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Oct 18, 2017 13:04:36   #
Go on Flicker and search for that 1Ds camera and you will see that it is very capable of taking some great photos. Mate it with some good Glass and it is a great learning platform. I think you have made a great choice...

Best,
Todd Ferguson

gary8803 wrote:
Thank you for the advice. This camera was my best opportunity to get in a full frame camera, I know its outdated by todays standards. I feel it will be a good learning tool. I'm retired and this is a new hobby that I can focus my time on. I also have a used 7d canon that I use for birds and wildlife. I want to use these older bodies to learn the basic technique before investing in a new modern DSLR. My new focus will be some good glass. I will set my camera to factory setting that is good advice I'm reading the manual now.
Thank you for the advice. This camera was my best... (show quote)
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Oct 18, 2017 13:02:05   #
Isn't that how 1 in 2 marriages end in divorce...

Grand wrote:
Listen to your heart(Nikon)
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Oct 18, 2017 12:56:04   #
My first DSLR was a Canon Digital Rebel in 2002. I didn't find it a learning challenge but perhaps that was because I had shot film for nearly 30 years at that point and perhaps more so because I had worked in computers and with digital files for over 15 years at that point. I guess it all depends on what your experience is an how you like to learn. Some are just take it and go shoot and others what to study the manual for a week before they turn it on. My daughter bought a Canon starter kit camera a few years ago and I base some of my observations on what I saw her experience. I guess I am just not a fan of the Creative Modes as I think they can be more of a crutch than just learning the basics of exposure which should serve you well in any shooting situation.

Best,
Todd Ferguson

Peterff wrote:
In general I think this is good advice about how one learns - or how different people learn. I agree that creative modes can be confusing from the learning perspective, I don't think I've ever used any of the ones on any of my Canon digital cameras, but that doesn't mean that something like a Canon Rebel kit is a bad thing. Like you I learned when cameras were simpler, I may have even started earlier, with fully manual cameras, but even the most basic Canon DSLRs, mirrorless, bridge, or P&S cameras usually have all the main controls for exposure. I've just looked at my latest Canon DSLR and discovered it doesn't even have creative modes, I've had it for over two months and had to check to find that they weren't there!

For myself, even though I knew what all the features did from prior experience, my first digital camera was quite a learning curve, even though the Canon terminology has remained consistent from around 1976 when the AE-1 was introduced. Any modern camera has many layers of complexity, and in some ways the pro models can be even more confusing given the number of options that can be set, even though they lack the automated creative modes.

At the end of the day, learning the basics of photography, what effect they have upon an image, and how to control them on any camera is the most fundamental thing. This can be done with most modern cameras - not so much smart phones - but the basic principles need to be mastered if one wants to take control of the images created.

An interesting anecdote (to me) from recent history was related to the recent California wildfires. Although San Francisco wasn't affected by the fires directly we had some serious air quality problems, sunsets were spectacular - a bit like the skies over Mordor or from Edvard Munch's 'The Scream' painting - so many people wanted to capture the scene. My wife who was traveling home on public transport ended up with people having to get off the street car. Lots of people immediately got out their smart phones to take pictures of the sky, and the overwhelming (overheard) comment was that the smart phones couldn't capture the image people could see in their minds. Since she is a photographer, some would say a beginner, she just stayed silent while thinking "Yep". She uses her smart phone quite a bit, but was thinking I need my old Nikon SLR or my Canon DSLR for this. She didn't have those of course, did have her smart phone, and just decided not to bother.
In general I think this is good advice about how o... (show quote)
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Oct 18, 2017 12:00:25   #
Less Mirror perhaps...
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Oct 18, 2017 10:06:08   #
machia wrote:
Thanks to all here . I think I'll just use a CPL . Makes sense !


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Oct 18, 2017 10:00:02   #
Facebook has a few interesting Johanna James but none that I could see as being you...
It might be best to just post a photo or two here...

