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May 14, 2019 14:01:57   #
digit-up wrote:
So...I’m asking for any and all tips on the use of “Affinity”. And it is great not to be bothered with ANY monthly/yearly payment. Any POINTERS will be much appreciated. RJM


I think the Affinity Photo Workbook is fabulous! It has lessons and downloadable images with which to practice. It is well worth the cost of the book. You will learn almost everything you will ever need.

Also check out the 200+ videos on the Affinity Forum.

I stopped all my subscription including Office 360, Adobe CC, and Microsoft Office. LibreOffice covers it all.

Good luck learning the Affinity Photo. It's a great program.
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May 14, 2019 10:20:12   #
Resqu2 wrote:
I do most all my photography outside, natural light stuff and always with my 70-200 f/2.8 lens. Saturday morning I shot a 5k race and it turned out great, all the pics were spot on, seems like my 5D couldn’t miss a shot. The gal that put the race together ask if I was available later that day to shoot a gender reveal so I though why not. Got there when ask and the room was basically white, like everything was white from the walls to the ceiling to the tables and decorations. The room was full of Hugh windows so tons of light on top of the white. My go to lens was to long of course so I grabbed my 24-105 f/4 lens and it seems like the shots with more than one person in it just wasn’t in focus. I tried several different settings and even tried auto but was never happy with a single shot. I’d like to had more time to do test shots but it just wasn’t there. I do shoot raw but you can’t recover out of focus. By the way, this wasn’t a paid job, just trying to help a group of friends that I run with.

Any advice on shooting in a room like I described?
I do most all my photography outside, natural ligh... (show quote)


What the hell is a gender reveal?
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May 8, 2019 14:27:38   #
John Howard wrote:
I have been thinking about this for a while. I shoot mostly landscape and structures. I moved from D810 to D850 last year. I wonder if going from 45 to say, 50 mp on a larger sensor would noticeably improve IQ. My skill level is pretty good. I get sharp images, well exposed and print large with good results. I saw this DxO report on Fb. ( https://l.facebook.com/l.php?u=https%3A%2F%2Fphotorumors.com%2F2019%2F05%2F07%2Fpanasonic-lumix-dc-s1r-camera-tested-at-dxomark%2F&h=AT1trvFNxNiuWRPk6kWM-RcqvwXXB-fNJiwdAbXC7uDik_OuED5JXYq0ezP-NJod0a-fqVvNFFTgtVkIenTTke0beMQvzaDV26iZLX3iexLXI_PYqisNQeNPGRDFLkU&s=1 ). I am surprised to see the results and that the the only medium format in this test is only slightly better. I just sold an extra car and so the gas attack is working. Do any of the medium format shooters here have a view?
I have been thinking about this for a while. I sho... (show quote)


Going from 45MP to 50MP gets you nothing as far as megapixels is concerned. In fact to see any appreciable difference you need about four times 45MP. You need at least 2 times on the vertical side and 2 times on the horizontal side to see any difference in quality. Now that is not considering that a medium format sensor might have better high ISO quality. That is- less noise.
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May 6, 2019 12:40:22   #
iamimdoc wrote:
Is their a section on UHH dedicated to Affinity (or software processing) for very specific questions? I can’t find one so far.

Thanks


Go to the affinity Photo forum...https://forum.affinity.serif.com/index.php?/topic/10119-official-affinity-photo-desktop-video-tutorials-200/
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May 3, 2019 14:48:20   #
avemal wrote:
Heard Yongnuo YN685 is good. Any suggestions or comments? Want to stay under $125.00


I have four of these flashes. The only problem I have had is only one will AUTO ZOOM the flashhead.
Maybe a firmware upgrade would cure that problem, but so far I have not missed the AUTO ZOOM feature.
It's a great flash otherwise. I use it on my D850 mostly.
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May 3, 2019 14:26:37   #
fotoman150 wrote:
I like color photos with dark, rich colors and I adjust them so in PP.

When I convert to black and white and try different settings I just can’t make it look as good as other people’s black and white even when I look at YouTube videos and use presets. I just really don’t like black and white but some people can do it really well and it’s acceptable.

Same thing for that light and airy look. Sometimes I think it looks good for weddings. I try that in camera and in PP and it looks like s**t. It just looks overexposed when I do it. Although I saw one person’ light and airy that was so overexposed you could barely tell there was an image in the photo and I felt it was way over done.

And about half the time everyone else’s photography looks better than mine. Even when I get a lot of compliments from my clients and friends.

It’s like I’m my own worst critic. Every so often I create a shot that I’m really proud of.

Does anyone else have these feelings?
I like color photos with dark, rich colors and I a... (show quote)


Perhaps you are not adjusting the colors individually to get the right look you want. I hope you are not just reducing saturation, because that is not the best way to get a B&W image. You should be adjusting red, green, blue, cyan, yellow, and magenta separately to get the individual tones you want.

