Sorry, you are wrong. Without a contract, photographer owns the copyright. Copyright happens when you snap the shutter.

The law protects your artwork upon mere creation.

Just ask the copyright office"

“Copyright exists from the moment the work is created.”
— U.S. Copyright Office, FAQ

Edit: This whole mess could and should be avoided with a simple contract. Spell it out and educate all parties involved.

That is not true, especially without a contract. Copyright (the image) versus physical (the paper) are two different things. The holder of the paper cannot do anything and everything they want with it because the image is owned by the copyright holder. Nor can they dictate to the copyright owner the terms.

Try telling the movie studio that you can do whatever you want with their movie just because you purchased the movie. I can sell my copy of the movie, burn it, trash it or give it away....but I cannot copy it or transmit it in any manner that is inconsistent with copyright laws....they own the image.

That happens all the time. When I shoot a wedding, I sell photographs even though I am hired to photography the event. One photograph can and does sell multiple times.

I own the photograph, if someone wants one of my photographs, it's for sell. I certainly am not going to waste my time shooting the same thing over just to get another photography of the same subject....that makes no sense at all (unless the new client is unhappy with the photograph and requests a fresh one.)

It is a mute point now, but I never do photography for hire without a contract. Too many horror stories out there.

Do a google search for color temperature chart. You will notice that light becomes bluer as the temperature is increased. So a blue sky is around 10,000 Kelvin.

Here's a link: http://www.seesmartled.com/kb/choosing_color_temperature.php

A trick I like to use on my D800 and D90 is when the lighting is tricky, go to live view.

1. On the D90, press the LV button.
2. Then press the WB button (right below the menu button)
3. Use the rear command dial to select the WB preset of K (for Kelvin).
4. Use the front command dial to select the temperature setting. 5. As you use the front command dial, watch the monitor and notice the effect the WB has on your scene. Just dial it until you like the display. You can either go back to through the lens or continue with LV.

I would highly recommend shooting in RAW so you can change it in post. The above method gets you extremely close so most of the time you are good to go and capture the mode you want.

BTW, Auto WB has very limited range.

I keep all the PDF manuals on my iPad and iPhone for a fast reference when I need them. I also have several aftermarket reference manuals that provide good reference material too.

When I find a technique I like, I usually jot it down as a electronic note. I find this helps me a lot. Being a retired electrical engineer, I like reference material with me at all times.

Simply because other people will read this thread. That is the value of Google and other Search Engines. This site get's indexed.

We've spent more time talking about the poster's lack of initiative, rather than simply throwing out some starting points.

Some of the folks here have posted excellent links with reference material that will serve others well. While others have not provided any useful info at all.

I did not post the response, but I use use my PocketWizard FFT-5 system to control my lighting in formals and outside shots with my Sekonic L-478DR meter; I set my camera to manual mode. I find I get better control that way (balance my ambient to flash. I can also let the camera set it with iTTL/CLS using the PW FFT-5. When doing this, only benefit with the PW FFT-5 is radio so I don't need line of sight. This really is a mute point with the OP. He needs to play with the system he has by shooting, shooting and more shooting. Especially with digital, you can just delete and reshoot.

When I had a studio, I used PW to control my ratios. I never wanted my camera to set it. The CLS is a good system, but I always wanted to take direct control of my lighting when shooting with multiple flashes. Again, I use a flash meter, back then it was the Sekonic L-608 with a PW transmitter built in.

With the D800e, Nikon seems to balance the flash better than it use to with the D1x, D2x and D90, but I still like to take control of it when I can. I cannot answer for the way the D7000 or other Nikons behaves.

If you are going to shoot more ES, I too would encourage an incident meter. BUT, try to stay away from 10am-4pm shooting as well. If you have too, use reflectors balance the sun and/or flash to overcome the sun.

I like nice overcast days, the sky is a wonderful soft box.

Looks like the couple had fun, that's important. Pay close attention to the surroundings and make sure they are the key focal point.

Especially when Nikon manuals are not known to be the best or easiest to read. Our cameras are complex systems. It is not always intuitive or easy to understand. I appreciate when professionals (and non) are willing to answer questions and mentor others. I've been shooting for close to 43 years, 12 professional. I've seen some amazing advances in technology that has made our jobs/hobby much easier....CLS is just one of them.

I agree with the above poster, keep asking, someone is willing to help.

Regards,
Craig

Yes, that is it. Also from Nikon's site:
http://www.nikonusa.com/en/Nikon-Products/Product/DVD/11484/A-Hands-on-Guide-to-Creative-Lighting-DVD.html

Very nice, I always try to live by that.

Nikon's CLS is an amazing system. Just go slow, set the camera's built in flash in command mode (I usually turn it off and only use it for control) and use one flash in remote (the SB-800 works great). Play with that one flash to see how it responds to the iTTL control. Move the remote flash around your subject to get an idea how it effects your subject. Adjust the flash exposure through the camera's menu system to change the light output and adjust your shutter to change your ambient effect. After you master one flash, setup another flash in another group and start playing with light ratios.

I use the Pocketwizard FFT-5 system with Sekonic's L-478DR light meter. It makes setting up ratios very easy and exact.

Remember, half if not all of the fun of photography is taking pictures and seeing the results.

I have not read any books on Nikon's CLS system, just brochures and the manual(s). I believe Nikon sells a book on it though. There some very good youtube videos on the subject. But hey, it is very easy once you play with it. There are many books on how to setup kicker lights, main lights, backlights, hair lights, etc. Again, there are a ton of youtube videos on the subject....all free.

Regards,
Craig

Page 148 in the D90's manual has a brief description on how to do it. I use Adobe's Lightroom 4 to tether my cameras.