Best,
Todd Ferguson
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Oct 18, 2017 09:53:45   #
I find it interesting that people so often recommend a kit to start out with in photography.
I guess the kit can be seen as a good package value for the beginner. Yet I think all the different Creative Modes, as Canon calls them, can be confusing and somewhat of a distraction from real learning for the beginner. Maybe it is just in part because I learned photography in the mid 1970s when cameras were simpler. Perhaps I would recommend getting an older pro level body and a nifty 50 lens as a easier way to learn about the exposure triangle and get some decent photos too. Some will say that a kit camera is as good or better than say a 10 year old Pro level camera. But I am not sure I agree with that totally. The newer kit camera may have more megapixels, but the Pro level camera was the best in the world at that time and can sometimes do things that the kit camera is just not capable of doing. I think a Canon 1D Mark III for $500 and a $100 50mm lens can take some fine photos still. Or perhaps a 5D Mark II and a 50mm lens.

Best,
Todd Ferguson
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Oct 18, 2017 09:21:17   #
The previous owner may have set it for Back Button Focus which takes the focus function away from the shutter release button and moves it to another button on the rear of the camera, often the AF button. Normally the camera would come from the factory with the shutter release focusing with a half push. The camera will also do the exposure metering during the half press of the shutter button. Fully depressing the shutter release takes the photo.

You may what to look at doing a reset of all the many camera parameters to factory defaults so that you have a known baseline to start learning the camera's features and controls. This after all is how it would be delivered new. I still have a 1D Mark III which is from a similar era and is 10mp. It is a nice camera but it doesn't get as much use as in the past. Enjoy your new camera...

Best,
Todd Ferguson
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Oct 18, 2017 09:00:18   #
rook2c4 wrote:
I think the beginner is better served sticking to JPG and focusing on the more important aspects of photography, such as composition, exposure and coming up with interesting ideas. Learning how to process RAW files can come later, after the beginner has mastered the basics. The less the beginner is overwhelmed, the easier the learning process, and the less likely the beginner will lose interest and give up. Besides, if the camera is set to RAW file output, does one really need the camera to spit out JPG files as well? Having both the camera and the photographer process and convert the same images independently seems a bit redundant to me.
I think the beginner is better served sticking to ... (show quote)


Actually it might be smartest for the beginner to shoot both RAW and JPEG if the camera is capable of that option. JPEG for now and RAW for the future when they develop a better understanding and the ability to edit images to be better. Storage space is cheap and the money and time many people put into photography can be quite a lot. To me it just makes good sense to shoot both as a beginner. if not needed the images can always be deleted later but if not captured they can not be used later, sometimes years later.

Best,
Todd Ferguson
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Oct 18, 2017 08:51:20   #
[quote=wteffey]Visit a local camera shop? Good luck. Ocala FL has a Best Buy, with a very modest selection. The times I have wandered through the camera section there was no one, Best Buy employee, or potential customer, in sight. I walked over to the computer department and asked that sales person to page someone to the camera shop. I never heard the page and no one ever showed up. The nearest dedicated camera shop I have heard of is in Orlando, about 100 miles from Ocala.[/quote

Hard to find a good brick and mortar shop in most places these days. Even the big box stores mostly have lower end DSLRs and point and shoot cameras. The other thing is that these local shops and employees can have their favorites just like people on this forum. Best to do your own research and learn yourself unless you are in a super hurry to buy something. This is the process I used 40 years ago to buy my first SLR. If you spend $600 for a kit and then learn you need something better or different then don't be afraid to make a change provided you can afford it. If you are going in at $5,000 then it is better to be a little more sure about what you are buying and why.

Best,
Todd Ferguson
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Oct 18, 2017 08:44:50   #
Haydon wrote:
You answer requires more detail just like the OP unfortunately. You listed a car manufacturer and not the car :)




More information on the budget of the OP is key as to making any kind of meaningful recommendations.
The recommendations will vary based on budget. Personally I think professional or advanced consumer cameras are actually easier to
learn to use that the consumer cameras with a bunch of programmed modes. Learn the exposure triangle and 3 to 4 modes of shooting are fine.

