote:
You can always go down to 8 bits if you need the filter, but once in 8 bits you can't go back to 16. Well, you can go back but you've lost all the extra data permanent at that point.


Right. Use the filter as the last step in your post-processing.
Go to
Apr 30, 2019 14:13:23   #
Gene51 wrote:
Learning Photoshop is like learning a new foreign language.

I suggest total immersion. Join a local photo club. There will be advanced shooters willing to work with the less advanced.

I suggest Anthony Morganti, Phlearn and others are free and helpful.

Most of challenge in learning Photoshop is learning what can be done in Photoshop. And then finding out that there are at least 15 ways to achieve a result, each with their nuances. You are embarking on a process - it will take a while. I have been using Photoshop since the mid-90's when they made it available for Windows. I still only know about 30% of what it can do. I use it for general image enhancement, fashion-type retouching and image repair and restoration. Otherwise, I could probably get away with knowing only 10% of what it can do.
Learning Photoshop is like learning a new foreign ... (show quote)


Phlearn is good but not free. It is a subscription service. They do have free videos on YouTube
Go to
Apr 25, 2019 16:47:29   #
nadelewitz wrote:
I don't have a G85, but a quick web search revealed this process to enable multiple exposures.

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4016029

Thank you for the response.

I have seen this article but it is not relevant. It describes the process after multi-exposure is selected.
Our problem is that we can’t select multi-exposure because it is grayed out.
Go to
Apr 25, 2019 12:15:47   #
Thanks Bill,
We will try doing what you said. Manual does say it should work in P mode. But will try in A with mechanical shutter. Will get back to you in a few days as friend is out of town.
Steve
Go to
Apr 24, 2019 09:49:38   #
RWebb76 wrote:
I suspect the camera will not bracket in P mode because it will be adjusting aperture and shutter speed from shot to shot. Too many variables. Is it supposed to alter the aperture or the shutter Speed? Try it in A or S priority and it should work.


No.This is multiple exposure-not bracketing. Manual says it will work in P mode.
Go to
Apr 24, 2019 06:30:12   #
Tomfl101 wrote:
With older Nikon cameras like D300 you had to do multiple exposures in RAW. Could that be the issueWith your Fuji?


It's a Panasonic, not Fuji.

We tried raw plus jpeg, and jpeg by itself, but have not tried raw by itself.
Go to
Apr 24, 2019 06:22:42   #
My friend has G85. When trying to select 'Multiple Exposure' in menu it is grayed out.
1. She is in P mode.
2 Raw + jpeg. We tried jpeg only but did not solve problem
3 At bottom of manual p 198 it says
Not available in these cases:•This function is not available in the following cases:–When using [Time Lapse Shot]–When using [Stop Motion Animation]

Neither of these seem to be selected.

Please advise. TIA
Go to
Apr 20, 2019 09:26:38   #
larryepage wrote:
Of all the arguments for saving images as raw files, this is probably the weakest. For one thing, all formats are simply data files that must be converted into images, whether raw or TIFF or JPEG. It's just that almost every one has a viewer to reassemble JPEGs and TIFFs. For another, experience shows that "preprocessing" choices made by the photographer (or the camera, for that matter) are passed along and show in the image and controls as the starting point in LightRoom and similar programs, unless intentionally overwritten by choices made by the person doing the processing or by someone else via preloaded profiles.

I carefully set camera adjustments for best initial results and save both raw images for post processing and JPEGs in case I need or want an immediate image. Sometimes I save TIFF files, if my needs call for that. They can be viewed immediately and can be processed all day long with 16 bits of depth and absolutely no loss

All the photographer's referenced in this discussion worked to get it right out of the camera. Not necessarily for printing, but for whatever was coming next. Adams wrote two books about doing so..."The Camera" and "The Negative." He only wrote one ("The Print") about post processing.

So it's all important. Finishing does not negate taking.

Do what works.
Of all the arguments for saving images as raw file... (show quote)


I don’t believe all processing choices made in the camera are passed to Lightroom. For example, color space in Lightroom is always prophoto, independent of what was set in camera. Also, picture mode set in camera is ignored.
Go to
Apr 20, 2019 07:31:44   #
stanco wrote:
Why distort what the camera sees? .Why not look at what nature display.


If you shoot raw the camera doesn't produce an image. It only produces data which must be converted to an image in a raw converter, according to the photographer's taste.

If you shoot jpeg, you have to set up the camera to tell it how you want it to convert the raw data. There are many settings (white balance, picture mode, noise reduction, etc) which are up to the individual photographer. In creating the jpeg, the camera is making many decisions, some of which you may not agree with. The camera also compresses the data and loses information in the process. Jpegs have a limited color gamut so the colors that your eye saw will not be the same as the ones you see SOOC. Since different photographers will have different settings, SOOC for each will be different. Of course, since lenses are not perfect, they will introduce distortion.
Go to
Apr 14, 2019 08:58:30   #
Rich1939 wrote:
For anyone who is following this post, there is a fantastic “loop trip” in this area that will take about 5- or 6-hours driving time. (Depending on your right foot.)
Starting at Moab travel south on US-191 to UT-46 on the left. This road will take you to Paradox Co, Bedrock Co and then Co #141 just before Naturita Co. Turn left at 141 and go towards Gateway Co. Up to this point you will be traveling in very picturesque, sparsely occupied country that looks like Hollywood designed it. From your turn onto 141 the road follows the San Miguel and Dolores rivers and while the first 10 miles or so are more of what you have been seeing it then starts getting dramatic. You will be driving through red rock canyons that seem to have photo opportunities every few FEET! This scenery continues almost to Gateway. (There is a resort there now, but I have no experience with it.)
From Gateway continue on 141 through some more Hollywood country to Grand Junction. At GJ take I-70 west to the route 128 Cisco exit (about 45 mins). That part is boring, sorry. Once on 128 you will enter an area that reminds you of Monument Valley with many more photo ops. as you follow the Colorado river back to US191 and Moab. (See an earlier post for two web shots)
For anyone who is following this post, there is a ... (show quote)


Hi Rich,
Is it physically easy to get these shots? I don't want to hike and my sense of balance isn't that great. Also, what is best airport to go to? Thanks - Steve
Go to
Apr 11, 2019 14:06:43   #
Pablo8 wrote:
The 2' 10" indicates the time necessary for a good exposure. One would have to set 'B' if you have it on your shutter controls (Usually next to /after 30 seconds) Shutter will stay open on B , as long as the shutter release is held down. A cable release and camera on a tripod are necessary. I do not have a D7100, so cannot confirm the B setting.


When you are in manual exposure mode and you rotate the shutter speed dial toward longer exposures, the next setting after 30 seconds is B.
Go to
Apr 9, 2019 17:22:35   #
speters wrote:
I have no idea what you mean by darken mode, or window pull, never heard of either one!


‘Darken’ is a blending mode. Blending modes are selected in a drop down in the layers panel.
Go to
Apr 4, 2019 14:08:01   #
jradose wrote:
Shooting in live view in broad daylight is almost an impossible task, the sun is so bright, I cannot see the LED screen on my Nikon D750. Trying to shield the screen from the sun is seldom effective. How do those of you who experience the same problem handle it?


On my Nikon D810 I can adjust the LCD brightness in live view by pressing the i button. This can’t be done from the menu. I also figured out that this can’t be done if “exposure preview” is active in live view. Don’t leave the LCD in its brightest setting if you don’t need it to conserve battery life.
Go to
Page: <<prev 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 ... 28 next>>
UglyHedgehog.com - Forum
Copyright 2011-2024 Ugly Hedgehog, Inc.