I, too, am critical of my own work. That's why I don't post in photo contests unless the photo is so good that I have a chance of winning.
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Apr 10, 2019 10:22:09   #
Taz1 wrote:
Recommendations from this group helped immensely on my settings for baseball last weekend, at least the daytime shots. They came out great. However, struggling with the night shots. I have a new 70-200 2.8 Nikkor lens for my D7500. It has a lot of settings on the lens itself and I haven't gotten much out of the brochure that came with the lens. Any suggestions on the settings (camera/lens). I have been shooting in Manual or shutter priority, at 2.8, auto iso, with a ss at 1,200 to 1,600, sometimes dipping down to 1,000 since the histogram is showing much too dark. I have tried using the exposure compensation from .3 to .7. Still getting really dark pics. Definitely noise, but was hoping to get some settings that would either take care of the noise or the darkness, and thought I could worry about the other in post processing. Usually shooting the third baseman, pitcher or batter. Don't go to shooting the outfield. Thanks in advance.
Recommendations from this group helped immensely o... (show quote)


Exposure compensation only affects the metering when in manual mode. It does not change your exposure. Reset it back to 0.0. What is the Maximum ISO setting? You can change that.

Also, 1/1000s should be OK. I've used that successfully for Minor league BB.

Good luck.
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Apr 4, 2019 23:16:41   #
bleirer wrote:
Can you explain why one would choose a 1.4x extender instead of a 2x extender? Especially if it is a zoom being extended. Is there a huge cost in image quality between the two or are there other reasons?


First off, you loose two stops of light with the 2.0X and one stop with the 1.4X. Secondly, the 2.0X also produces softer images. The quality may not be good enough for your needs. You have to decide whether the loss of quality is OK, or not..
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Apr 4, 2019 23:07:49   #
Bill_de wrote:
I read it has something to do with a communication difference between the AF system (screw drive) and the AF-s / AF-p lenses.

I don't think it is brand specific. It won't work with my AF Nikkor 105 micro either.

--


Make sure you turn AF off before image stacking. You may have to be in manual mode also.
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Mar 31, 2019 11:56:34   #
srt101fan wrote:
Many folks here say or imply that getting the "correct" exposure is a must if you want to get good images. Many will add that you have to shoot in "manual" to get control of the camera and get that "correct" exposure. I'm wondering what message this sends to newcomers.

Yes, you should try to get the exposure as close to "perfect" in the camera.

Yes, there are difficult lighting situations that can cause the camera's light meter to give you readings that may be wrong for what you want. But, let's face it, changing exposure is just a matter of letting in more or less light and/or changing the ISO. The light meters in modern cameras are pretty darn good. And if the lighting is squirrelly, you can make the proper up or down adjustments using exposure compensation if you're in one of the auto modes. And you have a fair amount of control in post-processing, particularly if you're shooting RAW.

I don't mean to resuscitate the Manual vs. semi-auto modes debate. I'm just wondering if there is too much of a mystique being attached to getting the "proper" exposure. So how important is it to "nail" the exposure settings? Aren't there more important, or at least equally important considerations such as focus, depth of field, etc.?
Many folks here say or imply that getting the &quo... (show quote)


If you take a look at the last 4 or 5 issues of Professional Photographer Magazine, you will find almost all of the exposures are "under exposed". That is, if you looked at the histogram for these cover shots, you would have almost no whites on the right side. Perhaps the photographer exposed to the right (ETTR) to get the whites almost up against the right side of the histogram and then decreased exposure in post production. That, to me, may be the most sensible way to expose to make sure you have all the detail in the darker tones that you want. Does that make sense?
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Mar 16, 2019 09:46:22   #
larryepage wrote:
I believe that this is a clip designed to assist in cable management. Each Nikon camera that I have bought has come with one or more of them. This one is a bit more complex design. I've not yet sat down to figure out how to use it.


It plugs into the USB port on the side of the camera.

Thanks for asking. I never tried before to figure it out.


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Mar 15, 2019 14:28:40   #
Imagemine wrote:
I am mostly an urban & street photographer don't have much experience with wildlife. Can anyone tell me a good ISO for flying birds in cloudy conditions without getting noise I'm using a Nikon d500


I would use AUTO ISO with a maximum set at about 6400 or 8000. You want a shutter speed of about 1/1000s or faster.

Watch videos by Steve Perry. He has some good videos on settings for BIF and nature photography in general.
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Mar 7, 2019 10:57:40   #
Pablo8 wrote:
You've been to this show 23 times, and still don't know what equipment works best?


My thoughts exactly.
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Feb 27, 2019 09:58:34   #
Los-Angeles-Shooter wrote:
I was contacted by a guy who likes my photos, especially the fetish photos with the girl in prison outfits, manhandled, and under duress. And many shots quite explicit. He wants me to do a custom shoot along these themes. The 'custom' aspect would be particular odd clothing and accessories on the girl. He says that although he'd be paying, he's fine with me posting some of the photos. There'd be no post work and he'd like copies of the whole shoot. Still photos only and I'd shoot both raw (~12 meg) and high-quality JPGs (~5 meg) on each shot. This gig would likely lead to future gigs using different girls.

Model, props, and misc. would total about $200 for a 3-hour shoot. I'd shoot about an estimated 200 photos, with plenty of variety. I would deliver the photos on a thumb drive or via the web. And he'd probably pay me via PayPal.

I'd appreciate any suggestions on what to quote him. Also would appreciate any other comments or advice.
I was contacted by a guy who likes my photos, espe... (show quote)


What makes you think you will be paid? I suggest you get a cash retainer.
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Feb 22, 2019 20:44:35   #
jerryc41 wrote:
This type of computation drives a friend of mine crazy, and he refuses to accept the correct answer.


Multiplication and division is always done before addition and subtraction.

Answer is 12.
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