Best,
Todd Ferguson
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Oct 16, 2017 15:51:55   #
PHRubin wrote:
I was going to suggest a +2 diopter so you still have adjustment range with the built in dial. However, having one that matches your eyes leaves the camera near zero adjustment! I'm just getting confused about + vs -.


I have just the standard adjustable diopter on my Canon and I can adjust to see the display just fine with that when wearing my contacts. I sometimes need reading glasses to see menu items on the rear screen though. I think the reading glasses are a +2 or perhaps a bit more. I just buy the $4.95 ones at Home Depot and they are fine for the money. I had a pair of no line bifocals that I could wear with my contacts and I think they cost $400+. They had a coating on the lens and it got scratched up badly after a year or so, even with little use. Last time at the eye place I asked about replacement lens and they quoted me $250 plus. I told them to forget it... Maybe I need a new eye place.

Anyway I would think the OP saying he was looking for the -3 he would basically zero out with that. Then he would still have the built in adjustment that he could use for further adjustment. Canon seems to offer a few of these different Diopters. He could talk to Canon or B&H or do more research I guess.
I was just going on what I thought he was looking to get. Hopefully he gets it worked out to his satisfaction.

Best,
Todd Ferguson
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Oct 16, 2017 09:44:15   #
CHG_CANON wrote:
Refer to pages 119 - 126 of the 80D User Manual. Your 300 f/4L and 2x extender is a group H combination with AF via only the camera's center point.




The newer Canon camera manuals all have this listing of lens focus system compatibility...
Download an electronic version and it is easy to search the manual...

Best,
Todd Ferguson
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Oct 16, 2017 09:40:01   #
I think this will work for you from B&H Photo website...


Canon Dioptric Adjustment Lens EG (-3) for Select Canon EOS Cameras B&H # CADALEG3 MFR # 2198B001

I just searched for Canon Dioptic on their website...

Best,
Todd Ferguson

AndyP73 wrote:
Hello All,

I'm getting back into photography after some years' absence and have noticed that my eyesight isn't what it used to be...

I am shortsighted, -3 in each eye, and I usually wear contact lenses.

With contacts, my long distance vision is great. However, close up stuff, which I would normally see clearly, is a little blurred. For reading and so on I usually remove them, or sometimes stick a pair of cheap magnifying reading glasses over them.

Now, I like the idea of wearing contacts for photography, as it allows the eye to get closer to the viewfinder than glasses. However, that problem about close up things being blurry remains. With no dioptric correction in the viewfinder the data along the bottom of the image is blurry (this is on a Canon Eos). By winding the dioptric wheel as far as it will go in the '+' direction I can get it almost perfect... but not quite.

The '+' direction is the opposite direction to my -3 prescription of course, as I am wearing contacts and presumably the things are making me artificially long-sighted rather than my natural short-sighted.

Would a Canon dioptric adjustment lens improve things further? I'm not far off, so I would have thought that one more notch on the plus side would do it. So would that be a +1 lens? And does anybody know where the best place to go hunting for these is? My Canon 50D is not longer manufactured, and a quick look at the Canon website didn't bring any joy.
Hello All, br br I'm getting back into photograph... (show quote)
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Oct 16, 2017 06:17:07   #
My 10 year old 1D Mk III allows the linking of the spot meter to the AF point and up to 8 spot meter readings to be taken as a group. So Canon has had this on the 1 series since at least 2007.

Best,
Todd Ferguson

davidrb wrote:
Actually, it is separating the two. Few cameras are able to do that. The 1-Dx allows you to move both the metering point AND the focus point. Having both stuck in the center is a "negative" in my opinion, this allows much more freedom in composition.
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